03 SANTE 210/Excalibur 330 Shredded impeller, problems escalating to hydrolock.

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  • j-rob
    • Oct 2016
    • 51

    • Kemah, Tx

    • 03 SANTE

    03 SANTE 210/Excalibur 330 Shredded impeller, problems escalating to hydrolock.

    So while out for a lunch cruise the other day, our temps spiked at idle speed, 196 was highest observed temp. Cut the motor and threw the anchor immediately. I pulled the raw water pump to effect a repair on water, since I had a spare and tools in the boat. Impeller was completely shredded. I pulled the discharge hose from the pump to the v-drive inlet and flushed out some more impeller pieces. We collected what we thought to be roughly 80% of the impeller chunks and I also disconnected the inlet to the thermostat housing then fired the engine up for about 30 second to flush out anything to that point.
    I also removed the strainer bowl to inspect that since I had beached up the previous day. Light debris noted, nothing major.

    Fired it up and the temps were climbing at Idle, so I put it on plane, Temps dropped dramatically, down to 140 actually, then increased slowly to 155 where they stabilized, which is where my boat normally runs. Perfect, job done then...

    Entering the channel we dropped back to idle speed, when temps began to rise again rapidly. Shortly reached 190 where the alarm went off and I once again shut it down immediately. Managed to get it trailered since the boat ramp was close by and put it in the driveway where I continued testing off the hose. Reading all the threads I could find I double checked everything from the impeller direction to pump orientation, to the strainer gasket.

    1-Established what I think to be good/normal flow all the way to the riser inlets through the cooling system, at idle RPM. Replaced thermostat somewhere in there with a 140 since that's all they had at west marine. Stock is 160, but we run in bathwater down here in Houston anyway. Should be fine right?

    2-Air bubbles observed in strainer bowl. All inlet fittings and strainer assembly itself seem to be tight. While checking for leaks I closed the though hull valve to pressurize those fittings with the hose, no leaks observed.

    3-Removed strainer assembly to place inlet hose in bucket and check for bubbles. Attempted to start motor for this test and it locked up.

    4-Removed all plugs, Cylinder 5 full of water.

    5-Purge water, compression check.
    Cyl 1-185
    Cyl 2-190
    Cyl 3-180
    Cyl 4-190
    Cyl 5-180-Water
    Cyl 6-185
    Cyl 7-180
    Cyl 8-190

    6-Reinstalled plugs and proceeded with bucket test. Air bubbles still observed, suspected bad strainer housing at this point.

    7-Plumbed strainer back up normally and hooked up hose to run motor. Engine locked on startup again. Pulled plugs, more water out of Cylinder 5.

    One theory is that I popped an intake gasket with water hose pressure...this seems thin to me. Possible?

    Another theory is that we blew a head gasket resulting in identical compression numbers on 3,5,7 with 5 being the flooded one.

    A slightly more grim theory that I cooked up is that perhaps some of that impeller made it's way into the block and is clogging something internal, thus resulting in my still climbing temps at idle. Further, with observed ET climbing to 180 prior to me shutting it down in the driveway I have to wonder, if a journal is clogged in a water jacket somewhere, is one section/cylinder of the block getting super heated, while the rest remains relatively cool?

    Leak down test is next on the list which should tell us if it's the head gasket or just the intake gasket. I suppose at that point I can return to troubleshooting the climbing temps at idle issue.

    If anyone has any suggestions, tips, input, ideas, experience, theories, clever jokes, positive vibes or Houston locality and a willingness to turn wrenches, I am 110% open to all of the above.

    Here are some pictures of my predicament.
    Thanks for tuning in. Click image for larger version

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  • charlesml3
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jan 2008
    • 2454

    • Lake Gaston, NC

    • 2022 G23

    #2
    Are you saying you have water INSIDE the #5 cylinder? If that's the case, then we're far beyond the thermostat and impeller problem. If there's water in there, you're going to have to pull that head and see what's going on. Most likely it's the head gasket. You need to address this now.... it won't get any better.

    -Charles

    Comment

    • Sac Surfer
      • Jun 2011
      • 282

      • Mayfied NY, Burlington VT

      • 2010 - 210 Team Edition

      #3
      Man that impeller is seriously shredded. I change mine every 100 hours or so, here is the one I just pulled out this season. I think you need to check the head if you have water in the cylinder then it's something Click image for larger version

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ID:	521108 much more then cooling system.

      Comment

      • j-rob
        • Oct 2016
        • 51

        • Kemah, Tx

        • 03 SANTE

        #4
        Originally posted by charlesml3 View Post
        Are you saying you have water INSIDE the #5 cylinder? If that's the case, then we're far beyond the thermostat and impeller problem. If there's water in there, you're going to have to pull that head and see what's going on. Most likely it's the head gasket. You need to address this now.... it won't get any better.

