Winterizing ZR6 with "optional drain kit?

[Twestfall]

This is my first year with an 06 220 with the ZR6 engine. Trying to get it winterized today. It has the optional drain kit on it and it appears that that the one drain plug on the kit it the the only thing that has ever been used to drain the entire raw water side by the looks of the paint on all the other normal drain locations. Maybe a dumb question. But is it as simple as removing that single plug, removing the water strainer and draining the water from the v-drive. Seems way to simple but the way everything is routed and the fact that it appears the Mariana that has winterized it in the past did it that way. Thanks for any insight!

[Twestfall]

[scottb7]

What could possibly go wrong? You have the engine operating manual, and you noticed that it says to drain first and then backfill with rv antifreeze (if desired).

So yeah, disregard the manual, and just be sure you do it exactly like the marina "appears" they did it, and be sure you have the collective experience they have, and equipment, etc. You know if they warmed up the engine first? And you know how hot they got the engine, before or during using the rv antifreeze? And your thermostat is in same condition as it was when they did it last. So there is no chance it could be closed, you'll be able to tell?

[Quinner]

Stat cold or warm should not play any role Scott, particularly on a ZR6 which is closed cooling.

I am not familiar with the drain kit but I sure would pay attention to how much water drains out and to be on the safe side would do a suck up paying attention to how much A/F it draws in before coming out the exhaust. If the amounts are close to the same you should be OK, If you want to triple check drain after the backfill and check with a refractometer what comes out.

[Twestfall]

I found nothin in the pcm manual regarding the drain kit. It is the "partially" closed cooling system. So the drain kit does drain from everywhere the manual says to drain. I did find the schematic in the pcm parts manual. Obviously I have no clue what the dealer had done in the past. I have been doing my own work on my previous boat with the Excalibur 330 for years with the open cooling system so I understand where you are coming from but this system with this setup is completely different. So I guess a better way to phrase my question is, has anyone had any experience with the drain kit and if so what is your process to winterized the raw water side of the system. Thanks

[Twestfall]

Quinner, thanks for the response. That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing.

[scottb7]

Mine is partial and there is both an raw water exhaust manifold thermostat as well as a coolant engine thermostat. So it really matters how warm the engine and both thermostat's get. I think safest thing to do - as i always say - is to just drain like they say in the manual. And then don't bother with the rv antifreeze.

P.s. You are right, the manual does not say to winterize any differently. They never do...Cause there is NO substitute for draining. But many dealers are experienced enough to warm up the engine and circulate rv antifreeze until engine is warm...

P.P.S. However, if Quinner says it is safe...then go for it...Unlike me he offers a warranty on his advice...

[Quinner]

Scott, where is the stat on the Raw Water side? Just looked at the diagram and do not see one??

Page 28.

http://www.planetnautique.com/Correc...s%20Manual.pdf

And my warranty is the same as yours, lol

[scottb7]

His year motor probably doesn't have one...I just don't know which year they started putting them on. And that is why I always say on these forums...follow the instructions and drain. Cause what if we told him he would be fine and he has one? Your really gonna figure out what year they put one on before you give advice?

Between you and me, I am getting super frustrated with all the people that are looking for short cuts.

[Twestfall]

I am by no means looking for a shortcut. No matter what I do I will be draining it weather it's using the quick drain system installation the factory or disconnecting all the hoses associated with it it. I came here looking for insight on the drain system installed on my engine as I I have not seen or heard of it before. I'm sorry that frustrates you!

[Andy]

Guest, sounds like good advice to me.

[scottb7]

You say you are not looking for a shortcut...but you just don't want to follow the operating manual that came with the boat/engine? yeah....ok...

It is ok to look for shortcuts...just admit it...be real...

come on...if the manual doesn't describe how to use the flush for winterizing then they probably don't recommend it...For no reason whatsoever..go for it...

[Tom_H]

Scott, you realize there's a difference between a drain kit and a flush kit, correct? OP, check that all drain locations marked out in the manual are piped in to the drain kit (with appropriate sloping), and it should be alright. One thing you'll miss with a drain kit is the ability to poke a wire or the like into the drain ports to make sure they're clear.

[scottb7]

Actually I don't think I did know. Thanks for the correction. I must be sleeping the last couple days on the job.

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[poecs13]

Late to the discussion, but it's also my first year with a ZR6 with the same closed cooling system and optional drain kit. Here are the water flow diagrams from the owner's manual so that we can all be on the same page with what's being discussed. The first image shows the closed cooling system and the seven plugs that need to be pulled to drain the raw water portion of the system. The fresh water portion of the system is anti-freeze so no worries there. The second image shows the optional drain kit referenced by the OP. The plugs have simply been replaced with hoses that lead to the front of the engine. In theory, pulling that one plug allows the entire raw water system to drain. I did a simple test of the drain kit over the weekend. I drained the raw water flow using the kit and then double checked at the seven plug locations to see if any additional water came out, and it does appear to be effective with one exception which is the plug marked "7" in the first diagram below. So in theory, to completely clear the raw water system, you would need to pull the drain kit plug and plug number 7. A crank or two on the engine to clear the impeller of water wouldn't be a bad move either. Is my theory sound? Any thoughts?