Broken Positive Battery Terminal Question

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  • patoloco
    • Jul 2003
    • 270

    • Indianapolis, IN


    Broken Positive Battery Terminal Question

    I went to replace my 7 year old optima battery with a new one...but my battery cable just pulled off due to a broken terminal. ( I guess this could be the source of my low voltage readings?)

    Anyway, I need to replace this terminal...

    1.) Is there a way to replace this like the factory without soldering, running a new cable or having an industrial strength cable crimper?

    2.) If not, should I use just use the cheapo replacement shown below? If so, ..do I need to take a hacksaw to the cable?
  • jonbassham
    • Jun 2005
    • 76



    #2
    RE: Broken Positive Battery Terminal Question

    patoloco,

    Just cut the cable right before the terminal... then strip back the rubber shielding with a razor blade. Then you are ready to install a new terminal.

    I would probably go with a high end battery terminal that will tighten around the wire with allen wrenches like this:
    http://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant....roduct_Count=1
    but you could use the cheapo one too... i'm not sure how that one tightens up though.
    \'05 210 SANTE -
    For Sale

    Texas

    Comment

    • M3Fan
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Jul 2003
      • 1034



      #3
      RE: Broken Positive Battery Terminal Question

      Cheapo one will do just fine.
      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
      2000 Ski Nautique GT-40
      2016 SN 200 H5
      www.Fifteenoff.com

      Comment

      • LT206
        • Mar 2006
        • 262

        • Huntsville, AL


        #4
        I've got the exact same problem with my postive battery cable. Would it be a good idea to seal the new cable connection with some of that liquid rubber stuff? Just curious, has anyone replaced the whole cable back to the battery, and what does it cost?

        Comment

        • Hydrofoilmaniac
          • Apr 2006
          • 105

          • Menomonie, WI


          #5
          You may have to run to your local electrical supply to get a long enough cable...unless you special order it from your Auto parts store or buy it from CC. Chances are your cable probably doesn't need to be replaced.
          1976 Ski Nautique.....old but it\'s still going strong

          Comment

          • Grant_West
            Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
            • Jul 2003
            • 758

            • Redwoodcity Ca


            #6
            If you go to any quality stereo store they ming have a nice battery terminal with a 0 AGW input.

            http://www.stingerelectronics.com/we..._terminals.asp

            Comment

            • Onthewater
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Jul 2003
              • 695

              • Near the cheddar curtain


              #7
              I am with Grant, after dealing with the factory cables and crappy generic clamps I said F it. Bought 2 6 foot of 4 guage wire for power and ground from our car audio dept. soldered the new terminals on both ends, we also used ring terminals instead of the style seen way above in this post. works great, never have to deal with the "old style" any more. spend a few extra bucks and get something like grant pointed out, quick easy and reliable.
              I don\'t care.

              Comment

              • bobchris
                Banned
                • Apr 2006
                • 359



                #8
                4 gauge cable from a stereo store isn't the way to go.

                First the wire's undersized to start with, it needs to be 0 or 0/2 gauge for a starter

                secondly it's not marine grade and the insulation will crack and the cable wil corroid much sooner than marine grade wire. Additional the stereo stuff is going to copper wire, tinned at best, and you don't use copper wire on a boat.

                You use aluminum wire for marine applications with the proper insulation for marine use.

                Comment

                • Onthewater
                  Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                  • Jul 2003
                  • 695

                  • Near the cheddar curtain


                  #9
                  it isn't copper, it works great, it might be 2, it won't crack any faster than what is in there. it is fine for under a car and in an engine compartment but not for a boat? what is proper insulation for marine use? do tell. all the guys with "stereos" in their boats better switch all there wire to marine grade.

                  i am an a$$
                  I don\'t care.

                  Comment

                  • patoloco
                    • Jul 2003
                    • 270

                    • Indianapolis, IN


                    #10
                    So, the jist is....since I don't want to fish a new wire through the boat....

                    I need to hacksaw the old connector off and strip the wire....then buy a nice connector, such as the one pictured.

                    I might have to use my cheapo in the interim until I get to the stereo store.

                    Comment

                    • M3Fan
                      1,000 Post Club Member
                      • Jul 2003
                      • 1034



                      #11
                      Originally posted by Onthewater

                      i am an a$$
                      Wow, you got me LOL at the office at this one. Hilarious.
                      ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                      2000 Ski Nautique GT-40
                      2016 SN 200 H5
                      www.Fifteenoff.com

                      Comment

                      • bobchris
                        Banned
                        • Apr 2006
                        • 359



                        #12
                        Originally posted by Onthewater
                        i am an a$$
                        so very true,

                        marine wiring has a thicker covering of insulation and a different type of material to withstand the vibration and pounding that a car doesn't see but a boat does.

                        And If you like replacing stuff twice then knock your self out and use the cheapist **** you can, but then you really won't be saving much when you have to redo the job when it fails prematurely, then maybe your used to that, now you have doubled your cost when you could have done right the first time and saved yourself time and money.

                        Comment

                        • MHayes
                          Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                          • Aug 2004
                          • 830

                          • Roswell, GA


                          #13
                          Originally posted by bobchris
                          Additional the stereo stuff is going to copper wire, tinned at best, and you don't use copper wire on a boat.

                          You use aluminum wire for marine applications with the proper insulation for marine use.
                          Well bobchris, I'm doing a lot of work on the stereo of our 2001 Air, and low and behold the factory ground and battery cables are copper. I guess CC screwed up on our boat and forgot to put in the aluminum wire.
                          2001 Air Nautique

                          Comment

                          • mgswed
                            • May 2005
                            • 137

                            • Worcester, MA


                            #14
                            I'm with Onthewater and MHayes on this one. Seems like my factory battery power and ground cables are copper as well. I also dont see my boat having much more vibration and pounding than my car (enough that it would effect my wiring). I pound on my car pretty well :grin:. -MG

                            Comment

                            • gotpwr
                              • Aug 2004
                              • 244

                              • Louisville, KY

                              • None

                              #15
                              Originally posted by patoloco
                              So, the jist is....since I don't want to fish a new wire through the boat....

                              I need to hacksaw the old connector off and strip the wire....then buy a nice connector, such as the one pictured.

                              I might have to use my cheapo in the interim until I get to the stereo store.
                              Exactly. I have a cheapo Autozone terminal in mine right now and it works fine.
                              2000 Air Nautique Powered by FORD <-- Former Boat

                              Comment

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