Do or Can I do more? Or is it what it is? (Oxidation removal and decal)

[Indygreen]

Looks like your really getting it. Its definitely trial and error and nerve racking at the same time. Looks really good. When I got really close I just continued to polish with Finesse-it, multiple passes. Then when I was satisfied I finished with wax. Not saying this is correct but it worked well for me.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Good thought.....I haven't put a wax on yet......was going to give it a few days and decide if I want to do the other side. I am sort of curious if the other side will come back with the oxi vs. the sanded side. I think I really am just thinking very lazy!

[willnich77]

You guys have me debating but I'm thinking I'm going to take to the marina by me and see what they'll charge. I'd love to do it but makes me nervous and hard to find the time to spend on it. Hoping they can knock out the heavy oxidation and I'll maintain forward. 13 year old boat I just got last year and don't think it's ever been done.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using PLT Nautique mobile app

[Infinity]

Finally worked up the nerve to start sanding boat today. Pretty happy how things are coming. All my light oxidation and water spots come off easily with a few passes of Boat Candy cutting compound.....then I have the Boat Candy Polish and Collinite Wax.
I have not waxed anything yet, worked for about 4hrs on boat today.....Pic #1 is after I sanded with 2000 grit. It took longerbut i did not want to go with rougher stuff since it already made me nervous, this was the largest spot I had to do so made a good pic. Pic #2 is after 2 times of using the cutting compound. Still some light swirls in it which I hope that the Polish will take out if i work it long enough. Plan to finish tomorrow and then wax the boat. I did not think to take pics of the scratches before sanding, nothing was very deep. My flake was also easy to sand out light scratches and restore

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Did you sand up and dwn or rt to left....just curious.....or all around?
D

[Infinity]

Did you sand up and dwn or rt to left....just curious.....or all around?
D

I have rotary variable speed Makita with 9" pads....with wool pad I first spread around on speed #1 going very slow, 2 overlapping passes up and down and 2 passes left to right....then I sped it up to around 1200rpm and did the same....2 overlapping passes up and down and then left to right.

With polishing, I read that you use different pad of course, but a wool synthetic blend, not straight wool cause too agressive

[Rockymtnsurfer]

I did my one side by hand.....I have the PC rotary with red yell and blck pads plus wool. I was thinking about doing the other side with machine and not by hand. You seemed more satisfied with the process than me....so I am thankful you brought that up....there might be hope. The "ready to get on the water" side of me....and my new skins arriving Tues.....My plan was to see how the Marine 31 holds up on one side vs sanding on the other. Rough life choices..Thanks Again...Happy Easter

[b4yougo2]

I have used muriatic acid diluted 5 to 1 with water to remove oxidation and stains with great success. This is why others have had success with toilet bowl cleaner. Muriatic acid is one of the active ingredients. It will not react with fiberglass or any vinyl decals. You do have to be careful around any metallic or glass surfaces as they can be etched by the acid. Make sure you use protective gloves and eye protection as it will burn your skin and you definitely don't want to get it in your eyes. Apply it with a sponge and let it sit for 15 min. Rinse and repeat. You will be surprised at the results! You can pick it up at any Home Depot or pool supply store for about 5 bucks a gallon.

[Infinity]

I did my one side by hand.....I have the PC rotary with red yell and blck pads plus wool. I was thinking about doing the other side with machine and not by hand. You seemed more satisfied with the process than me....so I am thankful you brought that up....there might be hope. The "ready to get on the water" side of me....and my new skins arriving Tues.....My plan was to see how the Marine 31 holds up on one side vs sanding on the other. Rough life choices..Thanks Again...Happy Easter

In my opinion, no way you can get it right by hand without a serious amount or work and time. If 2 full days to do mine with machine....would think it would be twice that by hand and just dont think you can work the material right by hand to get all the swirls and scratches out.

[Blamey]

In my opinion, no way you can get it right by hand without a serious amount or work and time. If 2 full days to do mine with machine....would think it would be twice that by hand and just dont think you can work the material right by hand to get all the swirls and scratches out.

I've tried to do it by hand in areas where the buffer was too big.

No way you are getting anywhere with 3m marine glaze by hand. I've tried and you just don't the get the shine you get from a good quality polisher.

You can use super duty by hand but it takes about 10 to 20 times longer then with a machine.

Rocky, If you haven't used a buffer on the side, I suggest you give it a go, just keep it moving and you won't have issues. Gel is pretty tough.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Early morning post...and I realized I was wrong how my point came out..sorry guys. The basic thought going through my head was...."Can you use the rotor for sanding?" this is what seems to poop me out. For polisher...I use 3m heavy duty rubbing and then finesse. The 31marine was the product I tried first before anything to see if it would work.....shines nice...but i know it won't last. Then I tried the sanding.......and the problem is its not a spot.....its the whole great part of the hull. So the sanding crushed me.

I think I read "Infinity's" post and start thinking rotor...sanding etc...sorry folks...it was like 4 or 5 for me

[DW SD]

I'm not sure if I'm following the dilemma.
a random orbital sander might be the ticket. I use a 7" Festool random orbital direct-drive sander with an interface pad between it and the sand paper to reduce the chance of pressing in one spot. With a random orbital and interface pad it is LESS aggressive than doing it by hand. Well, at least the scratches run every different direction and there is zero chance of gouging.

If you haven't tried this, you can get a random orbital (like a DA for use with air) or electric RO polisher at harbor freight for $80. Amazon has them too for similar price.

I would believe a great starting point is 2000 grit on a random orbital machine. Sand until you've got a uniform surface of light 2k grit scratches doing sections at a time.

And then polish from there. You should get consistent results with limited risk.

I also bought the a kit of 1k, 1500 and 2000 grit sand paper for my sander on Amazon.

The interface pad was about $15.

Doug

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Thanks Doug...thats exactly what I was looking for!

[DW SD]

A tool like this seems a really good deal and highly rated by buyers on AMZN. It even comes with a variety of pads.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCHA3DG...&pd_rd_w=gm37j

The Festool, german made one I have, cost about $400 10 years ago. It has the added advantage of changing the gearing for throw. The larger throw allows more aggressive sanding / polishing with a given grit. I'd not spend the money on that. But I bought it before I did months of wood working projects (building cabinets and doors at my home).

Hope that helps!

Doug

[DW SD]

Added a few more notes to post 42, also.