Volt meter drop after PerfectPass install

[killerrkyle]

Installed PP stargazer this weekend on my 01 196. After a few cuss words snaking the servo wire I got it all hooks up and everything works flawlessly.

Only thing I noticed is prior to the install my volt meter gauge would read a solid 14v. With the PP now it reads between 11-12. With the blower on maybe a little lower. No issue starting the boat or running the accessories and the volt meter climbs when you are underway and higher rpm.

I've read about running thicker + & - wires to the dash but my electric knowledge is limited.

Any advice to determine how much draw there actually is and or how to run rectify the issue would be very much appreciated. Thanks!


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[NautiqueJeff]

You likely need to run a new ground wire to your dash. This is a very common issue, especially on boats with PerfectPass. The ground wires installed from the factory are known to be undersize. I ran three new ground wires from the grounding point on the engine to the dash on my '98 Ski Nautique. I ran one directly to PP, one to the gauges, and one to the switches. My voltmeter reads 13.5 - 14 all the time now, and PP never loses connectivity.

[MLA]

I suggest both a dedicated positive and negative from the battery/main switch to the PP. Use a relay on the B+ triggered by the ignition switch to the PP is not hot all the time.

[NautiqueJeff]

I would suggest grounding to the engine grounding point, not the battery.

[killerrkyle]

I would suggest grounding to the engine grounding point, not the battery.

Thanks Jeff et al

I have the smart pod dash unlike your 98. Any idea (or anyone else) on how best to connect a ground wire to the dash?

Can I just tap into the pp gauge ground wire directly from the block?

Thanks!

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[NautiqueJeff]

Yes, you can connect directly to the PP ground wire. I would suggest doing that (and taking the PP gauge out of the common ground that goes to the other gauges). I suggest also running a second ground wire from the engine grounding point to the common ground running to the other gauges.

If you want to take it one step further, run the ground from each gauge to a distribution block, with a larger ground wire connecting the distribution block to the engine grounding point. I did that on my '98, and it worked very well.

Here's the dash wiring diagram for your boat:

2001 Dash Wiring Diagram

[Blamey]

I would suggest grounding to the engine grounding point, not the battery.

What's the reason for this?

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[GBoucher]

Resurrecting an old thread:

I've been updating and fixing some wiring on my '97 Ski Nautique. I'm running Perfect Pass, the horn, and a shower through relays triggered by the dash breakers. I've also installed power/ground bus bars.

While I was doing this, I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the ground to the dash, as I have read that is the root of many problems. When I attempt to wire from the negative bus bar to anywhere in the breaker switch daisy-chain of pink ground wires, the ignition breaker on the dash trips. I also notice the new ground wire (and the piggy-backed daisy chain wires) get pretty hot, after just a few seconds of connectivity.

I am far from an experienced electrician - any ideas what could be causing this to happen? Does the extra ground wire just increase the amperage that much, or is this indicative of another problem? I'm using 12AWG for the wire from the bus for the extra ground wire.

I'm inclined not to mess with it, as I've got all my accessories running properly now.

[SilentSeven]

I did the same to my '97 Ski to resolve power issues with the PP and the upgraded stereo head unit. My setup used direct power/ground lines and relays for switching. Both power and ground ran to the battery as it was close and there was no other good place to tap in. I used inline fuses and did not try to connect via the dash breaker setup. I ran two circuits - one that flipped on with the accessory (powered the stereo head unit) and one that flipped on in the engine run position (for the PP). I also added a large common ground that both tied into the existing dash ground (bypassed the hardness plug) + grounded each new circuits. Can't recall the wire size but 12AWG sounds about right.

If you're tripping the breaker and ground wires are warm, that sounds like a short. I'd recheck your connections to make sure you are tied in where you think you are.

Hope this helps! I have fond memories of my '97 Ski...what a great tow boat!

[GBoucher]

Thanks for the info!

You're definitely right, I was inadvertently shorting the circuit - I now know to keep the ground wire away from the breakers. So when you say you added to the existing dash ground, where did you attach this to? One of the gauge's grounding points?

I took inspiration from the pictures you've posted a few times on how you mounted everything - not quite as neat as yours, but this should look a bit familiar to you!

[SilentSeven]

Ah... you're kind. Your install looks quite tidy!

I recall the dash ground to be a cludge of wires from various items all vampired to main bus ground wire. I think I just connected my extra ground feed to the bus wire to give the juice an alternate return path. Unclear if it did anything...just did because it was apart and an easy addition.

Doing what you did solved all my electrical gremlins.

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