Newbie winterization

[mike1474]

Just bought a 93 SN in September. I am mechanically inclined, so id like to winterize it myself. The boat and motor are in beautiful shape, and i dont want to screw anything up. Now, I know there are different ways to do it. I plan to drain and fill with antifreeze. I know the 5 drain plugs, and the trans cooler, but where do i fill the antifreeze? BTW, I know there are probably many threads on this, but believe it or not, some of us were not born with a shiny boat in the garage and are new to this. I'm not looking to start a debate, nor am I looking for snarky comments. Just good honest help from good honest people. I'm in MN, and I will keep it in My garage over the winter, but the garage is not heated. Any good help, comments, and pics are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance everybody.

[Tom_H]

One drain on either side of the block. One drain on the back of each exhaust manifold. Root around in the drains with a piece of wire to clear any debris that could possibly block the drain. On the front of the engine, pull the plug out of the j-tube to drain the hoses and circulation pump area. Then trace your water inlet to catch any other low spots - just takes usually pulling one more hose or two off to drain the transmission cooler. Also pull the strainer basket and pour out the water - clean out the screen while you're in there.

After that, put everything back together. If you choose to use anti-freeze, I just pop off the thermostat and pour in there - you'll probably need a new gasket for the thermostat housing if you go this route. It'll take 1-2 gallons.

If you haven't already, fill up your gas tank and add stabilizer. Run it briefly at the lake or on the hose prior to your draining to get the stabilized gas through the fuel system. It's also a good time to change your oil. Some say to pull the impeller out and store in a bag for the winter. Personally, I just replace the impeller every spring before the season. I've got a 94, so my engine will be real similar to yours. If you need to run anything by me, feel free to message me. I'm in the northeast metro if you're in the cities.

The other considerations are if you have a heater or shower - as there will be a couple extra steps to clear the water from those.

[Quinner]

Follow what Tom has noted and you will be fine.

I would caution you NOT to do as Charles suggested unless you do a complete drain before sucking up the anti-freeze. Refer to your owners manual as it will advise to always drain everything before adding anti freeze just as Tom and I have also suggested.

[scottb7]

There is no guarantee the thermostat will be fully open. So you could go thru 5 or 6 gallons and not get all the water from the block...Could you not? A 1993 boat...Yeah, there is no risk the thermostat could be going bad.

P.S. Note that the thread was created by "Newbie". I would just drain per instructions. If an owner can't follow the instructions and drain, they should pay someone to winterize.

[Tom_H]

charles, I'm not doubting that your method works for you in your climate, and would likely work up here in Minnesota. But the cooling system can and will shunt water to the exhaust risers, bypassing the block when the thermostat closes (or is closing and restricting flow).

One of the reasons I don't like the non-drain first method, is because many will read or hear the advice about 'when I see anti-freeze coming out of the exhaust, I'm good' rule, and not understand that that's only true if you've drained the block first and the anti-freeze has to fill the block before it will get to the exhaust risers and out of the exhaust. If you don't drain first, there's a real good chance you'll see anti-freeze coming out the exhaust almost immediately. I also don't like wasting gallons of anti-freeze even if it is 'environmentally safe' and not very expensive. At the end of the day, drain first is PCM's recommendation in the manual, and it takes all of 10 minutes for me to drain water and pour in anti-freeze, and it's extreme peace of mind that my engine is good sitting out there in a horse barn that can see temperatures down to 40/50 below.

[gary s]

+1 Tom. I have not owned a Ford powered boat for 17 years but I do know this- It does not matter if the thermostat is open or not and you would know that if you understand how the cooling system works. The thermostat is at the end of the cooling system.Following the picture below you can see the coolant enters into the upper thermostat housing intake,by the blue arrow,this is the port that connects to the raw water pump via a hose.The liquid will then pass through to the bypass of the lower thermostat housing and into the J tube. The J tube connects to the circulating pump where the liquid then enters the block. The liquid circulates through the block and then rises since its also warm and into the heads,where most of the heat is generated. It exits the top of the heads and enters the intake manifold and out through the thermostat housing to be recirculated into and mixed if needed by the thermostat opening with colder coolant. Any excess goes out the upper housing and into the exhausts. One of the advantages of PCM's method is that you can winterize even if you cant run the engine. I have included the winterizing instructions right from a PCM owners manual. As you can see it shows where the drains are at on the first page,(the 3rd picture is of a Chevy) and the second page tells you to drain the block first reinstall the plugs and pour in the antifreeze.

