Yes it will stick out slightly. You should still be able to fit the entire ecu inside the plastic Gt40 cover so youll never see it.
X
-
yes it will work. The newer GT40s I believe had a lower and possibly more stable idle RPM.... ran slightly richer on top end according to some guys here that have dissected the various tune files and looked at the differences. Might notice the lower rpm running the newest 300M in an older 95 model. I wouldn’t run a different tune file if your goal is to get more performance. I’d only spend the money on a new programmed chip if you need a replacement or want to have a backup ECU.
Comment
-
-
Hey there - I sold my GT 40 based boat and still have the spare ECU unit I built for it. t.fransconi burned the moates chip and I got the ford ECU off Ebay. I'd sell it for what I'm in it - $200 w/free shipping to any US address. Never put it in my boat to try it but have all confidence it will work. Ping me if interested.
Price drop - $150 shipped.2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
Bellevue WA
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by SilentSeven View PostHey there - I sold my GT 40 based boat and still have the spare ECU unit I built for it. t.fransconi burned the moates chip and I got the ford ECU off Ebay. I'd sell it for what I'm in it - $200 w/free shipping to any US address. Never put it in my boat to try it but have all confidence it will work. Ping me if interested.
Price drop - $150 shipped.
Comment
-
-
ah...nuts. Just sold it. Thought I had marked that in all places I had it listed.....sorry!2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
Bellevue WA
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by C_Heath View Post
I wont be owning it until 2/13 but If you still have it, ill take it.
The success rate is about 70%.
As an alternertive you can use a junkyard ford ecu and chip it to pcm.
My engine is converted to a aftermarket ecu and I just sold my pcm ecu.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Comment
-
-
Tom programmed by moates chip last fall. I have the rebuilt engine back from rebuilders and am starting reassembly in the next few weeks. I constructed my new ECU today and wanted to post pictures for anyone else doing so. All the info I'm posting is already in this thread, but I wanted to consolidate into a single post at the end.
The thing that confused me the most was where to plug in the chip. Wasn't immediately obvious. Also, the ECU port had some sort of gunk all over it. I think it was some sort of protective grease. I had to scratch it off with my fingernail and then clean with q-tip with rubbing alcohol to expose the pins.
The second issue was the transistor that is in the way. For a second I thought I had purchased the wrong ECU (mine is a D1L1). As others have posted, you simply have to carefully bend the transistor down to allow the new moates chip to slide in.
Lastly, I broke off one of the small corner bolts while opening up the cover. After reinstalling cover, the corner seems very tight with the other 5 bolts in place, so I am not going to worry about drilling out and replacing.
Pics below:
Comment
-
-
Hello all. GREAT info on these threads and thanks to all for going out of your way to figure this all out. I am NOT a computer guy but find myself in the same situation as all of you. Not sure I’d be able to set all of this up.
Last year I “tricked” my EEC into turning on the fuel pump when needed. It decided to stop telling the fuel pump what to do. It ran great all year after myself and a friend figured out a bypass through the relay.
This year I have new gremlins. Boat goes into Limp mode “2600 RPM”. I’ve changed just about every oil pressure and water temp sensors and switches I could find with no change. When I shut it off and re-start, it runs right up to full throttle for about 15 seconds. Then poof, into Limp mode again. I believe I need a new/replacement ECM. It’s a 95 EFI Throttle Body ProTech. I really don’t want to convert to a distributor and regular carb.
Does anyone have a set-up thy would like to sell? Keith.
Comment
-
-
Pictures of your engine will sure help,I thought by 95 they gave up on the protec and either had a basic carb model or the MPI GT 40. Throttle body injection pro tech does not use a ECM. On Correct Craft Fan which is unfortunately down at the moment there are details to convert your protec but still use the throttle body injection. You still though have to use a new distributor. Everyone who converts and changes over to a carb are happy they did it.Last edited by gary s; 07-14-2020, 03:30 PM.
Comment
-
-
Thank you guys! I guess I’m one of the LUCKY ones here, (knock on wood). I swapped out the water temp sensor and switch as well as the oil sending unit and oil pressure switch. It WORKED !! I’ll try to throw a pic of the engine on here tomorrow as I do think it has the wonderful Pro-Tech ECM. I could be wrong.
I do have a strong feeling though I’m on borrowed time, lol. So thank you guys again for writing back and being available to help. It sure is nice to know there is actually some support out there for these engines.
One other weird issue. Ran it tonight and it seems to be running good, no more limp mode!! However, obviously out of gear, I go full throttle forward and the engine hesitates a little. But if I run up the throttle backwards (reverse) it cracks right up redic fast with no hesitation. What in the world would be the difference. Throttle is throttle in neutral.
Comment
-
-
Hey guys...so follow up to my new ECM. Once the engine was rebuilt this spring, we reassembled and used old (original) ECM. It worked fine which means my new Frankenstein ECM will be the backup (or vice versa).
I had used a donor D1L1 ecm I found on eBay. I decided I wanted to use the new ECM since it has the latest engine tune data on the Moates chip. We switched out the ECM and immediately the fuel control cell (fuel pump) did not work. We could get it to come on if we grounded it directly bypassing relay. We swapped the old ECM back in and immediately the problem was gone.
What do you guys reckon is the issue? Is the donor D1L1 I got on eBay bad?
Also, can you put the Moates chip into the original ECM to access and override with the updated engine tune data?
Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
Comment
-
Comment