Question: why do i need to winterize? i guess the reasoning is this; water might freeze, expand, and crack the block, right? but honestly, how much water should be in there? and if there is only droplets, can that actually cause the block to crack? just curious. thanks in advance
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Apr 2015
- 1295
- Martinez, GA/Lake Greenwood, SC
- 2017 GS20 Previous: 2011 SAN 210, 2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200
Metal parts that have fresh water (ie lake water) circulating through them will be FULL of water, not just droplets. When that water freezes the metal parts holding that water will absolutely crack. It happens ever winter to people who don't winterize or do it improperly.2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200
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A d m i n i s t r a t o r
- Mar 2002
- 16453
- Lake Norman
- Mooresville, NC
- 2025 SAN G23 PNE 1998 Ski Nautique 1985 Sea Nautique 1980 Twin-Engine Fish Nautique
If you live somewhere where the temperature is below 32 for any amount of time, you need to winterize. If you've never done it (assuming you're doing it yourself), you'll be amazed at how much water is in the block, exhaust system, transmission, etc.
If your engine was just one year newer, you could winterize it yourself in about ten minutes. The '16 and newer engines have these little blue plugs that you just unscrew by hand. Once the water is drained, you're done (unless you have a heater). Your boat will require using some tools to remove the drain plugs, but it is still pretty quick.I own and operate Silver Cove Marine, which is an inboard boat restoration, service, and sales facility located in Mooresville, North Carolina. We specializes in Nautiques and Correct Crafts, and also provide general service for Nautiques fifteen years old and older.
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Originally posted by keithh2oskier View PostSo many of you in the North winterize due to temps. Would you still winterize if you store in a heated garage where the temps never drop below say 40*?
The OP is in SLC where it certainly would need to be winterized if stored outside. But perhaps a heated garage removes the freezing aspect.
it's not worth trying to get away without winterizing. it takes an extra 15-30 minutes when you're prepping to store it, so it's worth the peace of mind.
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Originally posted by kdcdds View Postbut honestly, how much water should be in there? and if there is only droplets, can that actually cause the block to crack?
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You really need to drain the raw water portion of your cooling system if there is any potential of it seeing below freezing temps, If you have a 343 that may include your block, on the closed cooling motors it will be trans cooler, heat exchanger, manifolds, trans, etc. After everything has been drained you may at that point still have some droplets in the system, as an added security you should then backfill those same areas with anti-freeze.
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Originally posted by DocPhil View PostUnless there was backup power I would still winterize
On my 351 it really doesn't take long to winterize, I spend more time on the fog (pull each spark plug and fog) and oil change than the drain and add antifreeze.
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