Originally posted by gmustangt
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Never had a functinal problem with a Perko system 8 years working on boats they are fitted as an optional flush kit with an external hose fitting on the transom by several manufactures including Nautique Mastercraft Malibu and several others. I have had a hose tail break on one out of a late 90s Moomba when I had to remove a hose off it but that was brittle plastic after close to 30yrs use.
Also look at the Indmar flush/strainer solution as it does both functions
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Here is 1 more solution for the GT40 PCM that should work for others if you adjust the correct cooling hose sizes to your application.
I made my own all brass raw water cooler fitting. It is a 3/4" pipe brass T. The straight throughs are 3/4" pipe to 1" barbed hose adapters. The T is 3/4" pipe to garden hose. Install this between the strainer assembly and hull raw water pickup. You need a garden hose male plug for the T when on the lake. I made the plug with a male garden hose to female 3/4" pipe adapter and 3/4" pipe plug.
One installed and clamps tightened......
Attach the hose and turn it on wide open. The water will run out the bottom hull pickup until you get suction from the raw water pump once the engine is cranking.
I've revved to about 2500 rpm without the hose collapsing.
I bought all the parts from McMaster.com for $60. They deliver overnight to me in San Diego.
Hope that helps someone. If needed I can post the McMaster part numbers. Let me know.
Sent from my iPhone using PLT NautiqueLast edited by DW SD; 10-25-2016, 02:22 PM.
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These are the parts I used, below.
Note 1 - I only used one of 70514T44 (this is the T for the garden hose connection)
Note 2 - All parts are brass, except the thread sealant tape.
Note 3 - The last two items are just to make the male plug.
Note 4 - in my case, I wanted to be able to thread a garden hose in easier than reaching down in the engine bay. I added a 5' high temp garden hose extension from McMaster and routed that behind the seat in to the starboard rear locker. When I'm ready to flush, I pull that hose up and out and attach the garden hose fresh water feed. That was another $18. This effectively makes the T 5' longer. :-)
Note 5 - there is no need for low pressure regulator, etc. I've had this setup on two boats now and it works great. I like brass vs. plastic. Less likely to crack at an inopportune time and starve the engine of cooling water.1 70815T44 Brass Garden Hose to Pipe Swivel Fitting, 3/4" GHT Female X 3/4 NPT Female, Packs of 2 1
Pack1 0 10.28
Per Pack10.28 2 50785K283 Medium-Pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/4 Pipe Size, Female X Male X Female Tee with Thread Sealant 1
Each1 0 20.17
Each20.17 3 5346K69 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting, 1" Hose ID, 3/4 NPTF Male End, Packs of 2 1
Pack1 0 12.23
Per Pack12.23 4 6802K11 Military Grade Pipe Thread Sealant Tape, 14 yd L X 1/2" W, .0032" Thick, 0.7 G/CC Density 1
Each1 0 2.24
Each2.24 5 73605T93 Brass Garden Hose to Pipe Rigid Fitting, 3/4" GHT Male X 3/4 NPT Female, Packs of 1 1
Pack1 0 4.46
Per Pack4.46 6 50785K521 Medium-Pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/4 Pipe Size, Hollow Hex-Head Plug 1
Each1 0 4.90
Each4.90
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Jul 2003
- 2908
- San Francisco, CA
- Current 2005 SV 211, due for upgrade! GS22 or GS24 perhaps? Previous
For the last 35 years every boat I have owned (15+ boats) get the T between raw water and strainer. No worries about hose pressure since the water just pours out the bottom of the boat. Fire it up and it pulls water in just like it was on the lake. I do have a fake a lake for times when I might work on a friends boat. If you get in and out of the boat while it is running the boat bouncing or vibrating can knock it off causing the boat to run dry. I've had the dry run fake a lake fail situation happen several times. Listen to your exhaust note while running on a trailer. If it gets loud you are probably running dry. Just pay attention and you should have few issues.
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