Do or Can I do more? Or is it what it is? (Oxidation removal and decal)

[Rockymtnsurfer]

I thought I would ask around before I go through a second work out on polishing this boat up. Thoughts?

Before Pics: (I thought this would be better for opinions)

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Marin 31 Heavy Oxidation removal.........and heavy med and light pad system used. Finished with wool polish

This is the first half:

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Finished look.......looks nice and shiny!

[Rockymtnsurfer]

This is the problem......when I get in certain lights and certain angles.......I still see the water marks.......I can also see staining still as well. From afar this boat looks nice....even up close it looks nice, but these certain angles are driving me nuts!

My plan was to do the whole thing again...same process.....I was going to test a spot and see if more comes off today......but i thought I would see if anyone has been here before.

If it is what it is! this will save me time

Thanks

[hyperlitep]

I’m going through the same thing with my 206. Boat looks great but in certain lights I can see oxidation. I buffed it with 3m super duty but it wasn’t good enough for me so now I’m wet sanding starting with 1000 grit. Working my way up to 2000 grit. Then I will buff it out after I’m done.

[jshack01]

If you really can't live with it then wet sanding is the next step. The oxidation has gone deep and your just going to have to bring the surface down to make it go away. I would be VERY conservative follow in the footsteps of hyperlitep Go with 1000 grit wet follow by 2000 grit and then buff. My only experience with this was on an old 1987 Ebbtide I owned years ago and wasn't too concerned about screwing something up. I would be sweating on my Nautique so you may want to consult some others before thinning out that gelcoat too much. I believe 1000 grit is appropriate here but I am by no means an expert.

[jshack01]

I thought I would just add something else as I've seen this before. When you are buffing heavy in a certain spot, you can cause more material to be removed in one spot over the other. Especially with some of these heavy oxidation removers. This can cause some unintended swirling effects. It isn't that easy to do but it can happen. It doesn't sound like this is your issue but I thought I would mention it for completeness.

If you wet sand, wrap the paper around a block so you level the area out. Because of the boat contours, you'll probably need something a bit stiff but flexible as opposed to just a block of wood. I'm thinking like a soft wood like in an old yard stick or something. This unevenness can play with the light as well and cause issues. You might just get some 2000 grit, wrap it around a block and go over the area to see what happens.

[Quinner]

You really need to look at your compounds, as an example 3M super duty is about a 1400 grit so going beyond 1200 is not doing you any good. For the OP, not sure about the products you are using, my recommendation that is a proven winner is after wetsand (if req'd) 3M super duty compound - 3M Finnese it - 3M Perfect it - Collinite Wax

[Infinity]

Getting ready to do this on my boat too since it was dry docked for a while and the forklift left some scratches in the hull...there is some light oxidation, but not bad since its a 2014. Scares the crap out of me to be honest, but I am hoping I have read enough threads on it to do it right and I bought the special Makita polisher and all the materials in the fall, so just working myself up to actually get r done. I know its labor intensive too and since I never get a full day, I will probably have to work on it over 2 weekends. Been reading up on every thread I can find to make sure I do it right.

[DW SD]

I’ve read gelcoat is thickness of a credit card. That really thick to me given the grit of sandpaper involved.

I’ve done 1500 grit, 2500 and then full polish on dark two stage auto paint to remove orange peel, fine scratches etc.

The clear coat on a car is a fraction of that thickness. It takes a long time with 1500 grit on an random orbital to remove paint.

I say proceed with caution but don’t stress. I think you’d have to go for a very long time in one spot to do damage requiring someone to add gelcoat back.

And even that can be repaired!

Doug


Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique

[Rockymtnsurfer]

I think I might be living with it.....makes me super nervous....and it seems like it commits you to the entire hull? and anyone tried oxidize remover or scratch mover more than one time around? Again...seems like you have to commit to the whole hull. Thanks for the info and pointers

[DW SD]

I like this video that might give you some confidence. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZexSavaT4tY
There are a million others - BTW.

I was freaked out about 5 months ago about color sanding on my new to me, but old 2008 Tundra. It turned out kick a$$. I removed a lot of very fine scratches and orange peel. According to the video, the gel coat is 7 X thicker than auto clear coat.
A random orbital, interestingly, is less aggressive than hand wet sanding with the same grit. I also use an interference pad (foam pad between hard sander surface and sand paper itself.
This truck really looks new, now, short of a few deep scratches.
I also am doing the same process, with slightly different polishes on my RV wheels.

YOU CAN DO IT! I saw your upholstery work :-) You must be very patient.

Doug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZexSavaT4tY

[Indygreen]

I just finished my 08 230. It is red and had oxidation. Wet sanded heavily areas with 1200, 1500,3000 3M heavy cutting compound, 3M finess-it and then wax. Some areas I didn’t wet sand but the majority of it I did multiple times with the 3M cutting compound and finess-it. To me the oxidation wasn’t that bad compared to other boats I’ve had and was surprised it took so much work but people have said red is the worst color to get back. I was like you, it looked good in certain light but different in others and I couldn’t stand it so I continued to buff. I used halogen lights, they really bring out the flawed areas. Mine turned out really nice and very consistent across the whole boat.

[Indygreen]

Here’s the finished product.

[fb_rider]

Do it before you put your interior back in. It's somewhat messy. I started last night using 1000 then Presta PMC complete compound on a wool buffer. It makes a huge difference. I'l post some pics after the weekend.