Will this fit my 03 SANTE - Fake a Lake

[dhanni848]

In the description it says it won't but thought I had seen a video of someone using this. http://www.skidim.com/FAKE-A-LAKE/productinfo/FAK01/

[Luebowski]

I'm interested in the responses on this question too, that fake-a-lake looks like the one my buddy included when I got my boat but I havn't tried it. Plan to use it this winter though a couple of times to just keep things moving in the engine.

[obd666]

i can't see why it wouldn't. the water intake is not on a perfectly level part of the hull, but as long as you can cram it up against it good it would work. i personally would just not trust it to stay in place after i got in the boat and was no longer watching it. i just attach some big clear tubing onto the transmission cooler and have a bucket or cooler of water to draw from. then i can see the water flowing in

[charlesml3]

Agreed, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work unless the intake on your boat just happens to line up with the trailer axle or something such that this just can't reach the right spot.

-Charles

[Quinner]

Like OBD, not a big fan of those as you cannot see them and climbing in/out making the boat move they tend to fall off or come loose. Way better solution for less $$$ is to tee in a hose connection on your intake line, google search Timmy Tee on CCFan, many guys have posted the exact parts from HD/Menards/Ace/Etc to make your own.

[DW SD]

Unless this is a one time use need, I’d spend about $100 and install a garden hose adapter in to the cooling water intel system. Upstream of the raw water impeller and pump.

I specd out the design I use with part numbers from McMaster in a DIY thread.

Much more reliable than fake lake.

Doug




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[ski4evr]

I use one regularly. never had a problem. just jam it up good against hull. any overpressure just sprays out around the cup until engine is started. super easy.

[dhanni848]

I would only use it with another person present and just want it to warm the engine up. I will look into the T lines as well! Thanks everyone.

[wakejunky]

This is what we used when I worked at West Coast Correct Craft. We took an extra strainer and drilled a hole on the bottom and put a garden hose fitting on it. Then just unscrew the existing strainer off, screw in the modified one and hook up a hose (I have a quick disconnect on mine at home so, it doesn't leak out the water when removing the hose). This way you're not worried about having to jam the fake a lake under the boat and getting wet and dirty.

http://www.skidim.com/BOWL-CLEAR-WAT...info/SHE14380/

[DW SD]

This was the info on the homebuilt Tee inlet I posted previously. Obviously many ways to skin this cat.

• Here is 1 more solution for the GT40 PCM that should work for others if you adjust the correct cooling hose sizes to your application.
  
  I made my own all brass raw water cooler fitting. It is a 3/4" pipe brass T. The straight throughs are 3/4" pipe to 1" barbed hose adapters. The T is 3/4" pipe to garden hose. Install this between the strainer assembly and hull raw water pickup. You need a garden hose male plug for the T when on the lake. I made the plug with a male garden hose to female 3/4" pipe adapter and 3/4" pipe plug.
  One installed and clamps tightened......
  Attach the hose and turn it on wide open. The water will run out the bottom hull pickup until you get suction from the raw water pump once the engine is cranking.
  
  I've revved to about 2500 rpm without the hose collapsing.
  I bought all the parts from McMaster.com for $60. They deliver overnight to me in San Diego.
  
  Hope that helps someone.
  
  
  10-24-2016, 10:05 AM
  These are the parts I used, below.
  Note 1 - I only used one of 70514T44 (this is the T for the garden hose connection)
  Note 2 - All parts are brass, except the thread sealant tape.
  Note 3 - The last two items are just to make the male plug.
  Note 4 - in my case, I wanted to be able to thread a garden hose in easier than reaching down in the engine bay. I added a 5' high temp garden hose extension from McMaster and routed that behind the seat in to the starboard rear locker. When I'm ready to flush, I pull that hose up and out and attach the garden hose fresh water feed. That was another $18. This effectively makes the T 5' longer. :-)
  Note 5 - there is no need for low pressure regulator, etc. I've had this setup on two boats now and it works great. I like brass vs. plastic. Less likely to crack at an inopportune time and starve the engine of cooling water.

  1 70815T44 Brass Garden Hose to Pipe Swivel Fitting, 3/4" GHT Female X 3/4 NPT Female, Packs of 2 1 Pack 1 0 10.28 Per Pack 10.28 2 50785K283 Medium-Pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/4 Pipe Size, Female X Male X Female Tee with Thread Sealant 1 Each 1 0 20.17 Each 20.17 3 5346K69 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting, 1" Hose ID, 3/4 NPTF Male End, Packs of 2 1 Pack 1 0 12.23 Per Pack 12.23 4 6802K11 Military Grade Pipe Thread Sealant Tape, 14 yd L X 1/2" W, .0032" Thick, 0.7 G/CC Density 1 Each 1 0 2.24 Each 2.24 5 73605T93 Brass Garden Hose to Pipe Rigid Fitting, 3/4" GHT Male X 3/4 NPT Female, Packs of 1 1 Pack 1 0 4.46 Per Pack 4.46 6 50785K521 Medium-Pressure Brass Threaded Pipe Fitting, 3/4 Pipe Size, Hollow Hex-Head Plug 1 Each 1 0 4.90 Each 4.90

[functionoverfashion]

This is what we used when I worked at West Coast Correct Craft. We took an extra strainer and drilled a hole on the bottom and put a garden hose fitting on it. Then just unscrew the existing strainer off, screw in the modified one and hook up a hose (I have a quick disconnect on mine at home so, it doesn't leak out the water when removing the hose). This way you're not worried about having to jam the fake a lake under the boat and getting wet and dirty.

http://www.skidim.com/BOWL-CLEAR-WAT...info/SHE14380/

This is a great idea. My strainer isn't in great shape, so I was thinking about replacing it anyway. That will leave me with a spare strainer bowl to set up this way. So there's no issue with the fact that the strainer is obviously still open on the opposite side, while the engine is running? I guess you'd just want to keep an eye on it, to be sure it's not pulling air. Keep the RPM down, etc.

[dhanni848]

This is what we used when I worked at West Coast Correct Craft. We took an extra strainer and drilled a hole on the bottom and put a garden hose fitting on it. Then just unscrew the existing strainer off, screw in the modified one and hook up a hose (I have a quick disconnect on mine at home so, it doesn't leak out the water when removing the hose). This way you're not worried about having to jam the fake a lake under the boat and getting wet and dirty.

http://www.skidim.com/BOWL-CLEAR-WAT...info/SHE14380/

Pictures of where it is and how it looks? Owned direct drive before this season so still working on getting compfy with the V and where everything is.

[Wildcat04]

This is what we used when I worked at West Coast Correct Craft. We took an extra strainer and drilled a hole on the bottom and put a garden hose fitting on it. Then just unscrew the existing strainer off, screw in the modified one and hook up a hose (I have a quick disconnect on mine at home so, it doesn't leak out the water when removing the hose). This way you're not worried about having to jam the fake a lake under the boat and getting wet and dirty.

http://www.skidim.com/BOWL-CLEAR-WAT...info/SHE14380/

I’d love to see a picture of this set up to as well! Sounds like a real easy way to get water to the motor without a fake a lake or tearing into the raw water hoses.


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[NautiqueJeff]

Here's a picture of one of these in a G23 with the floor removed.

[Wildcat04]

Jeff, did you leave the strainer basket it or remove it when you used this method? I would assume using clean water from the hose the strainer wouldn’t be necessary.


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