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Thee heaters on my ZR6 390 are truly awful! The engine operates at 160F, however the takeoff hose to the heater and subsequently the heater is not particularly warm. Is this normal for the engine, would it be worth considering adding an in line circulation pump? Alternatively pick up a less restrictive heater core?
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I remember that some of the ZR6 engines I had had this issue too. I don't think it is the heater core. I think it is a circulation issue. Adding the pump would probably fix it, although I never did it to mine.I own and operate Silver Cove Marine, which is an inboard boat restoration, service, and sales facility located in Mooresville, North Carolina. We specializes in Nautiques and Correct Crafts, and also provide general service for Nautiques fifteen years old and older.
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You really have to keep the idle up to keep the flow going. Sitting still at low rpm kills the circulation. So when you're sitting still keep the Rpms upComment
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After further investigation..... I've figured out part of the problem. The boat has an LPG conversion so the outlet from the heater passes through the LPG regulator (to stop the expanding gas freezing) then onward to the heater. An in line diaphragm pump,has been added and given its flow rate, it will certainly be contributing to the cool heaters. I'll swap,the diaphragm pump out for a centrifugal circulation pump and see how that improves things.
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quick question, the heater has two connections (obviously!!), one on the heat exchanger and one on the block. Does anybody know the water flow direction, i.e.
heat exchanger -boat heater - block
or
block - boat heater - heat exchanger
thanks!Last edited by ally505; 05-17-2017, 02:49 AM.Comment
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Was someone actually running your boat on propane? Did you buy it from Hank Hill? Lol.Originally posted by ally505 View Post
Joking aside, my old Malibu with a raw water cooled Indmar 350 didn't hardly put out any heat at idol. It was much better once you got the rpm's up and more water circulating.2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200Comment
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It's quite common in Europe to have boats running dual fuel, makes fueling a lot less damaging to the wallet.
After having checked a few drawings, I am now satisfied that the barb on the block is the flow side and the barb on the heat exchanger is the return side.Last edited by ally505; 05-17-2017, 12:51 PM.Comment
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So...... I added a circulation pump and TBH there was no significant improvement in heat output, so I've removed the standard 2 port heater and replaced with this http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/...ed-heater.html
I used the same heater in my last boat and it was HOT, not lukewarm as I get now. There is some strange hose running in these boats, the standard heater is a two outlet, although the boat had three outlets (two hot tubes and a defrost) The outlet to the vent behind the driver tee's off somewhere behind the throttle control and feeds back to the dash. Daft design as every unnecessary bend and turn reduces the efficiency of the heater. Hopefully I can access the tee and remove it completely as I have no need for the defrost. The four outlet heater has allowed me to add two additional outlets which I am sure will be useful.Comment
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