Hooked up battery backwards, fan blower works, engine does not crank

[Bevostein]

Rossrips yes power everywhere except ignition.

2000superdare- that's the first I e heard or read about a diode. I have the GM made PCM 330 so I have 3 - 12.5 amp relays and 1 60. I've now replaced all of the 12.5 amp relays and the 60 amp breaker.

- no voltage on either side of the new 60 amp breaker

-*in the start position*
Voltage: .4 volts to yellow / red
.1 to red


-this one, Voltage only to purple and white wire at 11.9 V


No voltage to any other wires at the 3 relays.


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I'm sure you have thought of this but just in case....if you are getting power to everything else but it won't start are you sure boat is in neutral? On my 216V, I ever so slightly bumped my throttle handle while the boat was off and was not able to start the boat. Handle was barely pushed forward. What you describe is exactly how it acted. I started trouble shooting like you, even called my dealer and that was the first thing they asked me. Sure enough that was all it was.

Also check that your kill switch is seated properly while you're at it.

[2000superdare]

If the pumps are coming on then it sounds like power is everywhere it should be and the solenoid under the breakers is just waiting for signal from keypad, if its not something silly like out of neutral or safety switch, the signal is not making it to solenoid to send to started to crank.

[DW SD]

I'm 99% certain relays wouldn't blow from being polarity being reversed. The magnetic solenoid within a relay can be wired either way and while there is a conventional method. Then, the current that is passed through, the switch doesn't care which polarity.

Doug

[Skidave]

On my 216V, I ever so slightly bumped my throttle handle while the boat was off and was not able to start the boat. Handle was barely pushed forward. What you describe is exactly how it acted. I started trouble shooting like you, even called my dealer and that was the first thing they asked me. Sure enough that was all it was.

Plus one on this comment. Got towed in one day to find out my son bumped the throttle control and it was just out of neutral.

Also check your safety lanyard as mentioned in the same post.

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[bladespec]

I bought my boat with the same issue and im pretty sure Edward Scissor hands replaced the starter with the battery connected and shorted the system out. My boat did not run and was a mess when I got it so I can't say everything will be the same for you. I wound up replacing the computer/breaker under the dash and was able to jump the boat out at the relay on the back of the motor but could not get it to run off the keypad(had the similar click sympton you described). On the back of the motor there is a solenoid underneath where the 2 15 amp and 1 60 amp breakers are if you follow the wires to the you right side they go into a harness, I split open the harness and found a diode, when I tested the diode it was bad. I replaced it for 35 cents from radio shack and the boat worked. This was back in 2011 so it has been a while but using a meter I found power going to to the solenoid, figured out how everything worked and luckily after slicing the harness open found that diode(which only allows electricity to flow one way). I'm assuming your hearing the fuel pump come on when the power is on?

2000superdare, can you give me an idea on what the diode looked like? And by harness you mean, basically, a cluster of wires? Sorry I'm just not an engine or electrical guy. Learning a lot through you guys though.


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[bladespec]

I'm sure you have thought of this but just in case....if you are getting power to everything else but it won't start are you sure boat is in neutral? On my 216V, I ever so slightly bumped my throttle handle while the boat was off and was not able to start the boat. Handle was barely pushed forward. What you describe is exactly how it acted. I started trouble shooting like you, even called my dealer and that was the first thing they asked me. Sure enough that was all it was.

Also check that your kill switch is seated properly while you're at it.

Thanks Bevostein, I was hoping it was Neutral issue from the get go but it's not. Maybe it's the diode 2000superdare said something about. Now to find that thing.


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[bladespec]

I'm 99% certain relays wouldn't blow from being polarity being reversed. The magnetic solenoid within a relay can be wired either way and while there is a conventional method. Then, the current that is passed through, the switch doesn't care which polarity.

Doug

That's what is so crazy. Why can I not get voltage to the ignition wire mounted on the solenoid / starter. If 60 amp breaker and 3 of the 3 - 12.5 amp relays have been replaced, what is blocking juice to that wire. Seems to me that the clicks in the 12.5 relay say power is getting there, there must be something (maybe that diode- 2000superdare) blocking it from the relay to the starter.


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[bladespec]

On my 216V, I ever so slightly bumped my throttle handle while the boat was off and was not able to start the boat. Handle was barely pushed forward. What you describe is exactly how it acted. I started trouble shooting like you, even called my dealer and that was the first thing they asked me. Sure enough that was all it was.

Plus one on this comment. Got towed in one day to find out my son bumped the throttle control and it was just out of neutral.

Also check your safety lanyard as mentioned in the same post.

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That's wild. Sounds like something I'd do for sure. I've checked safety lanyard and even held the button in with my fingers so I'm ruling that out. I haven't seen the backside of the killswitch or safety lanyard button though. No clicking (when pressed start button) occurs when lanyard is removed. Can't be the issue.


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[2000superdare]

If you have a set of alligator clips, or spare wire you can jump the diode out to see if that is the case. The wiring harness will be a bunch of wires wrapped together. Follow the wires from the solenoid and they should all come together into a black plastic tube usually taped up with electrical tape. Use a razor blade and open up some bare wire on either side of the diode to jump it out to see if that is in fact what is wrong. The diode will most likely be a black tube with the symbol on it in the picture I attached.

[bladespec]

If you have a set of alligator clips, or spare wire you can jump the diode out to see if that is the case. The wiring harness will be a bunch of wires wrapped together. Follow the wires from the solenoid and they should all come together into a black plastic tube usually taped up with electrical tape. Use a razor blade and open up some bare wire on either side of the diode to jump it out to see if that is in fact what is wrong. The diode will most likely be a black tube with the symbol on it in the picture I attached.

Awesome! Thank you very much. I'll check it.


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[ski4evr]

There is also a fusible link in the wiring directly at starter. see circle in page

Doc1.docx

[Fgroce]

Bevostein The wires that go to 85 and 86 on the relay go to the coil. This is what energizes the relay and causes it to switch. The wire that goes to 30 should probably be 12v. and when energized would make the wire going to 87 hot 12v. I would measure from the neg side of the battery to these points to see if you have voltage. you will need a complete wiring diagram to track down further. I would look for fusible links and bad diiodes as recommended before. Hope this helps some. Also may want to post on CorrectCraftfan. Someone there may have more advice.

[bladespec]

There is also a fusible link in the wiring directly at starter. see circle in page

Why is it always the things staring you in the face that end up being the culprit. Massive massive thanks to everyone for their help. Ski4evr, you were right. I blew the 100 amp fuse on the solenoid line that connects to the starter. I never realized that line gets its power from the positive battery line running from the perko switch. I really can't thank you guys enough.

2000superdare, I did get most of the ignition (yellow) wire cut open but I couldn't find the diode. The yellow wire ran straight from the starter to the relay (which is where I was getting the clicking).

It also looks like the 100 amp fuse line runs straight to the 60 amp breaker. Pretty cool to know the level of protection nautique / pcm / GM or whoever has put into place.

Thankful for you guys!!


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[ScooterMcgavin]

That's awesome! This is why I love this community

[2000superdare]

Glad you got it figured out!