The same thing happened yesterday on my 16 G21. The dial was free-wheeling so I pullled the panel off to access the back of the switch and it had broken in half. I was able to bypass the switch by bolting both battery leads to the upper left cable that went to the ignition. At least we made it out on the lake, but the boat seems to new and expensive to have such a crappy plastic part break and almost kill a day of boating.
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Same thing happened to us. Battery switch has been getting looser and looser the last few weeks. Sometimes would come on and crank in the Off position. Then yesterday was free wheeling and could not crank. Dropped the panel under steering and the switch had come apart on inside. Took a small piece of wood and pushed it back tight while my Son tried to crank. It worked! Drove it slowly to the marina. Those cables under there are definitely too large and stiff for that small switch!!! Nautique you guys blew it on that!!
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I replaced me mine (2013 230) last year with the older style...hoping bigger means stronger. Had to cut out a larger hole, but was able to make it work.
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2013 SAN 230
2006 SSN 210 (SOLD)
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I just thought i'd add that Blue Sea m-series had failures through-out many boat builders in the industry (boards of many boating sites are littered with photos of the same failure). I understand the backing plate as Nautiques solution to the weakness in the Blue Sea design. Blue Sea has redesigned the m-series switches (see below) here is what Blue Sea sent me in e-mail correspondence I recently had with them:Sorry to hear about the trouble. Send me a shipping address and I will get a replacement out for you. Your m-Switch has an "As long as you own it" warranty. The m-Series switches are the smallest plastic battery switches we make, and so require a few specific installation requirements. They were not desiged to support the weight of heavy battery cables. Please see tips below. Torque and Support being the most important to make note of. Make sure to tighten the cable stud fasteners to only 120 Inch pounds of torque.
Please ask if you have any additional questions.
m-Series Battery Switch Installation Tips- Proper terminal stud torque: 120 Inch pounds max. Over torqueing will damage internal assemble bosses and lead to future failure.
- Wire and cable support: The wires and cables attached to the M-Switch must be supported. The case cannot support multiple large cables and may fail if cables are left hanging from the terminal studs. ABYC recommends support every 18 inches max. We recommend no strain from cables, either hanging or from tight radiuses, be allowed to exert force on the back case of the switch. Figure 1.
- Flat mounting surface: Insure mounting surface is flat. Mounting on a curved or irregular surface may distort the case when tightening fasteners.
2011 SANTE 210 ZR409 (6.0L)
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Apr 2015
- 1295
- Martinez, GA/Lake Greenwood, SC
- 2017 GS20 Previous: 2011 SAN 210, 2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200
Originally posted by Kporsch View PostThey are known to break. I had one break on my 2013. My buddy had one break on his 2016. There is a fix to prevent them from breaking that I added on my 2017 G23 which is basically a metal ring that prevents the plastic from breaking. Here is a pic(the fix is the thin black metal plate):
Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200
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I had this happen last night on my 2016 G23, it is about a 10-15 minute fix to get the boat going so don't let this ruin your weekend. Here is what you need to do.
There is a #1 and #2 position for the battery and same for going to the breakers. if you connect the #1's and #2's your switch is now wired on all the time. Since the breakers are all past the switch they are still operational for over current. Use caution with tools as there are grounds in the area but not close. Also wrap or wire tie the broken switch so it doesn't shake and short to a ground while underway.
1) Remove the panel under the steering console - just pull straight down
2) Remove the most forward facing #2 bolt and red wire and connect it to the Rear #2 Red breaker stud on the switch. (Black Line in picture)
3) Same for the #1 (Red line in picture)
Go enjoy your boat and order a switch.
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This just broke on my 2017 G21. Luckily still under warranty and part was stocked locally. Was in the middle of the lake when the electronics started resetting. Slowed down and got to a friend's dock before it completely failed. Adding a few photos that might help others. Disappointing that Nautique now knows they engineered improperly and yet haven't issued a recall. This is a safety issue that feels like a big liability exposure.....
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1,000 Post Club Member
- May 2013
- 2795
- Smith Mountain Lake, VA (Craddock Creek area)
- 2017 G23 Coastal Edition H6 | 2001 Sport Nautique | 1981 Ski Nautique
Yeah I had an issue with my battery switch on my 2017 G23 and I could hear the electrical arching occurring behind the plastic switch. Very dangerous. I immediately called SeaTow to be towed back to my lift after I could not get my boat to start while at someone's dock. My dealer keeps these in inventory because he says they fail all the time. Nautique really needs to address this issue as well as the faulty ballast sensors. Both seems to be constant problems for many owners. Glad both were covered under warranty as well for me.
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The Switch is made by Blue Sea System, and it has been addressed by Blue Sea. A new more robust housing is whats on the market now. With that said, a contributing factor is the stiff, low strand count cabling correct craft uses, with little strain relief on the cables near the switch.
Hundreds of boat builders use Blue Sea switches, yet this only seems to be an issue on CC and maybe one or 2 more brands.
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1,000 Post Club Member
- May 2013
- 2795
- Smith Mountain Lake, VA (Craddock Creek area)
- 2017 G23 Coastal Edition H6 | 2001 Sport Nautique | 1981 Ski Nautique
MLA, my switch just went out this summer and like I said was replace under warranty. Do you think the replacement switch in my boat is the new and improved Blue Sea switch or just the same model as the one which went out on me? Just trying to figure out when Blue Sea made the upgrade.
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This happened on my 17 210 SANTE last year. I ended up removing the switch on a Saturday at my dock, took it to the dealer, they handed me a new one and I drove home and installed it.
It wasted 2 hours of my time to do the whole thing but got back up and on the lake that afternoon. Not a tough thing to fix with a few tools.
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