Cylinder 1 missing

[bandit628]

1st day on the lake. Nautique 210 with 343. Cylinder 1 missing error, vibrated pretty bad at idle. Much less at higher rpms.

Going to replace spark plug. The old one looked ok. Last season I just had full engine tune up done with all new plugs and wires. Was done at nautique dealer.

Any place I should start?

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[ScooterMcgavin]

Did they change the rotor and cap too?

[bandit628]

Yes.

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[charlesml3]

1st day on the lake. Nautique 210 with 343. Cylinder 1 missing error, vibrated pretty bad at idle. Much less at higher rpms.

Going to replace spark plug. The old one looked ok. Last season I just had full engine tune up done with all new plugs and wires. Was done at nautique dealer.

Any place I should start?

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So start with the easy things and work your way through. It sounds like this engine has a cap & rotor style ignition. Check to make SURE the plug wire for cylinder 1 is pushed down tight on the spark plug and the distributor cap. If that doesn't resolve it, replace the spark plug. If that doesn't fix it, replace the plug wire. If that doesn't fix it then it's probably a crack in the distributor cap.

-Charles

[Quinner]

That particular GM cap is known to fail prematurely, if the plug looks good and wire was secure try a new cap. If still an issue try swapping plug wires, if issue moves to the swapped cylinder replace all the plug wires.

[bandit628]

Thanks guys.

I was wrong in saying the plug wires are new. But the spark plugs, rotor, and cap are all new.

The problem is much worse once the engine warms up. In just see searching this problem in general, could it be an O2 sensor?

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[charlesml3]

The problem is much worse once the engine warms up. In just see searching this problem in general, could it be an O2 sensor?

An O2 sensor would not deactivate one cylinder. In fact, the part about it getting worse after it warms up tends to make me think distributor cap.

-Charles

[Fgroce]

I agree start with the cheap stuff first. Go plug, wire, cap and rotor button. If you still have a issue check compression, or you could have a bad fuel injector. Hope this helps.

[homer12]

I'm not an expert here but I'd look to change the plug wires. If they heat up that could mean more resistance which would mean lack of voltage through wire to give you spark. Check obvious for tight connection first though as was already stated


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[bandit628]

It wasn't the cap and rotor. Tried a new one with no change. Used a plug wire tester and it had good spark.

Didn't think about the heat causing resistance change. Might try new plug wires.

At this point probably going to take it to the dealer.

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[DW SD]

It could be a fuel injector. Injector wiring. Or a vacuum leak affecting that single cylinder too.

A NOID light will tell you if the injector is getting pulses. That would confirm the injector wiring.

If you have a compression tester you might also check for compression.

In the end you need air / fuel, spark and compression to run.


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[rolleronariver]

I had a truck do this exact thing once. It ended up being the wire that was getting more resistance the warmer the truck got. $5 and it ran like new again.

[bandit628]

I hope it is something simple or at least fixable. At this point I'm in bit of freak out mode.

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[vanhanbr]

I would start by bringing it back to the dealer that did the tune-up. No use guessing at stuff.

[DW SD]

It could be a fuel injector. Injector wiring. Or a vacuum leak affecting that single cylinder too.

A NOID light will tell you if the injector is getting pulses. That would confirm the injector wiring.

If you have a compression tester you might also check for compression.

In the end you need air / fuel, spark and compression to run.


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You can also isolate a cylinder which isn't firing as it won't be hot at the exhaust port. Do you have a $30 infrared temp gun (harbor freight or amazon is a good source)? They are quite a cool little tool. Pointing at the exhaust outlet before the riser should identify which one isn't firing. From there, you can make other tests.

Doug