Brakes on....and gauges pop on 2003 210 SANTE

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Hey all,
I have searched on the sight for my answer or suggestions on a solution for a day now and decided to just ask.

2003 210 SANTE

Starts like a champ, Idles like a champ, can putter around like a champ. Give it more than a putter it starts to go...and goes.....but constantly feels like someone is apply a brake. Then is I go big with the throttle, it almost dies and two times had a small back fire. My whole thought has been that this is a full issue. Threads have ALL different suggestions. I could start replacing everything, but would like to save some cash. Boat ran fine before it was winterized.

I have:

Replaced impeller (piece of mind)
Oil and fuel filter changed (fuel filter was brown)
All spark plugs changed out
Differential cap.....checked underneath and looked fine, but wondering if I check under second cap also? or just the first cap? not sure

Ran it with a hose, harder to feel or hear the brakes....thought it was fixed until I went out yesterday. I think my changes helped it, but still bogs.


That is the first issue



Second issue (and I know about the gauge repair etc for this model)

Gauges work, but not right off the bat. Warm up the boat, cruise for a little bit, and bam..they pop on. Looked at connections in stern.....everything tight. Thoughts ?


I do understand that there are many things that could be going wrong here.........this is your perfect example of bust out another $1000.

I would prefer to bust out another $500 if possible.

CHEAP HELP PLEASE! Thank you everyone ...I appreciate it.
Dave

[functionoverfashion]

On the distributor cap, can you post a picture of what that looked like underneath? If it will run OK at speed for a long time, it doesn't sound quite like a fuel delivery issue. I'd lean more toward ignition... but that's just a first thought.

Gauges... mine do that too, but it's only a couple that do it. Do none of your gauges work at first? Or just the four (temp, oil, fuel, volt)?

[neirbot]

My money would be on the distributor cap. My 2008 had the same symptoms until I replaced the cap.

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[Rockymtnsurfer]

Thank you gentlemen....I am going back to the cap tonight and going to take a picture.....I don't think I looked at the right stuff. I took the two screws off and pulled the top aside. looked clean etc....but I think I was supposed to take off the round lid? Rotor cap? didn't do that....made me nervous. Am I correct that I didn't investigate it enough?

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Gauges: volts looks working all the time. temp, gas, oil, rpm, speed.....all come on at the same time....no specific timing ......just a wow! there on thing.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Dis Cap Pics

[Infinity]

Don't think anyone could say for sure by hearing symptoms and be right every time...but cap, rotor, plugs n wires are items that require replacement every so often. Cap can cause that issue and you cannot always tell just by looking at it. IMO that is best place to start and cap n rotor are not that expensive. If you still have an issue after that, then perhaps you are looking at a fuel pump since you already replaced the inline fuel filter? You can check fuel pressure to confirm tho before throwing money at that. Sometimes bogging can be timing related too.

[Blamey]

Have you checked your fuel pressure?

Old gas maybe?

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[Rockymtnsurfer]

New Gas.....Fuel pressure no. I do appreciate the feed back.

I texted the old owner from last fall.....interesting comments he made:

HIM: Never have issue with running engine. Always goes really smooth and only when it’s not cooling enough, boat not let you hit full speed, because there is overheating sensor. I can think of only one possible thing Which will be crankshaft sensor. It’s located on the bottom of the engine under crankshaft wheel, really close to impeller pump. Just thinking when last time pump start leaking, it was pouring water straight on the sensor and in full speed I got little shortage and that was the reason why I patched the pump. Clean up sensor and connector, maybe there is corrosion.

ME: I’m looking at it now is this way it’s wrapped in electrical tape

HIM:Yes, because last time when pump was shooting water straight on it I try to protect it and I put a duck taped over it before I fix a leak with patch. But when I fix the leak with patch, boat was running absolutely perfect.


Frustrating But thats where I am. Going to order the cap. Was going to look into the sensor thing...have tape off of it and it un-plugged. Checked fuel line in tanks see if blockage ...none.

Taking it to the lake tomm to meet with a bat mechanic......I am trying to do everything by myself.....hoping someones help will help me trouble shoot it.

Anymore comments....besides welcome to boating......would love to hear them. Tons of options! I know. Thank you again.

[gary s]

Your 1st picture is of the rotor,the second picture,the cap is what you are holding to the side in your hand. Replace both. Known problem with Chevy engines

[functionoverfashion]

Your 1st picture is of the rotor,the second picture,the cap is what you are holding to the side in your hand. Replace both. Known problem with Chevy engines

^^ Exactly this. The distributor cap is the part in your left hand. Look inside of that at the metal contact points, if they aren't clean, it's a sign you should replace the cap and the part below that (the rotor). This is an easy place to start.

If you do it yourself, take care in replacing the wires in the exact same order, of course. You can transfer them one at a time, just line up the new cap and old one side by side.

Then this business about a sensor getting wet from a leaking pump... let's see if the boat runs well with a new cap & rotor first.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Thank you very much....just ordered both for a overnight.....thanks again!

[Blamey]

And get a fuel pressure tester. It is an easy way to eliminate a very possible cause of the symptoms you are having.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

great suggestion...on it!!

[G]

What does the connections on the bottom of the cap look like, where each plug wire point comes in contact with the rotor button? I have a 2003 SAN that does the exact same thing and kept getting corrosion on the terminals. I could clean them off and it would run fine after that. I installed a new cap, but It will still corrode up but not as bad or as often. I still have to clean them off about once a season.