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I've purchased the kit (RK107025A) to replace the pro-tec ignition with the mallory distributor for my '93 Ski Nautique. She's been a great boat- one owner, me. The instructions are pretty vague and there are no images other than a schematic. I found one post that I believe will clear up the questions I had on wiring. What I'd like to see are some photos of the kit installed-ie where is the ballast mounted? Where is the best place to mount the coil? What's the best way to mount the plate that replaces the pro-tech that all parts fit and the black cover can be installed. Thanks for any assistance! Looking forward to her running solid again!
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I just spent about 2 days replacing the pro tec ignition system on my 1994 Sport Nautique. The pro tech lasted 28 years/710 hours on my pro boss 5.8 HO engine. It was actually failing for a while with low spark but finally 2 cylinders stopped firing.
To save a few others from the WIRING ERRORS in the Nautique Parts replacement kit, the below procedure and recommendations are provided and are only for the 1994 5.8 HO 285 HP engine:
Be careful with the directions provided in the kit that have PCM on them. It turns out the wiring diagram is accurate on the back (a little misleading). But the word directions on the one side of the directions are NOT CORRECT and DONT PAY ANY ATTENTION TO THEM after the step to "install the wiring harness"!
1. Remove the Pro Tec module and bracket assembly at the back of the engine. Retain the 2 large engine mounting bolts for new bracket. Unscrew the Pro Tec wire harness connector to remove module and bracket.
Note: Remove both the 50Amp and 12.5 Amp breakers from the old bracket. Retain the screws for the 50A breaker for later remount on new bracket provided. Note the 12.5 Amp breaker is no longer used for the new distributor system.
2. Remove the engine wiring harness. Take notice of how the old harness is laid out as you will need to repeat this layout on the new harness. Also note: Do not damage the old harness as you will have to harvest the wiring for the over temp and low oil pressure sensors and reintsall these with the new harness. Also note you will have to remove one wire from the old 12.5 Amp breaker from the starter relay. The large sensor on the back left of the engine (knock sensor) will no longer be used with the new ignition system. I cut the yellow wire and removed the ground for the knock sensor wires and just taped the wires out of the way. You will also have to unscrew the wires from the xmission neutral safety switch on top of the transmission. Be careful not to drop small screws into bilge. Set screws aside for later remount.
3. Set the engine to "0" degrees on the balancer as this is TDC for number 1 cylinder which is the front right (looking from rear of engine) on the 351 Ford (LH rotation) engine. Some choose to remove the spark plugs and rotate engine manually, but I was able to use the starter to set at "0" TDC.
4. Disconnect the battery. I removed the negative post.
5. Remove the black plastic cover at the top of the pickup assembly (this is where the new distributor will mount). Note the location of where the rotator is pointing. This is the firing position for No. 1 cylinder. Put a mark or tape on a hose or somewhere so you know where to point the new distributor rotor for initial engine timing setting. Unbolt and remove the pick up assembly mounting bolt and retainer (mine was 1/2 in socket on a universal worked best). You will need a 1 1/4 diameter shop vac hose ready as you most likely will have some debris fall into the distributor base in the engine. I had to agitate my old pickup assembly with a rubber hammer and pull up with significant force before it finally broke loose. Look into engine for debris with flashlight and vacuum out any debris.
6. Remove all the old spark plug wires. Don't worry, you will install new wires in the proper firing sequence later.
7. To install new mallory distributor, Remove the Mallory distributor cap and set aside. Use 3-in-1 oil and lube the bottom gear. Note that as you install the new distributor the rotor head will rotate slightly as the gears engage. Adjust the rotor so that the firing position will end up as close as you can to the position you marked in step 5 above (removing pick up assembly). It may take a couple of tries to get the new distributor completely seated. Once seated with rotor facing near the old location, Reinstall the Distributor hold down bracket and bolt and snug down. Don't completely tighten yet. You want to be able to adjust the distributor for timing the engine later. Leave the distributor cover/cap off for now.
8. Transfer the Starter relay to the new mounting bracket. This is the large bracket. I mounted the starter relay to the top right holes. Note you will have to remove the grounding wires and reinstall on retaining bolt. Take some time here as you will have to loosen and move some wiring around to make this new plate work.
