1st timer winterization - double check my process

[Liamfm]

Might dive in this weekend and get it ready. I've read and read, but thought I'd ask for a double check on my first time doing this.

1) Stabil in gas
2) warm engine, then drain oil and change oil/filter, suck transmission fluid out and replace with Dexron III
3) remove 2 plugs on either side of block
4) remove 2 plugs on manifolds
5) remove lower hose on transmission cooler
6) remove strainer and empty
7 - HELP! where do I fill it with RV antifreeze?

Anything else? (I'll be following the long list supplied by others, WD-40, etc, this was the more abbreviated, crucial version of that list)

Here's a video of me pointing all this jazz out. If someone could double check that I'm going after the right stuff that would be awesome.

https://youtu.be/LKqe0tuN3eg

[Tom_H]

Don't forget plug at bottom of j tube near circulation pump

[Infinity]

What engine do you have? I did not have sound on video so maybe I missed that.
Do you have a strainer or place to hook up hose to run in driveway? If so...that is where you can input the RV anti-freeze. You can either buy something, or make something pretty easy that allows you to suck in the AF (need a tight seal as engine will suck air easier than fluid). Pics are the 5 gallon bucket I made for that process, got everything at Wal-Mart for less than $20...plus piece of hose. If you don't go that route, you can also pour in where thermostat goes, but not sure that will fill up all cavities without running the engine...and it gets cold in Vermont where you live so don't take any chances. You can add a strainer/hose hookup pretty easy if you are handy. If you do it soon after your water pickup, it will circulate it thru-out entire engine....but always make sure you drain all water first.

[Liamfm]

What engine do you have? I did not have sound on video so maybe I missed that.
Do you have a strainer or place to hook up hose to run in driveway? If so...that is where you can input the RV anti-freeze. You can either buy something, or make something pretty easy that allows you to suck in the AF (need a tight seal as engine will suck air easier than fluid). Pics are the 5 gallon bucket I made for that process, got everything at Wal-Mart for less than $20...plus piece of hose. If you don't go that route, you can also pour in where thermostat goes, but not sure that will fill up all cavities without running the engine...and it gets cold in Vermont where you live so don't take any chances. You can add a strainer/hose hookup pretty easy if you are handy. If you do it soon after your water pickup, it will circulate it thru-out entire engine....but always make sure you drain all water first.

Thanks to you both. 75* and sunny tomorrow, so heading out for the fifth last day. Then I'll tackle this. The bucket idea is a good one. I do have the house adapter just past the strainer. And I'll make sure to find the drain on the j tube.

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[Liamfm]

So, there are threads saying to pull your impeller. However, I don't see that happening if I'm also supposed to run the engine to circulate the antifreeze. Any harm in keeping the impeller in place?

My hose input is right after the strainer. If I do the bucket technique, with five gallons of RV af, do I run the motor until I see af coming out the exhaust? Run it until the bucket is almost empty, but not quite (don't want it sucking air), then shut it down and call it good?

Changed the oil and filter today, pulled all plugs, strainer, and lower transmission cooler hose. Ready for the antifreeze.

Buh bye summer.

Gt-40 EFI

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[functionoverfashion]

You're on the right track, absolutely. I worked at a marina for a bunch of years and we had several buckets made up for exactly this. The biggest difference was, the hose output was on the side of the bucket near the bottom, that way you could put the bucket down on a flat surface more easily. Harder to get a seal when installing the hose fitting, but just use a big glob of 5200 or something and it'll never leak. What you're doing is exactly how we winterized inboards (run up to temp, oil change, drain water, replace plugs/hoses, suck in non-tox antifreeze with engine running. Disconnect battery, done.


We're over in New Hampshire so I'm sure we had the same weather as you. We had 4 or 5 "last days" too! Saturday was finally it, but I couldn't resist one more wakeskate! Still no wetsuit. Yesterday I winterized the boat; first time doing this one, although I've done other v-drives. Man, I miss my old direct drive when it comes to stuff like this. Took me about an hour to do it all, what would have been 15 minutes with the old boat. I've got some changes to make so it's quicker next time. Like, I need to make my own bucket - I just dumped a/f into the hose directly that goes to the water pump, stopping the engine between gallons.

[DaveNH]

You did the most important thing, which is drain the engine first. Now if you suck in the AF you've filled the block, hoses, risers, etc. and you'll see it coming out the exhaust. No reason to stop just because you see it in the exhaust, I'd put the full 5 gallons in. I believe some people use 4 gallons on GT-40's but I tend to go with 5, what's another 3 bucks!

On the impeller, do you know when it was last changed? If you don't know the age of it, I'd change it out. No reason to remove an impeller for draining purposes, just if you are replacing it. I change mine every 2 seasons, I know some people go longer. The main issue, and you address it with your comment about not wanting to suck air, is that even a very short time running the impeller dry will ruin it. Basically never run the engine for any reason without having liquid in the suction loop.

[DaveNH]

Hey, another NH guy beat my post by 1 minute! I didn't make it out this past week but what a nice stretch of fall weather!

[Liamfm]

Trust the new englanders to know how to do it (themselves). I've got the parts for the bucket now. Just need to drill the hole for the fitting. Noted on the impeller. I don't know how old it is, but my plan was to change it in the spring.

Thanks all!

[Randy1833]

Here is the Canadian version, Rona bucket. Bucket full of RV antifreeze, 5 gallons, house water in on right, hose to boat's engine flush kit on left. Once thermostat opens, running ten minutes, open bucket valve, top, shut off house water, right, draw 5 gallons antifreeze into engine, shut down engine. As insurance, I remove plugs and drain all water/antifreeze. The sink is just for demonstration purposes. All in for $20, bucket from Rona, fittings from Amazom.

[Liamfm]

Is there a need to warm the engine before adding the AF? I would think not since as soon as you put in the AF at say, 60*F, the thermostat would close anyway. I was planning on starting my engine on the bucket full of AF, letting 5 gallons run into it, then turn it off and call it good. I drained the water and changed the oil when it was hot, but that was yesterday :-)

[DaveNH]

No need to warm engine, the key is YOU HAVE to drain the engine first, then add antifreeze. You did it perfectly!

[scott resick]

Can somebody please tell me why you go through all the steps of draining the block and manifolds? If your running antifreeze through why bother? I pull the garden hose well after the thermostat opens then immediatley dump 7 or 8 gallons of antifreeze through stall the motor with sea foam and call it a day. Never had an issue with freezing. And it gets coooooooooold here.

[Liamfm]

Scott, I'll chime in, but as a newbie... My understanding is that the freeze point of the RV antifreeze is significantly reduced when combined with water, so draining the block ensures that as much water as possible is out before adding antifreeze.

[DaveNH]

Yes to what Liam said, I use the pink -50 RV antifreeze but it is marginal for protection if any water is present, some people are buying the -100 for peace of mind. The real reason for draining, and this is specific to certain engines which includes the 351 Ford, is that whether the thermostat is open or not you are adding antifreeze over a chamber filled with water. There is mixing and some antifreeze just rolls on through and exits without displacing much water. Lots of people get by without draining, but there have been enough frozen blocks to say it's not the best way to do it. I drain my engine in something like 5 minutes, only thing that takes a bit more time is if your riser plugs are tough to remove, but if you remove them yearly they are easy. For five minutes work, 0 cost, and really easy task to do I'll take the added protection. I really don't understand why people resist doing this.