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Gang,
First time replacing the impeller on my 2017 230 with the 6.0L engine. I've done dozens of these before on the GT-40 and the Excaliber that came in the SV-211. Here's the process for the 230:
1) You cannot do this from the top. There simply is not enough room to get your arms in there and move wrenches around.
2) Get everything out of both lockers. Ropes, vests, storage tray, engine divider panels.
3) On the port side, you will need to deal with the rear bulkhead panel that's attached to the slide for the divider. You can either remove it entirely or work it around where it's out of the way enough to work. I removed mine which involved removing the grease fitting bracket from the panel.
4) Remove the belt cover. Two knurled knobs up on top. Then swing it out a little and then it will slide down off the pegs at the bottom. I find it's actually best to let it lay in the bilge under all the pulleys. Handy if you drop a washer or something...
5) With a 15mm wrench, swing the belt tensioner over and remove the belt.
6) Now switch over to the starboard side locker.
7) The rear bulkhead panel on this side has to come out. There's just nowhere to position it in such a way that you can access the pump. Unfortunately, the fuel/water separator bracket and the blower bracket are both attached to this panel. Take the bolts out and move them out of the way.
8) At the top of the panel is some kind of electrical box. I don't know what it does, but there's a plug right there. Disconnect that and take the panel out of the boat.
9) Next you'll have to decide about the aluminum rails that hold the engine divider panel. I tried to access the pump with this still in the boat. No luck. I just couldn't get to the pump easily. I took the bolts out at the bottom. the screws out at the top and the screws holding it to the front bulkhead panel and took the entire bracket out.
10) At this point you should have fairly good access to the pump. Grab the pulley and turn it until the holes in the pulley line up with the three bolts holding the pump housing together.
11) Loosen the three bolts. Note that these bolts are captured. They don't need to come all the way out of the pump housing. Just get them plenty loose and stop there.
12) Grab the pulley and pull it towards the stern. Almost always, the pulley and housing will slide out leaving the impeller in the pump. Take the pulley out of the boat.
13) Grab the impeller near the center with needle-nose pliers and wiggle it out.
14) Cover the new impeller with dish soap to make it slide in easier. Insert it into the pump with a counter-clockwise twisting motion. Push it until it's fully seated into the pump.
15) Examine the pulley and housing. There will be a big o-ring inside the lip. Remove it with a small screwdriver or something. Replace it with the one in the impeller kit.
16) There will be three tiny o-rings in the kit. They go onto the bolts if needed. Replace any that are damaged or missing.
17) Note that the pump shaft has a flat-spot on it which aligns with the impeller. Insert the pulley and housing into the impeller and align the housing with the pump.
18) Get one bolt started. Don't tighten it down all the way. Once you have one started, the other two go fairly easy. Get the other two started as well.
19) Go back to the first bolt and get it finger-tight. Then the other two.
20) Go back to the first bolt and snug it down. Then the other two. You do not need to really crank down on these. Just get them tight and stop there.
21) Put the belt back on. There's a handy diagram on the belt cover to show you the routing. Make SURE the belt is cleanly seated on every pulley.
22) Make sure all tools, work lights, etc. are out of the way and either drop the boat into the water or get your fake-a-lake going. Start the engine and look for any leaks around the pump.
23) Replace the belt cover and all the panels you took out. It's pretty much the reverse of the steps above.
That's about it. It took me about 2 hours to complete this and honestly, it wasn't that bad. No, not NEARLY as easy as working on a direct-drive GT-40, but it is what it is. I wouldn't hesitate to tackle this project again.
-Charles
First time replacing the impeller on my 2017 230 with the 6.0L engine. I've done dozens of these before on the GT-40 and the Excaliber that came in the SV-211. Here's the process for the 230:
1) You cannot do this from the top. There simply is not enough room to get your arms in there and move wrenches around.
2) Get everything out of both lockers. Ropes, vests, storage tray, engine divider panels.
3) On the port side, you will need to deal with the rear bulkhead panel that's attached to the slide for the divider. You can either remove it entirely or work it around where it's out of the way enough to work. I removed mine which involved removing the grease fitting bracket from the panel.
4) Remove the belt cover. Two knurled knobs up on top. Then swing it out a little and then it will slide down off the pegs at the bottom. I find it's actually best to let it lay in the bilge under all the pulleys. Handy if you drop a washer or something...
5) With a 15mm wrench, swing the belt tensioner over and remove the belt.
6) Now switch over to the starboard side locker.
7) The rear bulkhead panel on this side has to come out. There's just nowhere to position it in such a way that you can access the pump. Unfortunately, the fuel/water separator bracket and the blower bracket are both attached to this panel. Take the bolts out and move them out of the way.
8) At the top of the panel is some kind of electrical box. I don't know what it does, but there's a plug right there. Disconnect that and take the panel out of the boat.
9) Next you'll have to decide about the aluminum rails that hold the engine divider panel. I tried to access the pump with this still in the boat. No luck. I just couldn't get to the pump easily. I took the bolts out at the bottom. the screws out at the top and the screws holding it to the front bulkhead panel and took the entire bracket out.
10) At this point you should have fairly good access to the pump. Grab the pulley and turn it until the holes in the pulley line up with the three bolts holding the pump housing together.
11) Loosen the three bolts. Note that these bolts are captured. They don't need to come all the way out of the pump housing. Just get them plenty loose and stop there.
12) Grab the pulley and pull it towards the stern. Almost always, the pulley and housing will slide out leaving the impeller in the pump. Take the pulley out of the boat.
13) Grab the impeller near the center with needle-nose pliers and wiggle it out.
14) Cover the new impeller with dish soap to make it slide in easier. Insert it into the pump with a counter-clockwise twisting motion. Push it until it's fully seated into the pump.
15) Examine the pulley and housing. There will be a big o-ring inside the lip. Remove it with a small screwdriver or something. Replace it with the one in the impeller kit.
16) There will be three tiny o-rings in the kit. They go onto the bolts if needed. Replace any that are damaged or missing.
17) Note that the pump shaft has a flat-spot on it which aligns with the impeller. Insert the pulley and housing into the impeller and align the housing with the pump.
18) Get one bolt started. Don't tighten it down all the way. Once you have one started, the other two go fairly easy. Get the other two started as well.
19) Go back to the first bolt and get it finger-tight. Then the other two.
20) Go back to the first bolt and snug it down. Then the other two. You do not need to really crank down on these. Just get them tight and stop there.
21) Put the belt back on. There's a handy diagram on the belt cover to show you the routing. Make SURE the belt is cleanly seated on every pulley.
22) Make sure all tools, work lights, etc. are out of the way and either drop the boat into the water or get your fake-a-lake going. Start the engine and look for any leaks around the pump.
23) Replace the belt cover and all the panels you took out. It's pretty much the reverse of the steps above.
That's about it. It took me about 2 hours to complete this and honestly, it wasn't that bad. No, not NEARLY as easy as working on a direct-drive GT-40, but it is what it is. I wouldn't hesitate to tackle this project again.
-Charles
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