Newbie winterization

[DocPhil]

No I'm talking about doing this with the engine running. The sump hose is just to draw AF up from the bucket.

I'm just doing it on a cold engine partially or nearly filled with AF already

[Tom_H]

Ah, gotcha. That'll work. If the garden hose into the post-strainer hose isn't a tight/snug fit, I'd toss a couple laps of tape around it, just so the raw water pump can pull a little vacuum on the sump pump/anti-freeze in case your sump pump is on the lower end of the flow range (but I'm guessing it's fine). Sorry mis-understood you on the engine running.

[mike1474]

Thanks guys. I appreciate you pointing out the manuals tab. I had not noticed that. My plan was to leave the block plugs out until a little antifreeze started coming out, and then plug it. That way I know it's getting into the block. I really do appreciate this forum for the wealth of knowledge shared by owners, minus the petty debates. It has helped calm my anxiety of owning a BOAT (Bring Out Another Thousand ). At the risk of starting another debate, what are your thoughts on antifreeze? Pink or green?

[DocPhil]

Pink or green?

Doesn't matter as long as it is propylene glycol not ethylene glycol

[gary s]

Mike - use what ever you are comfortable with. Not familiar with green propylene but I use the -75 pink stuff from Menards. Easy to get and if timing is right you get your 11% back

[Tom_H]

Yep - just make sure it's something that's safe to go to the ground in the spring so you don't have to try and collect and dispose of the anti-freeze. I just use the pink marine/rv anti-freeze. Fleet farm and Menards always have a huge supply of it this time of year.

[kls1969]

Looking for info an winterizing 2016 san 210 engine (stock motor) and ballast. Have done it before on san 2008. Just want to make sure I don't miss anything on my newer boat.
Thanks!

[mike1474]

Tom H who's your preferred dealership/service center? The guy I bought from used Son Watersports.

[Tom_H]

Son will know your vintage of Nautique better than probably anyone in the metro, as he was the long-time Nautique dealer prior to their move to Marine Max. I used him for one or two years of winterizations, and would recommend him to anyone. I don't have a Nautique (have an old Hydrodyne inboard), but I have a PCM engine, so he would be my first choice for any service beyond my capabilities, as he knows those vintage of engines like the back of his hand.

That being said, I do all my own work and haven't had a boat into a dealer in many years. I imagine Anoka is a bit of a haul for you though. I've got experience with Midwest Mastercraft as well from running promo's through them for a couple years for our ski team. They're fine, but see a lot more turn-over in the service bay, and they won't know your engine as well as Son will which is more or less a one man shop (+ a couple).

Your engine should be pretty straight forward though in a 93, with the exception being if you have a Protec ignition, which would require a distributor installation if it craps out (which it will eventually).

[DocPhil]

Tom_H , So I did the suck up method last night. The dealer confirmed it can be done on a cold engine. They stated that they drain the AF out after they run it though. They really couldn't give me a good reason why other than it "makes a mess in Spring". Have you heard of this? I can tell you that draining a crap ton of AF out of the motor will make a bigger mess most likely.

[Tom_H]

I've heard of some people doing that, but it's never made any sense to me. And it's a **** of a lot less messy to hook the boat to the hose in the spring and push it out the exhaust, than it is to be draining it inside the boat...

[gary s]

I drain mine for several reasons 1- My boat lives on the lift 365,don't want to be blowing AF into the water at startup and 2- impossible for air to freeze. I have installed petcocks like the ones linked to make it easy. Possibly that dealer reuses the AF mixture,it can be tested with a refractometer and more added to it to lower the freeze point if it gets diluted. Do 50 boats you could easily go through 100 gallons.

[DocPhil]

[Possibly that dealer reuses the AF mixture,it can be tested with a refractometer and more added to it to lower the freeze point if it gets diluted. Do 50 boats you could easily go through 100 gallons.[/QUOTE]

I think this is the reason. You are dead on the money. Saves a crap ton of money if you reuse it. If you use the negative 100 F stuff, even if it gets diluted in half you are protected to negative 50!

[Tom_H]

I can see the dealer re-use angle, and the not wanting to dump it in the lake. But for a DIYer, if you're going to drain it right back out, I wouldn't bother adding it in the first place. I would just drain the water and be done with it. Any little amount of water that doesn't come out from draining isn't going to crack a block as it has room to expand in a drained block. I may actually skip the anti-freeze myself altogether this year, but I think I have enough on my shelf, so will likely just use it up.

[Infinity]

I don't drain my AF for the simple reason that it helps prevent corrosion with all the cavities full of AF, when empty it can condensate especially with a small amount of residual water (if you dont use AF at all) and cold temps. I have heard of a lot of dealers that do that tho and I agree its probably to reuse since it takes 4-5 gallons for mine to come out of exhaust. I got a 5 gallons bucket and installed my own fittings with a piece of hose so I just hook the piece of hose to my strainer, elevate the bucket a couple feet and when I start the engine, the engine sucks it all out within 2 mins...probably starts coming out of exhaust around gallon #4 but I always run 5 just to make sure system is totally full. After I do that is when I pull my impeller.