9. Transfer the 50 Amp relay to the other smaller mounting bracket using the original mounting screws from step 1 above. This smaller bracket will mount to the new larger mounting plate. I ended up drilling a new hole in the large plate to accommodate having the 50 amp mount in the center of the new larger plate. But before you mount the 50 amp bracket, bolt the new ballast resistor to the top of the large mounting plate left of the starting relay. This location will accommodate the new wiring harness connections to the resistor. You will have to obtain your own mounting bolts for the resistor and 50Amp breaker mount bracket. Once you are happy with the wiring around the new brackets, mount the 50 Amp bracket. (I drilled a new location in the center of the large plate. I did this to try to mount the black plastic cover provided in the kit. I did this at the end.) I purchased 2 small brass screws with nuts, lock washers and flat washers to mount wires to the ballast resistor. I discarded the provided spade connectors on the resistor. Loosely mount the new mounting plate to the motor housing, using the 2 large bolts used on the original pro tec mount plate from step 1. Leave the bolts loose for now as you may need to re-route wires when installing the new harness.
10. Install the new wiring harness. (DO NOT FOLLOW THE PROVIDED WORDING instructions from the PCM sheet as they are NOT CORRECT.) The drawing on the other side of the instructions is accurate. Lay it out similarly to the old harness, routing wires down the back of the new distributor. Leave room for the new coil mounting plate to the right front of the intake. Remove the high temp and low oil pressure wires from the old wiring harness (mine were white or light gray color). I had to cut away the old tape being careful not to cut these sensor wires. Lay these sensor wires along the new harness and tie wrap or tape to keep off the manifold. Reattach wires to the oil and heat sensors and reconnect to the green wire at the back of the engine near old harness connector. Connect the new Distributor wire to the provided jumper plug (BE CAREFUL to keep the pins inside this plug straight...I had no spark when I first tried my ignition and the problem turned out to be pushed in pins on this CHEAP connector!!!) Make sure it is seated. Connect the other end of this jumper per the drawing provided. Brown to ground at back of starter relay, green to distributor neg side and (distributor red to one side of ballast resistor with the Red wire from rear top of the harness. (Note this red wire is also connected to carburetor red wire and the purple ignition wire from post 6 on the wire harness). I purchased a protective wire sheath for these distributor wires as they have to lay on the manifold. Connect the purple wire from the rear top of the new harness to the other side of the ballast resistor with a black wire jumper provided in the kit. This jumper connects to the "I" post of the starter relay per the wiring diagram provided. Connect the white wires from the new harness to the neutral safety switch and "S" post of the starter relay per the wiring diagram provided. Tighten the relay and 50 A breaker mounting plates once you are happy with wiring layout. This is where I drilled a hole for the 50 Amp mounting bracket just below center of the big plate. The black plastic cover mounts on the 50 Amp breaker holder. I had to cut away pieces of this plastic cover to make it work. Do his last!
11. Mount the coil on the right front of engine. Find or purchase a 3/8 in course bolt to mount the new coil to the front right of the engine. Take care to route wires so they can be attached to the coil before final tightening. Connect the Green and gray wire connectors to the neg side of coil and purple connector to the positive side of coil.
12. Install the distributor Cap NOTING WHICH PLUG CONNECTOR LINES UP WITH THE ROTOR. This wire plug position is your No. 1 spark plug wire. Lay out the new spark plug wires by length. Start with shortest wire and install the No. 1 Plug wire from distributor to the No. 1 spark plug. Now install plug wires one at a time following your firing order. My engine is a LH Ford 5.8 HO. Firing order 1,3,7,2,6,5,4,8 is counterclockwise looking down on the distributor. Consult your engine type for cylinder number and layout. Double check your spark plug wiring and firing order.
13. Double check all your wiring connections.
14. Connect the battery, connect a timing light to number one spark plug, and with the distributor mounting bolt snug enough so it won't rotate freely, but lose enough to turn by hand, attempt to start engine noting that your timing light shows spark strobe. You may have to advance the timing (rotating distributor clockwise looking from above) until engine starts. Set timing per your engine specs once engine is warned up and set to proper RPM. My engine is 10 Degrees before TDC at 600 to 700RPM. (NOT 5 DEGREES PER THE PCM DIRECTIONS)
15. I used liquid tape on the ballast resistor and starter solenoid connections after I got the engine running. I would also check your wiring a few days into use to ensure wires are not being damaged by heat.
My engine runs significantly better with this Mallory Distributor versus the old ProTec!. If you are still running the old ProTec, I would switch it out as soon as feasible.
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