2000 Air Nautique trailer, perfect pass, ignition issues

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  • shouse
    • Jul 2015
    • 76

    • Fort Worth TX

    • 2000 Air Nautique

    2000 Air Nautique trailer, perfect pass, ignition issues

    Took the boat out for the first time in almost 2 years. Multiple things that weren't an issue before.

    1. For the first ~10minutes of cruising at 20-35mph, having large throttle fluctuating issues. At 27mph the tach would bounce around ~300rpms. At 35mph, it would bounce around ~1000rpms. Can't say it sounded like misfires or anything, just very obvious things were in tune. After the ~minutes it pretty much magically cleared up. Drove it back about another 10 minutes and thought it felt pretty good. Got it up to 45mph and everything thing seemed to be functioning fine. Not sure if I should just calk it up to cleaning out the fuel injectors and the last of the old fuel. I completely drained the fuel tank and the FCC, but maybe the fuel in the lines after the FCC??? Not sure, Taking the trip on a week long trip and wanted to order anything that might be flagged as 'suspicious'. Thinking spark plugs, ignition coil pack?? Could use some recommendations on this one.

    2. Put 10 gallons of fuel the bone dry tank. Fuel gauge read about 1/8 of a tank. That about right.....? Seems low, but maybe they tried to make it dummy proof so people wouldnt run out of gas.

    3. THe perfect pass system wasn't displaying anything. Blank screen initially. I hear sounds when i press buttons, but nothing displayed. After i shut it down and restarted after a bit of a drive, i saw black squares, but nothing coherent. Again, sounds while pressing buttons? Where do i start with this one? My head was all up under the dash, so it's possible i pulled a wire, but that doesn't explain how it clearly has some power.

    4. Had an issue trailering it. Got it fully cranked up to the rubber towers that the bow sits in-between. Pulled it out of the water and it's sitting back a few inches. Did it again w/ the same results. The lock on the crank was on and tight and not the culprit. I'm wondering if the rope is stretching bad. I thought about over cranking before pulling the boat out, but that just warped the rubber bumpers on the boat and thought that wasn't the best of ideas. The boat is also off-centered an inch or so to one side. The 'V' of the hull protected it from going further. I'm going on a 12hr trip w/ it, and wonder if I should try and correct this before hitting the road. I can take pictures if someone more knowledge can give me some good trailer advice.

    5. These boats are a dead stick when you cut throttle. I have no idea how people dock or trailer these. The old i/o boat I used to drive was 10x easier. Are there any tips or tricks. I don't want to come into the trailer too fast, but as soon as i get goign too slow or cut throttle, i completely go off course instantly. Seems like there's got to be an easier way.

    6. Behind the engine in front of the rear bench is an access port to the driveshaft going to the prop. THere used to be a piece of deadener type rubber mounted to the hull underneath the driveshaft. The adhesive has come up and the piece is worthless. Something I need? Don't understand the point of it or where I can replace it.

    Long post w/ lost of things, sorry. THanks!
    Last edited by shouse; 07-16-2017, 11:22 PM.
  • kmarine
    • Jun 2017
    • 109

    • chicago

    • boss gt40

    #2
    The first thing is I would change fuel filter after sitting for two years. the surging is the computer adjusting I would take it back out after the filter change and test before any long trip. if your not on the trailer straight you were probably in too deep in the launch ramp. inboard control is different. bump transmission in and out of gear. practice helps. I would also repack wheel bearings before a long trip. and don't forget to purchase spare trailer bearings. You cant find them after hours or on holidays and people have been stranded. sorry I cant help with perfect pass, I drive my boat is older.

    Comment

    • shouse
      • Jul 2015
      • 76

      • Fort Worth TX

      • 2000 Air Nautique

      #3
      Thanks for the suggestions. Just changed the fuel filter before I went out for the test drive. Good tip on the trailer, I was probably too far in.

      Comment

      • DW SD
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Mar 2015
        • 416

        • San Diego county

        • 2001 SAN 210

        #4
        Try connecting and disconnecting the perfect pass display unit cables. If that doesn't work, I'm guessing you need a replacement display unit.

        My boat has a threaded metal turnbuckle to keep the bow in the right place about 1/2" diameter with right and left hand threads, so it tightens like a turnbuckle. This is in addition to the nylon winch.
        Two big hooks one on each end of the turnbuckle. I feel more confident in this than the nylon wove strap, since that is 15+ years old.

        BTW -I never crank the boat against the stop too hard when pulling out. I try to keep my trailer bunks lubricated a bit with liquid rollers spray (every 5 or 10 trips) and then hit the brakes to let it seat. I don't smash the brakes and it only moves about 2" or so. Also is a good brake test after exiting the water.

        Comment

        • MLars
          • Jan 2017
          • 52

          • Central Mass

          • 2000 Sport Nautique 1997 Seadoo GTX

          #5
          Haha you're having so many of the same problems I had when I bought my 2000 Sport Nautique earlier this summer (almost the same boat too!) Anyways I've had almost all boats you can imagine (sterndrives, outboards, jet boats, and jet skis) but never an inboard, so I'll try to give you a few tips from my first few times out.

          4. Since the hull is mostly flat, being slightly crooked on a wishbone style trailer isn't a big deal, it will usually straighten itself out after a couple miles.

          5. It's a learning curve. You have absolutely no steering in reverse or off power. Something I've learned to do that helps when docking or lining up on the trailer is "bumping" the throttle in and out of gear while making steering corrections. This allows some steering without going too fast. Also, in reverse the boat only goes to the left no matter which way the steering is pointed due to the rotation of the prop. When reversing if you need to change direction, point the wheel in the direction you want to turn and bump it into forward. This should rotate the boat, then you can continue reversing.
          Last edited by MLars; 07-17-2017, 10:49 AM.
          2000 Sport Nautique - GT40, Origin Wake Tower, 2700lb Ballast System

          Comment

          • shouse
            • Jul 2015
            • 76

            • Fort Worth TX

            • 2000 Air Nautique

            #6
            I was looking at buying a few things to keep on hand. IAC, TPS, Map sensor. Are these all something I can source through just an automotive store? I was looking at rockauto and searching using a '93 ford f150 w/ the 5.8L engine. Anyone know where I can find part numbers or links directly.

            Also thinking about purchasing the Fuel pump/ECM relay for the GT40. Anything else I should look at given my experiences in #1?

            THanks

            Comment

            • kmarine
              • Jun 2017
              • 109

              • chicago

              • boss gt40

              #7
              most of the gt40 items are regular ford parts. relays are regular bosch type. I have had little issues except for 3 low pressure fuel pumps and a unavailable ecm. in the process of building one with friends on this forum. The parts to keep on hand are impellers and fuel filters.

              Comment

              • Fgroce
                • Dec 2016
                • 179

                • Middle Georgia

                • 2002 Ski Nautique

                #8
                I learned from experience just last weekend how picky the perfect pass is to low voltage. Boat ran great 13.5 on volt meter etc. Then went to lake would not even engage the starter. Found the clamps on the battery cables were slightly corroded only on the bottom. Cut off 1/2 inch new brass clamps and ran like a champ. It also fixed the speedometer problem that I had, The Farnia upgrade reads the paddle wheel and speed was flaky. Now it works great.

                Comment

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