HELP! Front ballast was cut

[markj]

I think this may end up an issue I'm forced to take to the dealer, but I'd rather fix it myself if I can and avoid down time. There's a 3"-4" cut across the top of my front ballast tank in my 2015 230. I believe it happened at the factory during assembly somehow and has been getting worse since the boat was new-now that I think about it. I don't believe it's getting longer. It almost looks like a jagged edge of something drug across it, almost cut through and over time it gave way and opened up finally. The real problem is the lack of access. It's right under the walk-through, between the cabin and the bow. I've taken the floor out, removed everything I could and all I got was some bloody scars from shards of fiberglass edges that weren't ground down. Also found a lot of things (nuts, bolts, washers, tools) left by the factory workers. (even a pretty heavy duty nylon sling)

I tried using some marine JB Weld putty to patch it (had to use a long spoon to place it and mash it down) and it failed immediately when I filled it up a day later. I don't know what will permanently bond and adhere to the textured surface of a ballast tank. Any ideas?

[scottb7]

yeah, very bad situation....cause anything you do they can give you crap about covering the warranty. I wonder if this would work https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8411.../dp/B000ALBZK8

lol on all the stuff you found in bottom of boat...nice to see nothing ever changes...I found so many screw and stuff in bottom of my 2008 210. nautique quality = leave you some extra stuff in case you need later.

Scott

[charlesml3]

There's a 3"-4" cut across the top of my front ballast tank in my 2015 230.

This is purely a warranty item. You might find some way to stop it from getting worse, but you need to get your dealer involved.

-Charles

[markj]

I'd be content to find something to just patch it as long as it made a solid, flexible, reliable bond. Not sure what sticks and bonds to these tanks...... Clearly not JB Weld marine stuff.

[Tom_H]

Seeing as the putty didn't work, I'd be looking at probably a marine epoxy and some sort of patch material (cut out a piece of like plastic) and epoxy the patch piece over the hole with a decent overlap all-around. You'll want to make sure you clean/de-grease both surfaces and roughen them up if you can. And since you can't clamp it like would be ideal, toss as much weight on top of the patch piece while curing as you can fit in there.

And if that works, then you can have the dealer deal with it in the off-season.

Edit to add: 3M has a pretty extensive line of different plastic adhesives, most of which you can source from McMaster, but it'll take some research to determine what the tank material is and what the applicable adhesive/epoxy would be. A word of caution though, they can add up fast on the cost. The plastic is most likely to be polyethylene or polypropylene

[markj]

Yeah it's just finding out what's compatible with the plastic of the tank.

[Tom_H]

Yep. Really, plastic welding it is the true fix, but I'm assuming you probably don't have the necessary access to get the welder head in there, and again, you need to know the exact type of plastic - but you can do that by trial/error just seeing what sticks to the tank.

[markj]

So... the more I look at this, the more it looks like a stress fracture. It makes me wonder if there's a support bushing(s) missing under the front of the tank. After studying it upside down for awhile, I realize it' runs along an inside curve of the tank. The tank has a step down as it gets closer to the front of the bow.

[markj]

Trying to post pics, but it says pics are limited to 680X0. Not sure what that means.

[functionoverfashion]

I would at least get the dealer involved to the point that they are aware of the problem, have pictures, etc. and can document it. That might make things easier in the warranty process if you wait until the off-season and/or have messed with it a bunch on your own by then.

How about 3M 5200? That's what's often used to bond underwater gear to the hull - that or 4200 which is "less permanent" haha.

[markj]

Yeah I do have the dealer involved. They called the factory and the factory says there's no way to patch it due to what the tank is made out of. They said nothing will stick to it since there's oil in the plastic that's used. They said the tank has to come out and be replaced. I think I'm gonna try 3M 5200 to see if it will work temporarily at least. Can't hurt right?

[Tom_H]

That's not completely true that 'nothing' will work to patch/repair it; but it is the response I expected due to the difficulty of a true repair (which the dealer won't have staff with the experience needed), it'll be cheaper and easier to just replace.

Regarding 5200 - unlikely that it will work as it has very little strength on polyethylene or polypropylene - so don't hold your breath. 5200 is more for wood/fiberglass/gel-coat and other high energy surfaces. Scotchweld would be the better adhesive to try for the low-energy plastics.

[markj]

Good to know. One thing that surprised me is the factory said the tank is removable. You have to remove the gas tank first. As for Scotchweld, I'll look it up. I'm open to try anything. I tried some stuff called Scotchcoat last night in a test area with marginal results. I have serious doubts that anything will stick. Sucks to have this issue in the middle of the season.

[traves_peterson]

I'm pretty sure I responded to a similar question but don't see it here. Try the flexseal tape. That stuff seems to stick to everything. It's worth a try and you will know right away. It's available at Menards for like 12 bucks.

[surroundsound64]

I'm pretty sure I responded to a similar question but don't see it here. Try the flexseal tape. That stuff seems to stick to everything. It's worth a try and you will know right away. It's available at Menards for like 12 bucks.

I was thinking the same thing. And if it doesn't work, you'll have yourself a class action!