Ballast Help, 2000 SAN 210

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  • mgs917
    • Feb 2010
    • 182

    • Lexington, SC

    • 2000 SAN 210 - Sold

    Ballast Help, 2000 SAN 210

    I have a 2000 SAN 210. I am wanting to fix my ballast system. I think my factory pumps are still working, but the hoses are either rotted through or disconnected as the water just shoots into the bilge when I start the pumps. I have read through many of the ballast threads, but cant really find what I need. I am not very handy but can do small projects.

    1. Am I able to pull the hard tanks and just connect bags to the system that is already in place?

    2. What do I do with the sensors that are on top of the tank if I add bags? Should I just leave them sitting in the back of the boat? Do I need to cut the wires and cap them?

    3. If anyone has the time could you add a little information on what I need to do if I pull the tanks. I appreciate all help and responses.
  • cselby
    • Oct 2016
    • 7

    • Scottsboro, AL

    • 2003 SANTE 210TE

    #2
    You will need some additional hoses and fittings to connect bags to your existing lines. Wakemakers sells a kit (or at least they do for an 03, I'm not sure if they are exactly the same). They do not show it separately online if you aren't buying bags from them but you can call them and order it. When I did mine this summer, I disconnected the wiring harness for the sending units and zip-tied them out of the way.

    I'm wondering if your problem may be cracked pumps. Both of my drain pumps were cracked and I had to replace them when I swapped the tanks for 750s,

    I also reinforced my engine dividers with some aluminum angle when I swapped the tanks out. I used two pieces on each side mounted on the engine side of the dividers.

    Let me know if you have any other questions.

    Comment

    • DW SD
      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
      • Mar 2015
      • 416

      • San Diego county

      • 2001 SAN 210

      #3
      On removing the tanks, most just cut them up and take them out in pieces, I think. If doing that, I'd use an angle grinder with a 4" or 5" cutoff wheel. There is little value in them especially given bulky shipping requirements. I kept mine and used piggyback bags sitting on top, between those and the tanks, I fill up all of the rear lockers, so I'm pretty sure I'm maximizing weight.

      I did this mostly because I was lazy to remove. It is easy to plumb those. Just take the outlet from the hard tank and attach that to the inlet (bottom) on the piggyback bag. Then outlet (top of piggyback bag) and attach to old vent. Wakemakers, again, can help you.

      FYI - You can buy new aerator style pumps on amazon for cheap. Or go to an impeller style, which is a bit more complicated, but also faster to fill / drain, I think.

      Comment

      • mgs917
        • Feb 2010
        • 182

        • Lexington, SC

        • 2000 SAN 210 - Sold

        #4
        I was thinking if I pulled the tanks, it would be easier to get to the pumps and engine. Is this a logical conclusion?

        Comment

        • cselby
          • Oct 2016
          • 7

          • Scottsboro, AL

          • 2003 SANTE 210TE

          #5
          Yes. Having the hard tanks out makes engine access tons easier. No more sliding around on the wedge tanks.

          The rear tanks are pretty easy to remove. Remove the fill and vent hoses, 2 or 3 bolts, then lift up and remove the drain hose/pump.

          Sent from my SM-G930V using PLT Nautique mobile app

          Comment

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