Hope for GT40 EFI ECU

[t.franscioni]

I would think yes you can put the chip in the factory ecm. If it was me I wouldn’t even risk messing up a perfectly good factory ecm though. The D1L1 should work I know a few guys have ran them. Sure always a chance that used ecms on eBay are advertised as good and are not that’s the nature of used computer parts on eBay. Not sure if I burned the chip for you or not but that’s another possibility for mistakes to be made although it’s literally just clicking a mouse a couple times and the software programs the chip so kinda hard to screw that up. Sounds like if factory ecm works and the Frankenstein ecm doesn’t then there’s something wrong with it either the D1L1 or the chip. Can you send a pic of the chip installed in it? Did you clean the terminals on the D1L1 before installing the chip?

as for the difference of running the newer tune vs an older tune. I think there’s data on the differences between them somewhere on this thread. It’s small things like idle rpm and richness. There hasn’t been any noticeable power differences or fuel economy differences that I’m aware of. Not even worth the hassle of upgrading in my opinion but some like to tinker and I totally get it. Just saying if your after big changes by going to the latest and greatest factory tune file you’ll be disappointed I think.

[Rusty Barras]

Also you have to make 100% sure the chip connection is stripped and cleaned. I’ve had a few doa setups with fords due to bad chip connections.


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[Canuck-Surfer]

Tom...yes, you programmed my chip, but I feel confident that’s not the issue. You may both be onto something with the contacts, on the eBay donor ECM, there was some sort of very thick white residue on the female port where the chip plugs in. I had to scratch it off with my finger and a bamboo kebab skewer. Maybe I didn’t get it clean enough. How have others cleaned it. I don’t recall seeing this detail in this thread but may have missed it.


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[Fast351]

Rubbing alcohol works good for cleaning circuit boards. Use an old toothbrush.

[Peter6000]

I

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[Canuck-Surfer]

Update: I had tried to use the new ECU when we put everything back together after the engine rebuild earlier in the summer but the fuel pump did not work with the new one. So yesterday I went out and bought a new can of electrical contact cleaner and wiped in on the leads that the Moates chip slides onto. A lot of wax film lifted off. I reinstalled the Moates chip and put the ECM in the boat and boom, works like a charm!

[Canuck-Surfer]

Also, I can confirm that the 300M tune eliminates the Idle flair issue on my 96..woo hoo! (The idle flair was an issue for years. When comping off of open throttle to idle with engine hot, the idle was only come down to 1500-ish rpm for 10+ secs before eventually settling into a normal 700 rpm idle.)

[t.franscioni]

Glad you got it working and good news on the idle flair.

[teal95]

I created an account just so I could answer this. Long time Mustang tuner and I'm one of the people that worked on decoding the binary program and cal file in the C1A1 (as I had one of those Mustangs). I was researching using one to run a 2.3t (like in the SVO and TurboCoupe) when I found this thread.

The C1A1 and D1L1 are both for the n/a 2.3, the C being for the Mustang and the D for the Ranger. These are some of the first EECs Ford made that can be reprogrammed, but it requires using a UV light to erase the factory program and then some specialized equipment to write the new program, as the memory chips Ford used are non-standard. These memory chips have an additional pin (from a more standard chip) that when strobed increments the memory location being read, without having to write the complete address to the chip each time. This saves a couple of clock cycles and makes the EEC run a little faster.

As an additional upgrade when the went to UV erasable chips they also gained the ability to do datalogging, using a Ford specific OBD-I protocol. Being as the ability to do this involves not only the hardware in the EEC but also the programming I'm not sure if this if functional in your code.

As noted above the code EFI-MA39 is the hardware code for these EECs. The specifies which chips are populated which in turn drives the max number of injector drivers, etc that the EEC is capable of driving. The 2.3 that used these EECs was a 4 cylinder with Dual Plug-Distributorless Ignition System (usually written DP-DIS). However this was one of Ford's first DIS system and as such there is no difference in either the hardware or software in the EEC, it's all handled by the ignition module. Some of the 2.3t guys have used the older turbo controllers to run engines with these ignition systems.

These EECs originally were mass air, while your engines aren't. This is very interesting to me because while the Ford MAF were voltage output, the Ford MAP sensors were frequency based. I'm guessing for your engines they used an industry standard (for everyone else, like GM and Chrysler) voltage output MAP sensor as the chips in the EEC are different for measuring frequency.

As far as using only a C1A1 or D1L1 I'm guessing there are many EECs that you should be able to use, because the hardware in the x1x1 are so minimal. You could probably use any EEV of similar vintage (x1xx or x2xx) as both V6 and V8 are just going to have more chips (like 6 or 8 injector drivers instead of 4) that you won't use or care about. There have been a few people in the Mustang world that have used the A9L (the EEC for 89-93 5.0 Mustangs) to run both V6 and 4 cylinder engines. A few people have even used them to run other manufacturers engines.

steve

[teal95]

More thoughts.

Both the twEECer and Moates QuarterHorse are capable of datalogging. However first the cal must be "cracked" to learn what memory locations contain what data. Part of this process also usually involves finding basic cal parameters, like spark tables, VE tables...

[Jonny Quest]

I can’t speak for y’all, but my head is spinning...

I ran the last 2 posts through Google Translate but it didn’t help much. I really hope the ECM in my GT40 stays healthy ’cause I’m not sure what all that “alphabet soup” means.

JQ

[SilentSeven]

Jonny Quest lol - I think here's what you need to know. If your GT-40 ECM dies, you have a path to fix it. The simple path is to get a donor ECU from a wrecking yard / Ebay and have a Moates chip burned by someone with the gear like t.franscioni . Plug the moates chip into the donor ECU and you're in business. Before I sold my GT-40 boat, I had built a spare ECU doing this and it sat in the 'just in case' spares kit. I had about $150 invested give or take.

The last two posts are interesting if you want understand the ECM models that could work for this application or if want to develop your own custom tune. Posts from people like teal95 make me appreciate the community of tuner/hackers who reverse engineer EFI units so you can custom tune or even simply clone them. And how little skill I actually have in this area.

[Rusty Barras]

More thoughts.

Both the twEECer and Moates QuarterHorse are capable of datalogging. However first the cal must be "cracked" to learn what memory locations contain what data. Part of this process also usually involves finding basic cal parameters, like spark tables, VE tables...

Clint Garrity (clint@eecanylyzer.net) has a defintion file to work with the 300m.bin and his Binary Editor software. You can also use Stingerperformance PimpxShift standalone setup and it’s almost plug and play.


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[SuperAir94]

I've got a 2001 Super air with a bad ECM. I'm not super computer savvy is there anyone on here burning chips and then selling them?

[gary s]

2 posts up at #162 is a contact. I had my chip sent directly to him from Moates saving time and shipping costs. You will also need a C1A1 or D1L1 ford computer from a 91-93 4 cylinder Mustang. All the info is in this thread