PCM EX343 winterizing help please

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  • HutchCanada
    • Oct 2014
    • 61

    • Markham, Ontario

    • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

    PCM EX343 winterizing help please

    So getting read to winterize my '10 210, first time. Pretty sure I have it order but wanted clarification on a few things from anyone who's done it before.

    After draining the block, manual says to pour AF directly into thermostat housing instead of sucking it through raw water intake. Is this it?


    Are these the lines to the heater?



    Transmission cooler?


    V-drive drain plug?


    FCC drain plug?


    Thanks. I don't want to screw this up!

    Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

  • Quinner
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Apr 2004
    • 2245

    • Unknown

    • Correct Crafts

    #2
    My personal preference is to drain everything and then suck up the anti-freeze, it takes about 5-6 gallons instead of 2 but cheap insurance IMO to ensure there is no water left anywhere throughout.

    Not sure about the VDrain plug but all your other plug/line locations are correct.

    Comment

    • Evening Shade
      1,000 Post Club Member
      • Apr 2015
      • 1295

      • Martinez, GA/Lake Greenwood, SC

      • 2017 GS20 Previous: 2011 SAN 210, 2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200

      #3
      It looks like you have everything correct, but don't forget to pour the water out of the strainer otherwise it will freeze and crack.

      I have never used antifreeze with my boats. I just drain the water. The antifreeze seemed like a great idea, but it was always so hard to get to the intake hose that I decided it wasn't worth the hassle and I've never had any problems. Plus, how do you know if your thermostat is opened when you run the antifreeze through? If the thermostat is closed it will just circulate through the exhaust manifolds and out the exhaust and won't circulate through the block.
      2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200

      Comment

      • HutchCanada
        • Oct 2014
        • 61

        • Markham, Ontario

        • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

        #4
        I think getting the boat up to operational temp should ensure the thermostat is open?

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        Comment

        • charlesml3
          1,000 Post Club Member
          • Jan 2008
          • 2453

          • Lake Gaston, NC

          • 2022 G23

          #5
          Originally posted by HutchCanada View Post
          I think getting the boat up to operational temp should ensure the thermostat is open?

          Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
          Yes. This exactly. Ideally, you should add Stabil to the tank first. That way, as you're warming up the engine to open the thermostat, the stabilized fuel will circulate through the entire fuel delivery system.

          -Charles

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          • Quinner
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Apr 2004
            • 2245

            • Unknown

            • Correct Crafts

            #6
            No, bad info above on the T-Stat.

            T-Stat position does not matter as long as a drain is done first as it always should be. TStat blocks the exit not the entrance.

            Shade is correct however a drain only "should" be fine, for me adding the a/f is a gaurantee that any residual water is flushed out/mixed with the a/f, perhaps a little corrosion protection as well.

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            • HutchCanada
              • Oct 2014
              • 61

              • Markham, Ontario

              • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

              #7
              Do I have the right hoses for the heater? Blow air through them and then AF?

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              • Quinner
                1,000 Post Club Member
                • Apr 2004
                • 2245

                • Unknown

                • Correct Crafts

                #8
                Yes, red hoses are going to/from the heater core. Just pull the top hose at the intake manifold, with the drain plug removed at the J-Tube, blow the water thru the hose and it will drain from the J=Tube drain. Backfill is up to you, if you do a suck up then they will be backfilled.

                Comment

                • HutchCanada
                  • Oct 2014
                  • 61

                  • Markham, Ontario

                  • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

                  #9
                  Is #23 the J tube?


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                  • Quinner
                    1,000 Post Club Member
                    • Apr 2004
                    • 2245

                    • Unknown

                    • Correct Crafts

                    #10
                    Yes and 27 is the drain plug

                    Comment

                    • HutchCanada
                      • Oct 2014
                      • 61

                      • Markham, Ontario

                      • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

                      #11
                      Ok great. Thanks this really helps me a lot.

                      Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

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                      • Evening Shade
                        1,000 Post Club Member
                        • Apr 2015
                        • 1295

                        • Martinez, GA/Lake Greenwood, SC

                        • 2017 GS20 Previous: 2011 SAN 210, 2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Quinner View Post
                        No, bad info above on the T-Stat.

                        T-Stat position does not matter as long as a drain is done first as it always should be. TStat blocks the exit not the entrance.

                        Shade is correct however a drain only "should" be fine, for me adding the a/f is a gaurantee that any residual water is flushed out/mixed with the a/f, perhaps a little corrosion protection as well.
                        I stand corrected on the T stat, but I do have a couple questions.

                        How are you guys getting your boats up to operating temp? I have a Fake-a-Lake, but it won't fit flush against the hull of my boat because the brass water intake grate is too big. I did try to run the engine very briefly with the FaL and water came out of the shaft seal, but I was concerned about water getting to the engine because no water was coming out of the exhaust. I shut the engine off after a few seconds because I was afraid of harming the engine or shredding the impeller.

                        How are you guys sucking the antifreeze into the engine? The water intake hose so too short and rigid to pull up out of the bilge to put it in a 5 gallon bucket.
                        2007 Malibu Wakesetter 23 LSV, 1995 Cobalt 200

                        Comment

                        • HutchCanada
                          • Oct 2014
                          • 61

                          • Markham, Ontario

                          • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

                          #13
                          Newb here. For warming boat up I plan on using a longer hose connected to raw water intake. Other end in large bucket of water with a constant water supply from garden hose. I might also trying rigging up something to attach the garden hose direct to water intake. For AF put your DIY longer hose in AF. I saw this done on a DD and it worked just fine


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                          • HutchCanada
                            • Oct 2014
                            • 61

                            • Markham, Ontario

                            • 2010 Super Air Nautique 210

                            #14
                            Connect here


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                            • charlesml3
                              1,000 Post Club Member
                              • Jan 2008
                              • 2453

                              • Lake Gaston, NC

                              • 2022 G23

                              #15
                              Hutch has it right. Connect a garden hose where he indicated. This will supply PLENTY of water to get the engine up to temp. While it's doing that, get a 5-gallon bucket ready with AV antifreeze. Shut everything down, and put a short hose in the bucket and restart the engine. It'll draw all the antifreeze out, up and around the engine. As soon as the bucket is empty, shut down the engine and you're winterized.

                              -Charles

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