[gary s]

I might add another thought on draining. When running on the hose not much heat is generated in the engine while idling so the need to add water to the block is minimal. Most of what is sucked up will go to the exhaust as overflow and not going into the block. But when the block is empty it will quickly fill up with what ever you put in.

[Quinner]

Charles, it has been pointed out to you numerous times in this and the other recent thread regarding winterizing, PER THE OWNERS OPERATION MANUAL DRAIN FIRST!!!! So your saying the PCM & Nautique Engineers have no idea what they are doing?? Go to SkiDims website and see their recommendations "DRAIN FIRST", these are documented instructions from experts and engineers not a UTube video or "what you think a mechanic does".

Your theory on the antifreeze pushing the water out is absurd, liquid intermingles, eddies, swirls it does not push. The water passages in these engines are not engineered, they are the space left after the engineered components are in place, add in all the marinization parts with bends, elbows, fittings with dissimilar ID's, etc etc all disrupting flow or creating eddies and then what if the TStat closes at all or whatever temp gauge you are relying on to determine TStat is open is accurate?? How do you know what temp stat the boat has, that a PO has not installed a higher temp TStat?? Bet you do not even know what temp your own TStat is!! And read the label on the pink RV antifreeze, its says DO NOT DILUTE!!!

In the other thread you insist there are no drain points on these engines, lol, no offense but should a person who does not even know where the drain points on these boats are be giving advice in how to winterize them?? Look at the video you referenced above, read the only comments, both negative and saying bad advice, DRAIN FIRST.

I don't care if I lived in Florida I would still never "not drain first" as you suggest and you should not be on this site suggesting otherwise as it could potentially create a very expensive problem come spring.

[gary s]

Instead of calling Quinner out I would suggest you call Pleasurecraft Marine and tell them that their wrong,they wrote the manual. If your engine is new enough they even provide the warranty maybe it will save them something on a claim. Then when your done with them you should give Bill Yeargan a call, maybe he is not aware of what the people in his employ are up to. My apologies to the OP. If you use Pleasurecrafts instructions you will be good to go. If you have a heater,shower or v drive check with the manufacturer on how to winterize them

[mike1474]

Thanks for the help guys. Tom H, I live in the SW metro. But seriously guys, the problem with a lot of these threads is that some of you like to start a debate on what method is best and why you should do or not do a certain method. If you read my original post, I said I was looking for help and not wanting to start a debate. I also stated I was going to drain and fill. When you guys start these debates, you further confuse the person looking for help. If you want to debate, start a debate thread. For the guys who gave clear, concise information, THANK YOU!

[mike1474]

BTW, I have nothing special in the boat. No showers, etc. But thanks for the heads up in case i did habe that stuff. And i was planning on changing oil and fogging engine as well. Thanks again everybody. If anybody else has additional useful information, please post. But please dont debate anything that will further confuse us newbies.

[DocPhil]

There is no guarantee the thermostat will be fully open. So you could go thru 5 or 6 gallons and not get all the water from the block...Could you not? A 1993 boat...Yeah, there is no risk the thermostat could be going bad.

P.S. Note that the thread was created by "Newbie". I would just drain per instructions. If an owner can't follow the instructions and drain, they should pay someone to winterize.

You could always check the drain plug in the block when done. Antifreeze coming out? you're all set

[mike1474]

Gary S, thanks foe the pics. The former owner did not have the manual.

[Tom_H]

Gary S, thanks foe the pics. The former owner did not have the manual.

If you look at the top of this page, you'll see a tab that says Manuals/Brochures. The 93 engine and boat manuals are there.

[Tom_H]

You could always check the drain plug in the block when done. Antifreeze coming out? you're all set

True, but then you're draining anti-freeze right back out of your block - and trying to get those small plugs back in while it's pouring over your hand seems less than fun.