2016 G23 Winterization plans...

[Johnny_Rock]

Planning on pulling my boat off the lake this weekend; temperatures will approach freezing overnight tonight. Boat is a 2016 G23 with the 550 engine and a heater. Called to set up winterizing but my servicing dealer is not the same one I bought it from--so their scheduler didn't do me any favors getting me in for a same-day appointment to have the work done. Because of conflicts--I'll have to wait two weeks or more to bring it in.

Gonna store it (until then) in an unheated shed.

As a rule--I mix SeaFoam with high-octane gas all season long.

Won't be at the 50-hour interval but I'm gonna ask them to change the oil and filter at the same time they winterize it so it'll be good to go 50 hours next spring. Plan to store it at about 45 degrees in the shed (heater installed soon) and plug in the on-board battery charger over the winter.

I'd like to put it in the lake next spring and go--no summerizing; no trip to the dealer. Is this possible?

Anything else I need to know about the process?

TIA

[R0CKETMAN]

If it's going to be 45+ why "winterize"? .. assuming you have a back up plan for power loss.

[Infinity]

If impeller is changed now....and you can install the batteries in Spring (or leave on charger which is NOT recommended unless you just turn on charger at regular intervals and not leave on the entire time...like every couple weeks plug them in for 48hrs), there is no reason why boat cannot be ready to go in summer without a trip to dealer. In cold temps like that...suggest that after you have system drained of water, suck up RV anti-freeze to prevent corrosion.

[Johnny_Rock]

If impeller is changed now....and you can install the batteries in Spring (or leave on charger which is NOT recommended unless you just turn on charger at regular intervals and not leave on the entire time...like every couple weeks plug them in for 48hrs), there is no reason why boat cannot be ready to go in summer without a trip to dealer. In cold temps like that...suggest that after you have system drained of water, suck up RV anti-freeze to prevent corrosion.

Curious what you mean by 'system?' Exactly where are you suggesting to put the RV ant-freeze? Suck up into the ballast system? Then what do you do with it in the spring?

Here's my update: Brought to dealer yesterday for winterization/oil change. I was billed for oil change; and winterizing the engine, heater, and ballasts. Their guy said that they disconnect batteries (negative) and leave in the boat. My plan is to reconnect them and charge once a month or so with the on-board charger for about 48 hours. He told me boat is ready to go in Spring; (he did not mention periodically charging batteries over the winter--just not to leave charging full time.) Just connect and charge batteries in Spring and go.

[DaveNH]

Sounds like you are good to go! Just a preference on my part, but I prefer to start up the boat on the trailer with a hose prior to first launch. Just gives me a chance to do the once over and check everything out without the pressure of being at a launch ramp with my buddies waiting.

[Infinity]

Meant that once you cooling system is drained of water.....to then fill it up with RV antifreeze, which is normally "sucked up", but that depends on what you use for the AF to fill your system. Many (including me), use a bucket and using gravity, start the engine since that sucks it into the system. Since it has already been winterized tho, you would likely want to pour AF into the system, which can be done at least partially, but removing the thermostat. Only way to entirely fill it tho is to use the engine.
Some dealers do not use anti-freeze at all and only drain, but since you used the dealer you should have insurance anyway since if anything goes wrong or freezes, they should be responsible. The method I suggested is DIY and is also done by many dealers.
Either way, you should be good now

[bignicolet]

Question on ballast winterization. I have a 2016 SAN G23 the manual says to simply pour 50/50 antifreeze in the vent holes for the front and rear ballast tanks then run the pump until you see it drain out the bottom. In the diagram for the ballast system it shows check valves on the vent lines. I was able to pour in the front and let is drain slowly but the rear will not allow any antifreeze in or very little. I tried a pump to pump some in and it just sprays all over. Is there another way to get antifreeze in the ballast bags on these?

page 4-8 and 4-10 of the Manual show the check valves in the vent lines, and page 9-6 step 3 tells you to pour into the tank vent lines?

Any help appreciated!

Thanks

[NautiqueJeff]

I have never added antifreeze to ballast pumps/tanks. I just run them until they don't pump out any more water and call it good. I have never heard of anyone losing a ballast pump to freezing. I could be wrong though.

[charlesml3]

I have never added antifreeze to ballast pumps/tanks. I just run them until they don't pump out any more water and call it good. I have never heard of anyone losing a ballast pump to freezing. I could be wrong though.

Jeff is absolutely right for these later model boats. Now the 1998 through about 2003 was different. Those boats ran simple aerator pumps and they were low in the bilge and it was impossible to get all the water out of them without disconnecting hoses. I used to connect a funnel to the ballast vent port and slowly pour a gallon of pink antifreeze in. It would make it's way to the tanks then down the hose, through the pumps and eventually out the bottom of the boat. If I didn't do this, I was replacing at least one pump in the spring.

-Charles

[scottb7]

yeah, i was in a mood one day...go figure. and i got got irritated with nautique that the manual tells you to pour anftifreeze in and their is a check valve. so long story short i ripped them for being to lazy to update their manual. but they said you don't need to do anything to winterize ballast tanks. they told me that directly. i still can't help myself and pull the ballast pump impellers every year.

[bignicolet]

Thanks, Burnsville MN definitely gets colder than Iowa so if you haven’t had a problem with it I am sure it will be fine!

[ksarbau]

I pulled the nine raw water drain plugs this weekend on my 2016 G23 w/H6 and emptied the strainer. It was very simple as described in this thread. Water drained out as expected...however, I wanted to check one thing with the group here. Three of the water drain hoses on the starboard side of the engine are zip tied in a bundle. They were super easy to access but strangely, the lines ran slightly “uphill” towards the front of the engine. I can’t see where they are connected to the engine (toward the back of the boat) for the run of hose I can see (about 18” or so), they run uphill by about 2-3 inches before the end of the hose with the plug. They seem to be installed this way from the factory...there are nicely trimmed zip ties holding the lines to the side of the block. I’m guessing it’s done and all good, just strange to me that a drain hose would run uphill. Has anybody else noticed this on their H6? I would think to fully drain, they should run downhill towards the plug?

I did not do the “suck up” method with RV antifreeeze but am leaning towards doing so if the uphill run is a phenomenon on my H6?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!