Help diagnose 2 problems please

[soaresfive]

I think I know your problem...

I had an 81 (2001) that suffered the same way. Completely trashed our vacation. The problem was the electronic ignition was put in wrong. Apparently in some engines it will go together either way but won't run correctly. Have someone look at your EI.

Good luck!

[jthooker]

"Then, we shut it off, and tried again to start it, and a spark came from the battery area, and everything died!!! We must have blown a fuse of some kind, but we couldnt figure out what.

We waited a while, and the power seemed to come back on. Tried to start again, and another small spark and no power."

Could this be a simple as a loose battery connection?
Sure sounds like it!

[surroundsound64]

Weird problem.
Sounds like, at least for your newest problem, there is a bad connection around the battery. Make sure the terminals are clean and tightly connected. Same thing on the starter solenoid and starter.

I'm betting your electronic ignition is the problem.

At certain rpms your engine will produce a sound frequency that can and will interfere with the ignition. But double check that the ei is the right part and that it is installed correctly.

That was the ballast resistor that you described and it sounds like you bypassed it correctly.

It also sounds like your advance is working correctly.

I'd put money on the electronic ignition being the problem.

[fatboycowen]

I will check the EI next. Didnt get my camera out last night cause it was threatening to rain.

One more thing. I pulled off the Flame Arrestor when my brother was bringing the enigne up to speed. Will the secondaries normally open when the boat isnt under load? The secondaries were not opening at all. Is this normal?

I looked at the battery connection, and it looked normal. I noticed a breaker of some sort at the back of the motor with a red button on it. Could this be a problem? Also, the clock on the dash was ticking, but nothing else had power. The bilge pump didnt even turn on.

Thanks,

Jon

[surroundsound64]

Yes, the secondaries will open under a load.

I'm trying to think what that red breaker is for... I have it on my boat as well... and I know what it is, I'm just drawing a blank. Make sure it's in I suppose.

Make sure all of your indash fuses or breakers are good or pushed in.

[EchoLodge]

red breaker

The red button breaker is your main 50 amp breaker. Power from your battery goes to this breaker first then a 10 guage wire feeds to the ignition breaker on your driver's panel and all of your other panel breakers are fed from the ignition breaker.

[surroundsound64]

Re: red breaker

The red button breaker is your main 50 amp breaker. Power from your battery goes to this breaker first then a 10 guage wire feeds to the ignition breaker on your driver's panel and all of your other panel breakers are fed from the ignition breaker.

Oh ya, that's where the bus is... so yes, make sure it's in. hehe.

[fatboycowen]

Re: red breaker

The red button breaker is your main 50 amp breaker. Power from your battery goes to this breaker first then a 10 guage wire feeds to the ignition breaker on your driver's panel and all of your other panel breakers are fed from the ignition breaker.

Can you break this breaker? The button seems to be pushed in just like it was before. Are there fuses behind the dash of the 86 2001?? I couldnt find any. I have a row of buttons, and the ignition button is pushed in.

[fatboycowen]

????????

I may have figured something out. Was searching the www.skidim site.

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PNX-ML-181

That looks almost exactly like the EI that i have. I dont know the numbers, but i will read them off soon.

http://www.skidim.com/distributor.asp

My distributor is the top one (prestolite clip down). It seems that this EI doesnt go with the distributor.

What does everyone think of that?

Jon

[DavidF]

RE: ????????

That you have a problem. Ensure you module is correct for your distributor. Find out if the module you have or will get requires the ballast resistor. Ensure you have a matching coil. If you need the ballast resistor, then get a new one (I think this is your warm no start fault).

You can check the vacuum secondaries by usig a vacuum pump on the diaphram. I do not think the secondaries will open without a load on the engine.

Remember when I said you need to look for corroded/poor electrical connections. Well, you still need to do this everywhere. Sparking is a classic example of a poor connection or direct short. Look for both in the vacinity of the spark. usually, the clock will not work with the ignition breaker off. At least that is how my boat is factory wired.

<edit> ooops, it was another thread that I said check all electrical connections. Oh well, it applies here as well.

[surroundsound64]

You have the same distributor that I do and I have always had trouble with it when I went to ei. You might put the points and condenser back in and see if it fixes the problem. That is if you can't figure it out when you check the part #.

The ignition coil shouldn't be different regardless of your ignition module. You can test your ballast resistor, (once you get current to flow again) if you put the points and such back in. with the key turned to "on", take a volt meter and measure from each terminal of the ballast resistor to ground. This is with the ballast resistor wired correctly again. You should get voltage drops. Terminal to terminal you shouldn't get anything because they are not internally connected.

But as I said before, as long as you have ei you need to bypass the ballast resistor. The ei does it all through transistors, diodes, capacitors, and so on.

I suppose to figure out why current isn't flowing you'll just need to take a volt meter and start workin your way through stuff starting at the batt. Make sure you're getting a 12V loss accross the batt, then make sure you're getting 12V loss at the solenoid... ect. Just find a good ground to attach the (-) of your meter to. The same (-) will work for the whole process. Where ever you're not getting a volt loss means there is a short.

Hope that helps.

[fatboycowen]

Ok, Good job to everyone so far. I checked the battery, and the ground cable was a bit loose. Tightened it up with a wrench, and the boat has power again. For now, that problem is solved.

Started the boat and it started immediatly, but died. The choke was open prety far. What temp will the choke open? It was about 65 or so, and the engine doesnt have any heat. When closing by hand, i couldnt get it closed.

Opened the cap, removed rotor, and here are the numbers on the EI:

467-v4 (on top of the little black box)
Pertronix D572 (side of the little black box)
1581-82 (on the plate)

Looks like this:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PNX-ML-181

Can anyone verify that this is the wrong part for my distributor?

Thanks again. You guys are better than any mechanic.

Jon

[surroundsound64]

Ambient temp being 65? If the engine hasn't been started yet, that choke should be closed. Losten the 3 screws and rotate the black cap until the flap closes. Then tighten the screws back.

I'll look around at part #s and get back about that.

[surroundsound64]

Ok...
This, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173071 , looks like it is what you need.

The item you listed said it is for Mallory distributors.

The one I listed is for prestolites up to 1986.

[fatboycowen]

Ok...
This, http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173071 , looks like it is what you need.

The item you listed said it is for Mallory distributors.

The one I listed is for prestolites up to 1986.

That is what i thought. I think i am going to make a big order at skidim this weekend, and see if i can get this boat back in excelent condition.

I didnt know that about the choke, i was trying to mess with it yesterday, but got sick of sitting in the rain.

Thanks for the info, i will keep updating this with what i find.

Jon