dual Batteries?

[93Euro]

So after 11 years, my original interstate battery is finally showing signs of going out. I've always had just the one battery, but have always worried about playing the music too long and running the battery dead. I have 2 amps, 4 in boat speakers, a sub, and 4 tower speakers. If I go dual batteries, do i run either a VSR or a maual switch? Or do I have to run both? Most of the stuff I read on here, I see both. But maybe its because the manual switch was there from the factory when they added the VSR? When I watch you tube videos on camping or off roading, They are just adding the 2nd battery and VSR. No switch.

[NautiqueJeff]

When I added a second battery to my 2003 210, I just used an automatic battery isolator/combiner and did not add a switch. That worked fine. I assume that's what you're asking about.

[93Euro]

When I added a second battery to my 2003 210, I just used an automatic battery isolator/combiner and did not add a switch. That worked fine. I assume that's what you're asking about.

Yes. I have this in my amazon cart. I think its what I need. Then I run everything stereo related to the 2nd battery, correct?

[MLA]

I suggest either a traditional dual bank switch or a proper switch and VSR/ACR setup.

No, you dont want loads, such as audio and other house loads, wired battery direct. The manual switch allows for the boat to be isolated from the batteries when not in use. The switch allows for combining the banks for emergency starting or to circumvent the ASR/ACR during times of a heavily depleted house bank.

For that kind of money, id be looking at a Blue, BEP or Surepower unit. Proven units.

[93Euro]

Thanks...I'll research those

[T-Rex]

BlueSea add a battery kit. Works great.

[a.klos]

I put surepower 1314 in my last two boats. It works great.

[peteSki]

I added a BlueSea isolator over the winter and it's been working great the this past month as we get back onto the water. It combines and isolates the second battery so I can run my stereo and a few other accessories without worry on draining the start battery. I chose not to install a manual battery switch, which really means I have no easy way of combining the batteries to start the boat should my start battery fail. The unit came with great instructions on how to wire it up with or without a manual battery switch.

Here's the link to the unit I bought and installed.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/761...12_24V_DC_120A

Good luck!

[93Euro]

I'm having a hard time making a decision. At first i thought no switch. I watched the blue sea add a battery video, and the switch made sense. I don't know. At least either way, I think blue sea seems the way to go

[peteSki]

I guess it depends on your wants and needs, for me I wanted my second battery to charge automatically and the BlueSea offered some pretty straight forward features. The switch I didn't go for as I don't plan on manually controlling the batts while on the water. My second batt is primarily to run the audio system and a few other low powered circuits. Granted it would be a nice feature if my start battery died as it would allow an easy switch to start the boat off the second batt, but I figured the odds are low (well, lowish), plus I carry some short jumper cables so if this happened I could jump the start batt from the second batt as they are quite close together in my boat.

It was a fun project to install, took me a month or so but I did it during our winter up here so there was no chance of using that boat at that time! Had the boat out 3 times now since install and it's been working rock solid. In my boat, I installed the BlueSea isolator under the observers seat way out of site from the driver, but I installed the indicator LED near the cockpit so I can see when the batteries are combined, isolated, and I also wired up the start isolation option as well which the LED also displays.

[MLA]

IMO, there is no advantage to NOT installing a manual switch along the ACR. The switch and ACR combo will give you the same benefits, and more. With the switch, you dont have to manually work the switch when out on the water. Get in the boat, turn the switch to ON, put the boat away for the day, turn the switch OFF, simple as that. Boat loads draw from main cranking and house loads draw from house bank.

With the switch, you get use the house bank to aid starting as needed. You are able to fully disconnect the batteries from ALL loads during storage, with the exception of the auto bilge, which I suggest leaving battery direct. If you have a dual bank charger, the switch allows for the ACR to be fully isolated from the charger when the charger is in use. Without the switch, the ACR senses the charger voltage and combines the banks.

[93Euro]

OK I ordered the add a battery kit. Since I brought the boat home to work on it and charged the battery, it has been starting fine. even listening to the stereo while working on it. I have the original "starting battery" and I have an optima blue top from 2008 that charged up fine too. I'm just gonna try to use those batteries and see how it goes. I know I've read batteries have to be same kind and same age...I've read one starting and one deep cycle. Who knows? since these are old I'll just see what happens

[xrichard]

I'm with MLA: Including the switch is all upside. Well, I suppose the downside is slightly more cost and time to install.

One thing to keep in mind: if you wire the Blue Sea kit the way the manual shows, you cannot charge the batteries independently with a two bank charger because the relay will close and combine the two. That's fine if you put a charger on one battery and use it to close the relay to charge both. But the starting and house/stereo battery are often in different conditions and you might want to use separate chargers or a two bank charger for them especially for conditioning. In that case, you'll want to wire it a bit differently. PM me if you want my wiring diagram--I ran it by the technical guys at Blue Sea and they agreed it's better for a trailer boat that sits with a charger on the batteries.

[peteSki]

I'm with MLA: Including the switch is all upside. Well, I suppose the downside is slightly more cost and time to install.

One thing to keep in mind: if you wire the Blue Sea kit the way the manual shows, you cannot charge the batteries independently with a two bank charger because the relay will close and combine the two. That's fine if you put a charger on one battery and use it to close the relay to charge both. But the starting and house/stereo battery are often in different conditions and you might want to use separate chargers or a two bank charger for them especially for conditioning. In that case, you'll want to wire it a bit differently. PM me if you want my wiring diagram--I ran it by the technical guys at Blue Sea and they agreed it's better for a trailer boat that sits with a charger on the batteries.

Good point. I found an easy fix for this was to pull the 10A fuse that is used on the ground of the BlueSea isolator, which renders it inoperable and hence won't ever combine batteries, then I had a charger going on each battery. I did that over the winter months to maintain both batteries independently. Doubt I'll need to charge them manually during the season as I get enough use of the boat to keep them fresh.

[MLA]

Good point. I found an easy fix for this was to pull the 10A fuse that is used on the ground of the BlueSea isolator, which renders it inoperable and hence won't ever combine batteries, then I had a charger going on each battery. I did that over the winter months to maintain both batteries independently. Doubt I'll need to charge them manually during the season as I get enough use of the boat to keep them fresh.

You dont have to do that. There is a proper way to wire the ACR so its out of the loop when using charger. No need to uplug anything that might get forgotten next trip out.