How do you winterizing ballast Tanks G-series with anti-siphon valves

[scottb7]

Maybe someone smarter than me can help me out...

See picture of valve and instructions. Each ballast bag has an anti-siphon valve. So you can overflow out, but you can't pour in. Whatever you pour in stops at the valve.

So how exactly are you supposed to winterizing the ballast bags? The only thing I can gather is NOT follow the instructions and do the following:

1. Take out the impeller
2. Pour into as directed and hope that what you pour in dilutes the trapped water - from last time you overflowed over the side when filling the bags - dilutes the raw water enough that you don't crack the anti-siphon valve.

What am I missing here?

What is the purpose of the anti-siphon valve? There wasn't one on the 2008 sante 210.

Thoughts?

[scottb7]

Come on, nobody winterized a g before?

[HutchCanada]

Is the valve glued in? Just detach the valve and pour your AF into the tank. Run pumps in reverse

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[Cpan13]

Just run your pumps until everything is empty and then pull the plates off all 3 pumps. It's 6 screws and takes about 5 minutes.

[scottb7]

First post won't work cause you can only easily get to one of the 3 valves.

2nd post won't work cause when you empty it does not pull the raw water from what is stuck on top of the valve from when you overflowed the last time. I know this cause water was captured on both of the port and starboard sides above the valve. There was a bunch of water there. There is another 1/4 inch line vent line.

Bottom line is that their instructions are completely garbage cause what ever you pour in is going to sit on top of the closed valve. I verified this....maybe there is enough flex in the valve and the line that it won't cause damage. In case they should just say so.

Honestly, I would bet they just did not bother correcting the winterizing instructions after they added the anti-siphon valves. So even if no damage get's caused from leaving water above the valves the instructions are wrong cause you just trap antifreeze.

p.s. i guess if the guy from canada is not having a problem there it must not cause damage to freeze with raw water stuck above the valve...although i guess unless i am wrong 3 screws x 3 pumps is 9, not six...so not sure i can trust a person that can't add 3 + 3 + 3...just kidding.

[Tom_H]

Throw a shop vac on the end of the overflow once you've pulled the plates off the pumps. Should take about 2 seconds to pull that little bit out.

[scottb7]

Yep, i agree that is probably the way to go. Thanks.

[Paulfras]

I have a GS20 with check valves and found this post while looking for a solution. Anyone have any updates or additional ideas?

[bturner]

I go the other direction when doing mine.

You'll need the following for my method..... 3 - gallons pink RV antifreeze (or whatever you prefer), 6' of 1" reinforced clear hose (http://www.wakemakers.com/premium-ma...last-hose.html) in my case, you may need more or less depending on the location of your pumps, minimum 2 gallon bucket, hand tools to remove hose clamp.

• I have bags on top of my tank and used quick connects when I did the installation, so my first step is to remove the rear bags and drain completely. I then wash the bags and store these outside the boat so the rear trunks stay nice and dry for the winter.
• Locate your pumps and remove any panels needed to get clear access to them. Now determine which end is the intake side (this will be the side going to the hull fitting), remove the hose on the intake side and attach the new hose you purchase from above. Put a gallon of the pink antifreeze in the bucket, then the other end of the hose. Turn on ballast to fill and let the pump suck the gallon of pink antifreeze up out of the bucket, this will go very quickly.
• Remove the clear hose and reinstall the intake hose.
• Repeat for the other 2 pumps and you're done.

I've done this on my last 2 boats along with several other boats that I winterize every year and have been doing so for at least 10 seasons with no issues. This method has worked for me on MasterCrafts, Nautiques and Mailbu's. The ease of doing this is dependent on where your pumps are located. My previous X2 MasterCraft had 2 of the pumps located behind panels and were a PITA to get to so there was lots of standing on your head for the rear 2 pumps. Most newer boats have much better access to the pumps. On my 200 Sport I remove the rear seat back and everything is right there in front of you and very easy to get to. On this boat it probably takes me 30 minutes including removing and installing the seat back.