Replacement keypads, PME box, etc.

[Fast351]

So I had to get towed off the lake the other day. Keypad in the boat quit working. The boat actually wouldn't shut off when I hit the stop button, so I killed it with the switch under the dash (which was probably a bad idea) and then the boat wouldn't start again. Disconnected the battery, reconnected, nothing. Tore the dash apart, measured the 12 and ground going to the keypad, and power was there. Plugged it back in, and VIOLA, we have ignition.

That Deutsch connector on the keypad is a pretty high grade connector, so it leads me to believe that's probably not the issue, and something is probably hiding in the weeds getting ready to bite me in the ***. I've read the keypad bypass thread, and that seems simple enough for a "limp home" solution, understanding that the bilge/nav/anc lights won't work.

I understand that replacement keypads are available, but is CC actually still making these, or is this NOS? If so, it seems like a matter of time before that stock runs out.

That said, has anyone ever tried to figure out what the signal is riding on the green/orange wires? I'm a veteran electrical engineer and deal with microprocessors/comms/etc every day. Seems to me like this is probably a serial protocol, diffferential, and multidrop (since the wiring diagrams don't identify left/right keypad, and the plugs are the same). Probably 422 or 485. Has anyone every sniffed it with a scope?

Knowing what this is might be a really useful piece of info, just in case someone wanted to manufacture replacement keypads, or diagnose keypads, or say do something wacky like use a serial to bluetooth converter and control your boat from a smartphone.

I will probably put a scope on mine when I haul it out for the winter, but I was just wondering if anyone has ever done anything like this before....

[t.franscioni]

Not an electrical engineer but very interested in what you find and hoping you can follow up with your results and an explaination of how these keypads work. I think they are still manufacturing them but no longer are painting them probably because the demand is just not there for each individual color so they just come unpainted as a one size fits all. I ordered a set and went and had paint matched and will spray them with all my other dash guages back to the original silver color that came on my year model. Perhaps just a matter of time before the demand becomes so low that the price has to go ever further through the roof to justify manufacturing these keypads or just stop manufacturing them all together....

[Donbayers]

So I had to get towed off the lake the other day. Keypad in the boat quit working. The boat actually wouldn't shut off when I hit the stop button, so I killed it with the switch under the dash (which was probably a bad idea) and then the boat wouldn't start again. Disconnected the battery, reconnected, nothing. Tore the dash apart, measured the 12 and ground going to the keypad, and power was there. Plugged it back in, and VIOLA, we have ignition.

That Deutsch connector on the keypad is a pretty high grade connector, so it leads me to believe that's probably not the issue, and something is probably hiding in the weeds getting ready to bite me in the ***. I've read the keypad bypass thread, and that seems simple enough for a "limp home" solution, understanding that the bilge/nav/anc lights won't work.

I understand that replacement keypads are available, but is CC actually still making these, or is this NOS? If so, it seems like a matter of time before that stock runs out.

That said, has anyone ever tried to figure out what the signal is riding on the green/orange wires? I'm a veteran electrical engineer and deal with microprocessors/comms/etc every day. Seems to me like this is probably a serial protocol, diffferential, and multidrop (since the wiring diagrams don't identify left/right keypad, and the plugs are the same). Probably 422 or 485. Has anyone every sniffed it with a scope?

Knowing what this is might be a really useful piece of info, just in case someone wanted to manufacture replacement keypads, or diagnose keypads, or say do something wacky like use a serial to bluetooth converter and control your boat from a smartphone.

I will probably put a scope on mine when I haul it out for the winter, but I was just wondering if anyone has ever done anything like this before....

What ever happened here? I'm fighting some problem with keypad or the fuse box

Thanks

[03SANTE]

To further this question, if you buy a replacement keypad does the master code unique to the boat stay the same or is it something built into the keypad...therefore changing with a new keypad? Not having issues with mine but running out of things to do during this isolation and it has been in the back of my mind.

[functionoverfashion]

To further this question, if you buy a replacement keypad does the master code unique to the boat stay the same or is it something built into the keypad...therefore changing with a new keypad? Not having issues with mine but running out of things to do during this isolation and it has been in the back of my mind.