        -Charles
        Yes, correct. And yea...Clearly not going to try to run the motor in this condition. Next step is leak down test to verify head gasket integrity or failure. Could potentially be the intake gasket. That would be a little easier at least.

        Comment

        • homer12
          Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
          • Feb 2016
          • 584

          • Indianapolis, IN

          • 2004 SV211 TE

          #5
          I'm pretty green here when it comes to engine troubleshooting of this nature, but does an intake gasket cause the cooling issue while filling up a cylinder too? Is it possible the block has a crack in it?

          Comment

          • j-rob
            • Oct 2016
            • 51

            • Kemah, Tx

            • 03 SANTE

            #6
            Leak down test passed 100%. Head gasket is fine, I can confidently move forward with replacing the intake gasket. Going to go through the entire cooling system again and probably replace the impeller again just to be sure.

            Comment

            • Fgroce
              • Dec 2016
              • 179

              • Middle Georgia

              • 2002 Ski Nautique

              #7
              Glad it passed the leak down test, Hopefully the intake gaskets will fix the problem. Good luck

              Comment

              • j-rob
                • Oct 2016
                • 51

                • Kemah, Tx

                • 03 SANTE

                #8
                Looks like starboard side head is cracked. Looking to order new heads off summit racing for $320 each. Does anyone know if there is any reason the standard chevy heads wouldn't work? PCM "marine" heads are triple the price and I'm pretty sure it's because they use that word...can't see any difference.

                Comment

                • rcazwillis
                  • Feb 2014
                  • 117

                  • Fort Worth, TX

                  • 2002 SANTE

                  #9
                  My 2002 appears to have vortec heads based on valve covers. As long as it is a vortec head, should work. The summit ones are good value.

                  Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

                  Comment

                  • Fgroce
                    • Dec 2016
                    • 179

                    • Middle Georgia

                    • 2002 Ski Nautique

                    #10
                    One difference is the casting plugs are made out of brass for Marine.

                    Comment

                    • j-rob
                      • Oct 2016
                      • 51

                      • Kemah, Tx

                      • 03 SANTE

                      #11
                      Update,
                      Heads were 100% fine.
                      Stbd side riser gasket was the culprit for the water intrusion. Turns out, that is the most common failure mode resulting in water in cylinders. Seems to be well known among local shops. While everything was open I did remove a lot of ancient impeller (not the same as mine, so clearly from previous owner) out of the water jacket and V-drive.
                      At this point I have assembled about 95% of my impeller, with only missing pieces being tiny, and about 10-20% of someone else's impeller.

                      Cleaned everything up, and put back together with new head, intake, exhaust, and riser gaskets. Engine running smooth as ever.

                      Still have climbing temps though!! I ran out of time at home so I will have to wait 6 weeks before I can resume trouble shooting, but next steps will be to:

                      Remove raw water pump for thorough inspection, and probably replace impeller again. I see threads that say to use the gasket, and I see some that say to use the Oring...I use the oring because that is what was installed when I pulled it apart. I guess I'll try the gasket this time.

                      Also going to replace the Thermostat with a PCM 160 again, and get new temp sensors.

                      Pulled the circ pump which seems to be fine.

                      On the plus side, now I know how to work on a small block chevy!

                      Comment

                      • homer12
                        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                        • Feb 2016
                        • 584

                        • Indianapolis, IN

                        • 2004 SV211 TE

                        #12
                        Nice work man! Very satisfying to do your own work in my opinion. Did you pull the whole engine or work on it in the boat?


                        Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

                        Comment

                        • j-rob
                          • Oct 2016
                          • 51

                          • Kemah, Tx

                          • 03 SANTE

                          #13
                          Originally posted by homer12 View Post
                          Nice work man! Very satisfying to do your own work in my opinion. Did you pull the whole engine or work on it in the boat?


                          Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
                          We geared up to pull the whole engine because I thought it had locked up. Turned out that somehow a tiny set screw made it's way into cylinder 7, where it was imbedded in the piston and bound up against the head....No idea where the f*** it came from or how it got in there, but the bottom end turned over just fine with the heads pulled so we left it at that . With the divider panels, fat sacs, and rear hatch covers pulled, working on the motor installed in the boat is a breeze. It is indeed quite satisfying to complete the work myself, with the help of a good buddy that knows chevy motors.
                          Unfortunately still fighting the cooling issues, but that seems like small potatoes at this point. Hoping to have it sorted in short order once I get home.
                          You can see in the pictures where the screw was embedded in the piston.
                          Also we added some nitro since we were in there Click image for larger version  Name:	20170521_010249.jpg Views:	1 Size:	37.6 KB ID:	523542
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                          Last edited by j-rob; 06-04-2017, 09:04 AM.

                          Comment

                          • Silver_Kitsune
                            • Aug 2023
                            • 1

                            • Seattle WA

                            • 2003 SANTE 210 330 Excalibur

                            #14
                            i am also having these issues on my 2003 SANTE. did you ever find the root problem?

                            Comment

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