Excal 330 Filling block with AF

[homer12]

I'm in the middle of winterizing my 330 Excalibur in an SV211 for the first time. I got the oil changed and block drained except for the water pump so far. Ran out of time to get that and plugs put back and my plan was to suck the RV anti-freeze out of the bucket to fill the block. Now since I have to go back the t-stat won't be open since the engine will be cold. Can I just remove the t-stat and run the engine with the same method of sucking it out of the bucket? Making sure that works and I don't miss something. I know I could pour it in but I thought sucking it out of the bucket will be easier.

[Quinner]

As long as you drained both sides of the block you will be fine, water enters when cold, exits when hot, TStat always lets water in. No Heater or shower?

[homer12]

Quinner, yes both sides of block are drained via starboard plug and port knock sensor, exhaust manifolds, and tranny cooler by removing the hose. Still need to drain at the water circulating pump though. I've pulled out the top heater line and blown through that to push all the water I could with lung power out of there and it seems clear.

So, you are saying T-stat always open? I'm thinking it doesn't open until the engine gets to a certain temp and then it will let water in through opening at that point and let more water circulate completely around block. Before fully opening it just diverts it out the exhaust manifolds. Am I missing something? This is why I believe I need to pull it to let the AF past it while engine is cold.

[Quinner]

Yes, trust me! So you sleep better over the winter, pull a block plug when u are done, bet you a dollar antifreeze comes out!! No teflon tape on the knock sensor when you re-install and snug/firm tight, do not over tighten. Heater drain sounds good as long as the J-Tube or water pump plug is out and all other plugs were still out.

[Quinner]

Also, if your boat has a keypad and a gateway box with pitots, pull both pitot tubes also to make sure they are drained. If easy enough to remove box completely not a bad idea to take it out and store in a dry warm place.

[homer12]

I'm with ya on the pitot tubes and Gateway box. I'll be doing that but just haven't yet.

I have to say though, I'm not convinced on the t-stat opening deal. I've read a lot over on the Team Talk site about winterizing and everywhere I've ever seen adding AF it has been mentioned to get the engine up to operating temp so the t-stat opens. You may be able to pull a plug on the block but I'm not convinced that means its circulated everywhere. Any other votes?

I really appreciate the feedback though Quinner and maybe I'm just paranoid..

[Quinner]

Perhaps this will convince you, Team Talk means they were not smart enough to buy a CC and now you are going to trust their winterizing advice, nuff said, lmao!!
Or putting your trust in some weirdo on the internet, aka me maybe not such a good idea either, lol.

If you really want to convince yourself remove the TStat housing and you will see how it flows to the water pump and block, or if you wanted to spend the time hook up your drained cold motor to the hose again and run for a few minutes, not long enough for the stat to open, and re-drain everything, guarantee the block will be full. Another way to think of it is it probably would not be a good idea to suddenly introduce a surge of cold water into a 160 deg block, which would be the case if it worked the way the MC guys are telling you.

[homer12]

Perhaps this will convince you, Team Talk means they were not smart enough to buy a CC and now you are going to trust their winterizing advice, nuff said, lmao!!
Or putting your trust in some weirdo on the internet, aka me maybe not such a good idea either, lol.

HA ha! lol

Thanks for all the input! Probably because the t-stat housing is easy to get to, I probably will pop it open for my own edjumacation

[Quinner]

Check this out, HW's crude diagram is on a Ford but will give you the general idea

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum...-your-nautique

[homer12]

I think I get it now. When closed a very small amount of water passes through the block (through that "bypass" hole?), but when opened a larger amount of water passes through the block through the thermostat opening. Would that be accurate?