Well, I may be able to answer this question for you soon. I've been considering buying a keypad for my '03 as a spare while they're available, and was basically waiting for a discount code to use. The other day I ordered some other stuff from NautiqueParts and pulled the trigger on a spare keypad while I was already paying for shipping, and used the generic PND discount. Call me crazy, but I intend to keep this boat for a long time. I'm sure I'll use the keypad eventually. Meanwhile I think I will put in a bypass as a backup for an on-lake failure, just in case.

tl/dr - when I get my new keypad, I will plug it in and see what happens. However, I don't know what my master code is, nor do I have a code now. But there may be documentation with the keypad that will be illuminating. I'll let you know.

[Fast351]

Mine is still working. The only thing on mine that's occasionally flaky is the 1 button when it's cold (~32 degrees). I did reprogram my keypad to have two 2 digit codes that don't use the same buttons. So if you have 1-2 and 3-4, if one of the buttons croaks you can still start the boat with the other code.

If I remember right, new keypads come with a blank master code that you need to punch in the first time you use it.

[03SANTE]

tl/dr - when I get my new keypad, I will plug it in and see what happens. However, I don't know what my master code is, nor do I have a code now.

FYI when I bought my boat I was the third owner and second didn't know the master code. I called the Nautique customer service number and with my hull ID number they were quickly able to look up the original code and it worked!

...now if I could just get the f'ing FCC off. I'm thinking the filter could be from 2003.

[functionoverfashion]

FYI when I bought my boat I was the third owner and second didn't know the master code. I called the Nautique customer service number and with my hull ID number they were quickly able to look up the original code and it worked!

...now if I could just get the f'ing FCC off. I'm thinking the filter could be from 2003.

Interesting, I figured they'd be reluctant to hand that information out. But maybe I'll try that... in a few months.

Oh, the FCC. Yes, it can be such a pain, especially if it's been on for a long time.

[Chrisrog]

I’m interested in this as well. My horn doesn’t work...no voltage at the horn end of the wires. I’d like to find out how to isolate the problem.....I suspect the keypad button.

[SilentSeven]

.... and pulled the trigger on a spare keypad while I was already paying for shipping, and used the generic PND discount. Call me crazy, but I intend to keep this boat for a long time. I'm sure I'll use the keypad eventually. ....

This is an interesting thought. Will the keypads go the way of the faria box? $359 for a backup before discount. Could be really smart....but ouch. :/

...... I did reprogram my keypad to have two 2 digit codes that don't use the same buttons. So if you have 1-2 and 3-4, if one of the buttons croaks you can still start the boat with the other code.

This seems super smart. Plan to do this....

[functionoverfashion]

I feel like even if I wanted to replace the keypad (eventually, in the event of a failure) with nice switches, it'd be a few hundred in parts and then a ton of work too. ~$300 ish seems like money well spent to me, especially with the history of proprietary electronic parts going NLA. I'm looking at you, GT-40 ECU, among others.

I got the bypass installed today and it works... at least it turns on the fuel pump and bumps the starter. I'm not ready to run the engine yet, but I will test again at that time.

[scottb7]

I’m interested in this as well. My horn doesn’t work...no voltage at the horn end of the wires. I’d like to find out how to isolate the problem.....I suspect the keypad button.

Couldn't their be a short-circuit somewherein between the keypad and the horn end wires? Have you tested the keypad horn button with a multimeter?

[Chrisrog]

I haven't taken the keypad out of the dash because I don't know how it works yet. The wiring diagram doesn't give any indication of what to expect from the keypad when the horn button is pressed. I presume with the keypad ignition system, the signal from the keypad is digitally coded in some way and the circuit box turns that signal into a voltage to operate the horn? Or is the horn button really just a momentary switch on the wiring harness? If so, which two leads from the wiring harness should give me continuity when the horn button is pressed?

[SilentSeven]

I feel like even if I wanted to replace the keypad (eventually, in the event of a failure) with nice switches, it'd be a few hundred in parts and then a ton of work too. ~$300 ish seems like money well spent to me, especially with the history of proprietary electronic parts going NLA. I'm looking at you, GT-40 ECU, among others.

No argument with your logic...just hate to drop the cash. :/

[functionoverfashion]

I presume with the keypad ignition system, the signal from the keypad is digitally coded in some way and the circuit box turns that signal into a voltage to operate the horn?

There are only four wires coming out of the back of the keypad, so I presume you are correct. The wires coming out of the breaker panel are regular old 12V+ for the most part (I didn't test them all, but this is where I got the Ignition and Start circuits).