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I was pulling a skier a couple of days before the big freeze hit. After the 2nd pass, the boat had reduced power and started to make a strange noise. We idled back to the boat lift and could here the noise coming from the spark plug closest to the stern on the port side. I turned off the engine and retrieved a spark plug wrench. Snugging up on the wrench, which was less than 5 lbs of pressure, sheared the top half of the spark plug off just below the nut.
Removed the adjacent spark plug. It came out very easily. Plugs had 300 hours and were installed Nov 2011 with anti-seize.
I wanted to see what I was dealing with and what tools would work. The old plug was clamped in a bench vise where it took a beating. I could not twist the plug in two pieces with a wrench. It stood up to a steel chisel and hammer. It finally succumbed to a Dremel cut off wheel. Cut the metal plug base just below the nut which is in the same area the boat plug failed.
First plug removal attempt was with the 1/2' nipple extractor from Harbor freight. It fit in place but just would not grab. It worked great on the bench vice plug but would not get in alignment in the problem plug. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-93822.html
Next tool up was a Irwin Hanson EX-6 Sprial Screw extractor from Lowe's. I was thinking that the EX-5 might be better and that was plan C.
Prepped the plug threads with a 50-50 mix of Acetone and Auto Transmission Fluid . A small artist paint brush made it easy to apply the mix to the threads without getting the fluid down the cylinder. The fluid probably wasn't necessary but I wanted to get this plug out on the first try with force.
A duct tape sticky ball retrieved the porcelain electrode from the inside of lower half of the plug. Probably should have tried to vacuum it out first. It came out easily.
Internet advice said to be sure the piston was out of the way. The back end of the artist paint brush went a couple of inches below the bottom of the plug. This clearance would be important if using the EX-5 extractor. The EX-5 would drive below spark plug electrode and possibly hit the piston.
Pushed the EX-6 extractor in place and put a socket with extension on top of the extractor. I lined it all up and had a buddy give it a solid tap with a hammer to seat the extractor. Attached the ratchet drive and it spun right out.
All the pieces looked to be there and threads were good. Duct taped some 1/2" vinyl tubing to reduce the shop vac hose and vacuumed around the plug hole base and down into the cylinder.
Also during this episode, I discovered that the 764 plugs are changing from the dull black metal body to a shiny silver body. The auto parts store sold me a box of each. I returned the black ones and got all to match.
Removed the adjacent spark plug. It came out very easily. Plugs had 300 hours and were installed Nov 2011 with anti-seize.
I wanted to see what I was dealing with and what tools would work. The old plug was clamped in a bench vise where it took a beating. I could not twist the plug in two pieces with a wrench. It stood up to a steel chisel and hammer. It finally succumbed to a Dremel cut off wheel. Cut the metal plug base just below the nut which is in the same area the boat plug failed.
First plug removal attempt was with the 1/2' nipple extractor from Harbor freight. It fit in place but just would not grab. It worked great on the bench vice plug but would not get in alignment in the problem plug. http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-93822.html
Next tool up was a Irwin Hanson EX-6 Sprial Screw extractor from Lowe's. I was thinking that the EX-5 might be better and that was plan C.
Prepped the plug threads with a 50-50 mix of Acetone and Auto Transmission Fluid . A small artist paint brush made it easy to apply the mix to the threads without getting the fluid down the cylinder. The fluid probably wasn't necessary but I wanted to get this plug out on the first try with force.
A duct tape sticky ball retrieved the porcelain electrode from the inside of lower half of the plug. Probably should have tried to vacuum it out first. It came out easily.
Internet advice said to be sure the piston was out of the way. The back end of the artist paint brush went a couple of inches below the bottom of the plug. This clearance would be important if using the EX-5 extractor. The EX-5 would drive below spark plug electrode and possibly hit the piston.
Pushed the EX-6 extractor in place and put a socket with extension on top of the extractor. I lined it all up and had a buddy give it a solid tap with a hammer to seat the extractor. Attached the ratchet drive and it spun right out.
All the pieces looked to be there and threads were good. Duct taped some 1/2" vinyl tubing to reduce the shop vac hose and vacuumed around the plug hole base and down into the cylinder.
Also during this episode, I discovered that the 764 plugs are changing from the dull black metal body to a shiny silver body. The auto parts store sold me a box of each. I returned the black ones and got all to match.
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