Ramlin Trailer Problem

[NSV]

We picked up our new 211 today and the Ramlin trailer will not back up. The brakes just lock up. We have a 7-way to 5-way adapter that the dealer gave us. Is there something we are missing? The actuator on the trailer is a Titan Model 60 Lever-Lock Coupler.

[Christopher-W.-Becker]

RE: Ramlin Trailer Problem

NSV,

Are you by chance trying to back it us a grade...even slight?

[NSV]

Yea it is a very very slight grade. Do these couplers not have a electric lock out for reverse? Here is a pic of the boat on the drive.

[Christopher-W.-Becker]

NSV,

Yes they do BUT. When you pull forward slightly to correct angles, etc the slight down grade puts pressure on the system. Then when the lock kicks in when reverse is engaged, it stays locked.

I have a cold chisle that I insert in the slides slots in the head to get back the boat in the garage. I can send a picture if it does not make sense.

Drove me nuts...when I could not get a F350 DRW diesel to push the boat in the drive and chirped the tires on the truck. At least I know the brakes WILL Stop the trailer.

[Christopher-W.-Becker]

NSV,

Here are a few pics of my "FIX". Works like a champ.....CRAFTSMAN to the Rescue. I keep it in the door of the truck all the time so I can grab it just before I begin to back, BEFORE the pressure gets on the cylinder.

Hope this helps.

[Skidave]

I have the same coupler on my trailer. I also have the reverse lockout solenoid. However, I drilled a small hole in the side of the coupler to insert a lcokout-pin. Some couplers come with a hole predrilled. The idea is the same as the chisle, to prevent the tounge from compressing the master cylinder piston. I went to Lowes, they have a selection of release pins with a keyring loop, picked one, drilled a hole and slipped the keyring loop over my emergency release brake cable so it does not get lost.

It sounds like your adapter wiring might not be allowing the solenoid to come on in when in reverse.

Hope this helps.

Dave

[ozark_skier]

Use the hooks on the safety cables.

I have the same trailer coupler. Once or twice backing up my driveway (which is steeper than yours) the brakes would lock. When I wiggled the adaptor and made sure it was plugged in correctly I could hear the solenoid click (when the truck was still in reverse) and all we needed to do was pull forward to release the brakes and back it right in. Before I purchased the adaptor I learned if you run both of the safety hooks (on the coiled cables) through the slot they will also hold the brakes open. One hook is not wide enough though, it has to be both. The dealer recommended I do this anyway (plug adaptor or not) but I usually forget.

[noti_dad]

I back up a 8-10 degree slope to get my 211 into the garage. I have a DHM trailer with the electric lockout and have never had a problem even when I pull forward, stop and continue in reverse up the hill. Might want to have the selenoid checked.

[Flux]

Definately look into the wiring, not all 7 round adapters account for the lockout thing.

[G-man]

X2 have the reverse soliniod checked, you can also check the 7-5 plug for voltage at the reverse wire

[NSV]

Thanks for all the help! We checked the the wiring and everything is getting power, so I'm thinking it is the selenoid.

[ScrewPusher]

I have the Ramlin also, but have had no problems. Check to see if the reverse lights on the trailer (white ones on side) are lighting up. The back up solenoid and the reverse lights are the same power source, your vechicle revers lights. If you have lights, they you can assume it's the solenoid, if not you really gon't have the reverse lights hooked up @ the 7/5 way

[jthooker]

The solenoid valve that RamLin uses is a “normally open” valve in the brake line between the master cylinder and the brakes. If your brakes are already engaged when you shift into reverse and the valve closes, it simply holds the pressure on the brakes and they won’t release. If you know that you’re going to encounter that situation ahead of time then you can insert the cold chisel, lock-out pin, safety chain hooks, etc. to keep the brakes from ever actuating. The problem occurs when you’re on the road, stop on a downhill grade, then have to back up for some reason. The solution is to install a “normally closed” valve and a return line that releases the pressurized fluid back into the master cylinder.

Kodiak has a discussion about the two types of valves on its web site here:

http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/redswish/brake_faq's.htm

[NautiqueJeff]

I had to replace my solenoid last year. It was leaking fluid all over the place. It isn't too expensive. It was about $40 if I remember correctly, and is quite easy to replace. Just be sure to bleed the brakes after installing the new unit.

[todda]

Yeah, NSV, my buddy had the same problem with his 'Bu on his Ramlin trailer. Like Becker did with his chisel, my buddy would insert the handle end of his 1/2" socket wrench in there, and it accomplished the same thing. "Hillbilly brake lock-out" we called it! Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

Todd