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I just winterized my "new to me" 2013 G23 w/ the 450 CES motor.....or so I hope I "winterized" it correctly. I had a 2004 210 SANTE w/ the Excalibur 330 and I always did ALL the maintenance and winterization to it every year. I knew the G would be different but also similar as far as changing the oil, oil filter, and draining the block. But a few things didn't go as I was use to it going with my 210.
1. Draining the oil. I always used an extractor with my 210 by extracting from the dipstick tube. I would always get almost all of it out. (4 quarts.) Doing it this way with the 450 I was barely able to get 2 quarts out. I've never used the drain hose. Just never messed with it since doing it with the extractor in the past has always worked just like it always works with my other pieces of equipment that I change motor oil in. So, I try draining the rest of the oil with the drain hose and I couldn't get any more oil to drain. But the dip stick still showed I had oil in the pan. What do you other guys do? What should I change in this procedure to get all the oil out of the pan/motor?
2. This motor has the partial closed cooling system. More or less.....half of the motor has DEXCOOL (I think is how the manual referred to it as) antifreeze kinda like a car and the other half is raw water cooled. I drained the raw water side and then pumped RV antifreeze through the system. I feel like this was pretty simple and like the 210. Do I need to do anything to the closed cooled side? This side also has my heater connected to it. I've read on here several times about you guys disconnecting the heater hoses and blowing it out. But I feel like that is not necessary since the closed cooled side has this DEXCOOL antifreeze in it and this is where my heater hoses are connected. The manual does explain how to drain and flush the system but doesn't say it does or doesn't need to be done to "winterize". Then it talks about some zinc anode thing. What do I need to do to that thing?? All the manual says is to check if more than 1 half is gone then replace. WTH??? Am I just over thinking this closed cooled side stuff??
3. When I was running the motor with the water hose connection to get the engine up to normal running temp to start the winterization process I noticed water coming out from around the prop shaft where it comes through the hull of the boat as well as the exhaust. Is that normal for this boat? I don't think my 210 did that. Always had just water coming out of the exhaust on it.
4. Do you guys leave out the engine bay partitions for the winter? Open all the compartment hatches? Remove anything special?......for the winter sit-up. Where I keep it stored I need to keep the cover on it and I put the tower down (under the cover) so everything would stay covered for the winter. I left the observer seat flipped up so that the 2 vinyl sides wouldn't be stuck together for so long and put 3 Damp-rid buckets inside / under the cover. 1 up front, 1 in the middle, and 1 in the back where the observer seat usually is when slid back. Anything else you guys recommend?
Thanks for all y'all's help.
1. Draining the oil. I always used an extractor with my 210 by extracting from the dipstick tube. I would always get almost all of it out. (4 quarts.) Doing it this way with the 450 I was barely able to get 2 quarts out. I've never used the drain hose. Just never messed with it since doing it with the extractor in the past has always worked just like it always works with my other pieces of equipment that I change motor oil in. So, I try draining the rest of the oil with the drain hose and I couldn't get any more oil to drain. But the dip stick still showed I had oil in the pan. What do you other guys do? What should I change in this procedure to get all the oil out of the pan/motor?
2. This motor has the partial closed cooling system. More or less.....half of the motor has DEXCOOL (I think is how the manual referred to it as) antifreeze kinda like a car and the other half is raw water cooled. I drained the raw water side and then pumped RV antifreeze through the system. I feel like this was pretty simple and like the 210. Do I need to do anything to the closed cooled side? This side also has my heater connected to it. I've read on here several times about you guys disconnecting the heater hoses and blowing it out. But I feel like that is not necessary since the closed cooled side has this DEXCOOL antifreeze in it and this is where my heater hoses are connected. The manual does explain how to drain and flush the system but doesn't say it does or doesn't need to be done to "winterize". Then it talks about some zinc anode thing. What do I need to do to that thing?? All the manual says is to check if more than 1 half is gone then replace. WTH??? Am I just over thinking this closed cooled side stuff??
3. When I was running the motor with the water hose connection to get the engine up to normal running temp to start the winterization process I noticed water coming out from around the prop shaft where it comes through the hull of the boat as well as the exhaust. Is that normal for this boat? I don't think my 210 did that. Always had just water coming out of the exhaust on it.
4. Do you guys leave out the engine bay partitions for the winter? Open all the compartment hatches? Remove anything special?......for the winter sit-up. Where I keep it stored I need to keep the cover on it and I put the tower down (under the cover) so everything would stay covered for the winter. I left the observer seat flipped up so that the 2 vinyl sides wouldn't be stuck together for so long and put 3 Damp-rid buckets inside / under the cover. 1 up front, 1 in the middle, and 1 in the back where the observer seat usually is when slid back. Anything else you guys recommend?
Thanks for all y'all's help.
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