1996 SN 5.7 PCM Q's

[StagNW]

I don't believe the GM 350 is common in these boats and I'm struggling to find info for service. I found the service manual here on PN, but it doesn't give much info on service. It's more of a repair manual. I have a few issues with the boat I'd like to sort as well as a full service before next season. Here are my Q's:

1. I have a heated garage, must I winterize the boat?

2. The throttle is stiff, have to hit it with your palm stiff while underway to adjust speeds. It feels fine with the engine off, I've disconnected the cables and they all move with no resistance. Is the throttle assembly a wear item on these boats?

3. The temp gauge stays relatively low while operating. My first thought is a thermostat stuck open, but again I'm not sure where it is, and what gaskets are required. Thoughts?

4. The steering cable has been replace with a factory part. Again, not in motion it turns freely, while underway it's two hands or bust to get this tank to turn. Is there a rudder bearing on these old boats that can be greased?

5. It looks like the raw water impeller is on the front of the crankshaft? Can anyone verify?

Just trying to get my ducks in a row before ordering parts and digging into this thing. Thanks in advance.






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[swc5150]

1. You don't need to winterize if your garage stays warm / above freezing. Rule of thumb 24/24; 24 hours at 24 degrees before damage occurs.

2. Throttle assembly can wear over time. Stiffness is subjective unfortunately. Is it difficult to apply throttle? There should be some resistance, but not enough where it's a struggle.

3. You should either have a 140 or 160 degree thermostat. 160's are preferable with a heater installed.

4. Steering should be easy, even with rudder torque. Being that the cable was replaced, I'd swap the rudder packing, which is cheap and easy.

5. Correct, the impeller is behind the cap with the 4 screws.

[StagNW]

1. You don't need to winterize if your garage stays warm / above freezing. Rule of thumb 24/24; 24 hours at 24 degrees before damage occurs.

2. Throttle assembly can wear over time. Stiffness is subjective unfortunately. Is it difficult to apply throttle? There should be some resistance, but not enough where it's a struggle.

3. You should either have a 140 or 160 degree thermostat. 160's are preferable with a heater installed.

4. Steering should be easy, even with rudder torque. Being that the cable was replaced, I'd swap the rudder packing, which is cheap and easy.

5. Correct, the impeller is behind the cap with the 4 screws.

It's extremely difficult to apply throttle. I tap it with my palm when I need to throttle up a little because it's not possible to control the throttle with thumb and index finger with your forearm resting on the rail like other boats I've driven. Precice adjustments are not an option. It's easy to reduce throttle.

I checked my temp gauge. It sits at 140, after reading your post. I believe the needle just doesn't point directly vertical like I'm used to on cars. Directly vertical is 180F.

Thanks for the information.

[Quinner]

If the boat is just going to sit in the garage and not be used and there is any chance temps could drop, I would at least drain everything, otherwise as Scott indicated it's fine.. Sounds like maybe your throttle control needs to be lubricated but running or not it should not feel any different? Disconnect the steering cable at the rudder tiller, if steers easy then, rudder needs service as Scott suggested, if still stiff issue could be at the helm.

[StagNW]

I starting taking the boat apart and inspecting things. Before I did, I noticed metal shavings building up around the throttle handle.



I took the rest of the control off, I didn't find anything from a visual inspection. I'm going to bite the bullet and replace the throttle assembly, I might as well do the cable while I'm in there.






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[Calisdad]

The carbureted motors use a 140' thermostat and the EFI engines use a 160' thermostat