2000 SAN lacks power when ballast are full

[erikj]

I think getting the numbers off the prop and getting your top speed (and RPM) would be a good starting point. These both cost nothing and we can see if the boat is under powered or just under propped or both.

Let's do this before changing the gas/filter and doing the tune up. Then you have a base line to see if anything changes.

What elevation are you at?

Edit: Numbers for the prop are under the prop nut. I can't make them out in the pic you posted.

Looks like it is an acme c922 **not correct, I will take the nut off today to see** even though i cant really find that model number online but i did leave a message for acme and i know it is an acme for sure because it has their phone number stamped into it as well.

The lakes we boat are around 6100 to 6500ft.

Ill be doing the rpm test next time out.

Thanks

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[nyryan2001]

1. Don't use the term "power loss". You weighting the boat down till it gets stuck is not power loss.

here are your options:

1. Shift weight to the bow to improve the prop shaft angle. You are likely pushing the boat up vs pushing forward. This is huge and can make a big difference. You can sometimes carry more weight if you keep the bow down.

2. Reduce weight.

3. Change prop. Go max diameter within .5" of the hull, and 12 pitch. So a 14x12 or 14.5x12.

[erikj]

Thanks nyryan2001 I hear ya about power loss and the engine is solid so you are probably right. Great idea to put the ski locker bag forward becuse I did notice last time we were out that it slid back further than i would want it. Has anyone or you found a way to keep the ski locker bag from sliding back?

I did find out that my prop is an Acme 1464 which is supposedly a really good prop even for elevation but I'm going to chat with Acme about it just to make sure.

[erikj]

seth Looks like it is the correct prop, the Acme 1464 predecessor to the 1578. The acme guy thought there was a chance that it was repair at one point and not to spec so i might try that next.

[Blamey]

I run 27-28MPH at 3500 RPM's
30 MPH at 4000 RPM's
32-33 MPH at 4500 RPM's

I don't usually go higher than that and don't need to go any faster for the most part.

From another post discussing prop numbers. You could use this as a basis. Hopefully Core rider might will see this and comment that this was unweighted.

[erikj]

Blamey that will be good numbers to look at, looks like my prop is right, still will most likely do a plug change and hope for the best. The dudes at Acme are amazing cool and he gave me some good suggestions too

[seth]

Yep you have the right prop. Now throw that 540 sack across the front seats in the bow and see how that goes, it should get on plane a lot easier. I had a custom Fly High sack made for the ski locker because it is so long. Stick your head in there and you will see that the ski locker goes all the way to the nose of the boat. A lot of guys were sticking the rear seat sack in there which works well to. At this point it just sounds to me that you don't have enough weight in the bow. For reference, I was running 750's in the back, ski locker sack that filled it entirely, triangle nose sack under the front seats in the bow, and 240lbs of lead hidden in the bow. A good general rule of thumb is start with 50/50 weight distribution and then mess with it from there.

[erikj]

Yep you have the right prop. Now throw that 540 sack across the front seats in the bow and see how that goes, it should get on plane a lot easier. I had a custom Fly High sack made for the ski locker because it is so long. Stick your head in there and you will see that the ski locker goes all the way to the nose of the boat. A lot of guys were sticking the rear seat sack in there which works well to. At this point it just sounds to me that you don't have enough weight in the bow. For reference, I was running 750's in the back, ski locker sack that filled it entirely, triangle nose sack under the front seats in the bow, and 240lbs of lead hidden in the bow. A good general rule of thumb is start with 50/50 weight distribution and then mess with it from there.

Thanks Seth, sounds like a plan, going to take her on a test run tomorrow and give it a whirl

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[nyryan2001]

ACMe 1464. 13.5x14.25

terrible prop for where you Boat at that elevatoin and what you are trying to do.

14-14.5 Diameter. As large as you can go to get no closer than .5 within the hull.

12" pitch.

be careful who you take advice from. The old guys at ACME are not wakeboat owners, and they aren't shelling out $500 a prop. Little to no skin in the game. If their reccomendation doesn't look like mine, they are in left field.

take advice from guys who have ran 10-15 props at personal expense.

[erikj]

ACMe 1464. 13.5x14.25

terrible prop for where you Boat at that elevatoin and what you are trying to do.

14-14.5 Diameter. As large as you can go to get no closer than .5 within the hull.

12" pitch.

be careful who you take advice from. The old guys at ACME are not wakeboat owners, and they aren't shelling out $500 a prop. Little to no skin in the game. If their reccomendation doesn't look like mine, they are in left field.

take advice from guys who have ran 10-15 props at personal expense.

Yeah I hear that but Todd at acme wasnt trying to sell me a new prop he was just saying that he would have recommend the 1578 which is the new version of the same prop that I have, the 1464. What prop would you recommend for 1500-2000# of ballast at 6500ft plus 4 or so people?

Thx

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[nyryan2001]

ACME 2570. 14x12 right hand or ACME 2078 14.5x12. End of story.

I cringe at some of the "expert" reccomendations I hear coming from ACME and Wakemakers both. The only vendor I know that absolutely understands wakeboats is Eric at OJ.

These will feel like a 100hp power increase from what you have now.

In your situation, high altitude and heavy weights, you gotta drop pitch. Take smaller steps as you climb the mountain...with 200lbs on our back. You cant stride out. Smaller steps. Right now with a 14"+ pitch you're trying to sprint.

you wanna see ~4000+ RPMs the second you hammer the throttle (less pitch smaller steps)... THAT along with less prop slip (more grab at 14-14.5" dia) will give you your most absolute fastest launch with heaviest weights.

now.... understand... you will run higher RPMs for all activities and burn more fuel.... but I'd be willing to bet either of these props would muscle up the weight you are struggling with now.... with possibility for more weight.

[erikj]

Thanks Ryan, makes sense to me, ill do a little looking around and it would be nice if i could get a used one, especially since a spare isnt a bad thing. Not a huge fan of burning more fuel but would like the faster plane and more weight.

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[nyryan2001]

You're not going to find a used one in this size. It's too new, and so few folks have a real understanding of how dia and pitch relate to wakeboat performance.

The only folks who order 14x12 are folks in 20-21ft wakeboats that really understand props and wanna go max.

This is not a prop for skiing or cruising. It's a max max weight prop.

its not till the last 18-24 months that it's really permeated that's the 1235 is by NO means the ultimate stump puller for 15" props. 2315 is by a country mile. Lots of snake oil and bad info out there.

[homer12]

I think prop research is heading in the right direction. However, when I've had a new boat to me and unknown maintenance history I like to take care of things like the tune up and fuel filters anyway so I have a baseline for when these were done. I'd either run all the way out or drain the old gas and then change fuel filter and do the tune up. Just good practice regardless of your underpowered issue


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[seth]

It sounds like nyryan has the lowdown on the prop evolution, which really makes sense from a common sense standpoint. Ive been out of the wake boat scene for about 2 years. I would go with what he says. Just really keep in mind retaining at least .5" between prop and hull. If the prop is to close it can result in "prop burn" where it will start pitting the hull.