Excal 330 won't start and low oil warning

[homer12]

Here's the background - my wife is having a girls weekend at the lake. I'm at home with the kids. Boat has ran great all summer. She goes out for a cruise around the lake, maybe some throttle hesitation she says but maybe there was 9 girls in the boat and not used to what that feels like. Goes to anchor and sit a while. Goes to leave and boat won't accelerate. She assumes there was a bunch of weeds wrapped around the prop (because this happened to us last weekend and cleaned off and no big deal) and gets a tow back to the lift. Raises it and all clean. Ok, maybe it came off on the tow home. Puts it in the water and now won't start. The boat turns over about a second or two and then flashes low oil alarm on tach gauge and shuts itself off. I've read about the low oil warnings and it sounds like the boat still lets you fire it up but with this it just stops turning over and never fires. Oil has been fine, not an oily mess in the bilge.
Only other thing to note is she took a weekend wave over the bow enough to kick on the front bilge but I can't see that being related.
Any ideas on what to check first or what to look for? I wouldn't think a faulty sender would keep the boat from turning over.


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[jmo]

Start with the basics: oil level on the dipstick, water strainer clear, impeller still intact...

What model & year nautique is it?


______________________________________
2006 SN 196 Limited Excalibur
2001 Super Sport Limited GT40

[homer12]

Dipstick checked ok. Impeller and strainer should be cooling problems right? I agree to check but I can only do so much over the phone with my wife right now.
It is a 2004 SV211 TE


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[homer12]

Today the engine won't crank. Maybe looking at a bad battery?


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[homer12]

Dipstick is right at 1/3 to 1/2 point between full and add. Boat fires up then shuts right off. Oil psi digital gauge gets up to 20psi when it fires. Do these engines have oil pumps? Could it fail? I'm going to add some oil and see if it helps


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[homer12]

Ok all. I've checked the obvious so I think. I've changed the oil switch after talking to local dealer and him thinking the same thing. Still doing the same thing. It starts for a second or two and then shuts off and gives a low oil flash warning. No stored error codes on the deacon tool that I can pull. I had my wife shoot some video of what it sounded like. It's weird that it will stay running a second longer at first and then if you try consecutive times it stays firing less longer or will stop firing.
It's almost like it's not getting fuel and first start uses whatever is there and then after that there's nothing left to fire.
Or there is a blockage preventing any oil flow from getting to the switch. When I took the switch out literally no oil came out of that 'T'. Would that be a problem? Oil pressure gets to 20psi on the gauge when it fires for a second so I know it's circulating. At least I think so.


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[homer12]

Video #1
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AlucPQt2lxBH02EuqRnKJG-ad4UT


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[homer12]

Video #2
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AlucPQt2lxBH02KiTQsDgHfYSLgd

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AlucPQt2lxBH02KiTQsDgHfYSLgd

By the end here it is hardly starting or not at all.


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[kmarine]

I think you have a fuel delivery issue. check to see if you have fuel in your fuel control cell. make sure fuel relays are running pumps then key is switched on. this is where I would start.

[kmarine]

forgot to add there will be no oil pressure when engine is not running. There is also a hex screw on the bottom of the fuel control cell you can drain it from there. see about borrowing a fuel pressure gauge from autozone. or other parts store. I think you may have a low pressure fuel pump issue, but need more info on your fuel delivery system.

[MikeC]

Is there any way you can bypass the oil pressure switch - it sounds like fuel, but if the oil pressure switch is sending a signal to not let the engine run then that would cause the fuel and or ignition issue. Listening to the videos it almost sounds like the emergency kill switch is stopping the engine from running.
Have you checked all of the CBs and electrical plugs?
Good luck

[functionoverfashion]

Check out this thread: https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/f...10-with-pcm330

This sure sounds like a low pressure fuel pump to me. It's not filling the FCC quickly enough, so it's constantly running out of fuel, which is also why it runs longer initially when the FCC is full to start. But the OP of the thread I linked to had an electronic problem (Fuel Injection Computer in his words)... same basic symptoms.

Anyway there's good troubleshooting advice in that thread, too.

[homer12]

Next steps would be get a fuel gauge from auto store. Check relays and fuses in fuel pumps. Do these have breakers? And where if so?
I'll try bypassing oil switch by jumpering to block if that will work
I guess I'll drain FCC as well to see if it's full.


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[homer12]

Update here - I'm leaning towards the low pressure pump now as well. I checked the fuses and they're good. I checked the relays and it clicks and as far as I can tell is good. There's one relay for both pumps right?
I disconnected both pumps on their own and when I had the FCC high pressure pump connected only it didn't do anything when I cycled the start switch. When the low pressure pump was connected by itself it would run.
Here's the big tell though - when I pulled the FCC bowl, it was almost dry, there was probably less than a 1/4" of fuel in the bottom of it. SO, if the LPP isn't filling the bowl, is there potential the HPP is having an issue too?
N3 is supposed to get some more low pressure pumps this week as they're out and on order. I'll be getting one of those probably Thursday to try out.

[homer12]

Is there anyway to verify the pump relays work other than listening for a click when you hit the start button? I know if I put 12v to 2 of the terminals it should close 2 others. Just not sure which is which


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