Belly ballast sending unit impossible access.

[Aebert2668]

I have a bad belly ballast sending unit in a 2006 SAN. I can access the screws with a ratching screw driver, but I have 3 inches of floor access to remove a 10 inch sending unit, WTF. I hope I'm missing some unique trick otherwise CC put no thought into this. Any ideas, tricks? Also, if your pumps will fill but not drain you have a bad sending unit-2006 at least probably others. I used my good sending unit to trick the belly tank into draining. Quick connect the electrical and hoist boat on lift or trailer, listen for water and pump whine while holding float switch in up position. At least I got it drained.

[Mlagrone]

I am curious about this thread, I need to replace all 3 of my Jabsco POS pumps. My boat is a 2006 SANTE 220 with 280 hours and they are done... during testing I put volt meter on the pump wires coming from the dash. I get +12vdc when in the fill mode but when in the drain mode I get 0 on all three tanks. I was worried before seeing this thread. I am electrician by trade and I know that the pumps reverse when the polarity is reversed. So when in drain mode I should get -12VDC. But my thanks are empty so is there a float or a sender in them that prevents the pumps to drain while empty?? that will explain why all 3 of my pumps do not drain while empty right??

[t.franscioni]

Gotta remove the gas tank then you can slide the belly tank back enough to pull the sending unit out. Belly tank in my 2002 was also attached with bolts and screws two brackets in the rear of the tank which were easily acessable and one screw securing the top front of the tank. Has to remove the little carpeted bow floor panel to access the front tank screw located under the bow floor panel.

[rlwagens]

I'd have to look at mine again in the morning but if there isn't room to angle it and pull it out you should be able to remove the observers seat so the hatch will open further.

Edit: Ahh never mind, I see you're working with a 220 not a 210.

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[d_nodixon]

I am curious about this thread, I need to replace all 3 of my Jabsco POS pumps. My boat is a 2006 SANTE 220 with 280 hours and they are done... during testing I put volt meter on the pump wires coming from the dash. I get +12vdc when in the fill mode but when in the drain mode I get 0 on all three tanks. I was worried before seeing this thread. I am electrician by trade and I know that the pumps reverse when the polarity is reversed. So when in drain mode I should get -12VDC. But my thanks are empty so is there a float or a sender in them that prevents the pumps to drain while empty?? that will explain why all 3 of my pumps do not drain while empty right??

Disconnect the wire coupler at the tank and insert a jumper wire first...check the pumps on empty with the jumper wire. The pumps will fill but not empty if they are disconnected. This will help you trouble shoot, perhaps faulty sending unit or a short?

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[Aebert2668]

Thanks for the responses guys! On the sending unit the pumps will stop pumping when empty, however a bad sending unit will allow you to fill the tank but not empty it. The resistance in the float switch is lowest when EMPTY! Highest when full. Pull your sending units and test at 200K with an ohm meter, slide float up an d down with test probes connected to quick disconnect. You should get .04 on low to .24 on high, if you get a constant .04 or any other constant number while moving the float your sender is toast. If you have on good sender you can drain the tanks by holding it in the full position until you hear pump whine.

[d_nodixon]

Oh yeah, check the connections at the back of the gauges, they can come loose

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[Aebert2668]

You will need to remove the sender from tank in order to move the float up and down, otherwise you'll just get the empty resistance level. Only 5 hexhead screws, the gasket only realigns one way!

[jkallen21]

I made this video which might help with these "not draining" issues. I forgot to mention in this video that there are some breakers at the kick panel for fill and drain for each tank as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDaHGbA97ug

[jkallen21]

Back to the topic that started this thread, I also need to access the belly sender. This is a huge PITA to remove the gas tank and then the ballast. I’m considering drilling an access hatch in the floor right above the sender. I know that probably sent chills down your spine and caused more silence than a fart in church. But here is kinda what I’m thinking about:
https://www.beckson.com/screwout.html
I’d need an awful big circular drill bit I assume. Thoughts?

[jkallen21]

I am curious about this thread, I need to replace all 3 of my Jabsco POS pumps. My boat is a 2006 SANTE 220 with 280 hours and they are done... during testing I put volt meter on the pump wires coming from the dash. I get +12vdc when in the fill mode but when in the drain mode I get 0 on all three tanks. I was worried before seeing this thread. I am electrician by trade and I know that the pumps reverse when the polarity is reversed. So when in drain mode I should get -12VDC. But my thanks are empty so is there a float or a sender in them that prevents the pumps to drain while empty?? that will explain why all 3 of my pumps do not drain while empty right??

It’s unlikely all 3 pumps died at the same time. I’d investigate the run-dry sensor under the dash as it can take out the drain capability of all 3 pumps and they will show 0 volts in drain mode if that sensor isn’t working. You can reverse polarity on your own into a pump (swap the wires using some alligator clips). Then press to fill the tanks and they’ll actually run in reverse and drain (if they work). This might help you avoid a costly and possibly unnecessary pump swap.

[biacs]

Its unlikely all 3 pumps died at the same time. Id investigate the run-dry sensor under the dash as it can take out the drain capability of all 3 pumps and they will show 0 volts in drain mode if that sensor isnt working. You can reverse polarity on your own into a pump (swap the wires using some alligator clips). Then press to fill the tanks and theyll actually run in reverse and drain (if they work). This might help you avoid a costly and possibly unnecessary pump swap.

[mention]jkallen21 [/mention] did you ever end up cutting in an access panel? My belly sending unit is DOA. I’m actually OK with cutting in a panel because it’ll be under the carpet. I was just curious what you ended up doing with your belly ballast sending unit


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[jkallen21]

Ugh - it’s on my list. I just scoped the job again last month. Right now I just swap port side pump with belly and pump water out. It’s such a pain to do correctly because I have to plan for it at a time when the boat is low on fuel (so I can more the tank) and I have the right tools at the boat on that day. Kills me.

[biacs]

Ugh - it’s on my list. I just scoped the job again last month. Right now I just swap port side pump with belly and pump water out. It’s such a pain to do correctly because I have to plan for it at a time when the boat is low on fuel (so I can more the tank) and I have the right tools at the boat on that day. Kills me.

I bought electric contact cleaner. Using a skinny red straw off another can, I sprayed both connectors for the sending unit. They are now watertight.

Mine started working on the trailer to drain the last bit. So try the cleaner on both connectors!

I’ll run it this weekend, fingers crossed!


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[jkallen21]

I'm definitely going to try that. Thanks for the tip!