Tweet
With summer right around the corner I decided to tackle two pretty large projects I've been planning over the winter. As a mechanical engineer by trade, I might have went a little overboard with this, but I wanted to do this the correct way the first time around so I wouldn't be digging back into it a year or two down the road.
Ballast Install:
Before I settled on my design I drafted about 11 different drawings in AutoCAD going back and forth between aerator and reversible systems.
The things I liked about the aerator system were the lower cost and faster fill times. But I didn't like how I would have to overcome the problem with priming them, adding check valves, and the potential problem of passive filling while driving. Another problem in a direct drive is the limited space for twice as many pumps.
The system I chose to go with utilizes 2 Johnson reversible pumps; one is mounted behind the driver kick panel and the other is in the trunk on a 3/8" piece of HDPE. The one in the trunk will be used to fill/drain an 800lb Sumo Sac in the trunk. The front pump is connected to a T with two ball valves after it. One side of the T goes to a custom 400lb ski locker sack and the other side goes back through a hole I drilled in the ski locker into the engine compartment, between the gas tank and rear seat backrest, and comes out the driver's side for a plug-and-play fill/drain line which will attach to a 750lb Fly High sack. This sack can either lie across the back seat or on either side of the doghouse to add some extra weight for surfing.
I went with all 1" hardware and hoses. Each drain line has a check valve to redirect the water to drain out the side of the hull. The drain and vent lines also connect before the thru-hull. For wiring I ran 12 gauge duplex wire from Wakemakers. I wired it from the pumps to the switches, then from the switches to the battery. Each pump has an inline 30 amp fuse. If I add another pump in the future I'll install a circuit panel to make everything a little more organized.
As you can see here by the sharpie mark, that was where I originally planned to drill the hole. When I went under the hull I realized it was on an angle so I had to move it down a couple of inches. When I did that the ball valve couldn't close, so I spun the handle around and bent it 90 degrees.
No that's not a crack, just the reflection of the tarp.
Ballast Install:
Before I settled on my design I drafted about 11 different drawings in AutoCAD going back and forth between aerator and reversible systems.
The things I liked about the aerator system were the lower cost and faster fill times. But I didn't like how I would have to overcome the problem with priming them, adding check valves, and the potential problem of passive filling while driving. Another problem in a direct drive is the limited space for twice as many pumps.
The system I chose to go with utilizes 2 Johnson reversible pumps; one is mounted behind the driver kick panel and the other is in the trunk on a 3/8" piece of HDPE. The one in the trunk will be used to fill/drain an 800lb Sumo Sac in the trunk. The front pump is connected to a T with two ball valves after it. One side of the T goes to a custom 400lb ski locker sack and the other side goes back through a hole I drilled in the ski locker into the engine compartment, between the gas tank and rear seat backrest, and comes out the driver's side for a plug-and-play fill/drain line which will attach to a 750lb Fly High sack. This sack can either lie across the back seat or on either side of the doghouse to add some extra weight for surfing.
I went with all 1" hardware and hoses. Each drain line has a check valve to redirect the water to drain out the side of the hull. The drain and vent lines also connect before the thru-hull. For wiring I ran 12 gauge duplex wire from Wakemakers. I wired it from the pumps to the switches, then from the switches to the battery. Each pump has an inline 30 amp fuse. If I add another pump in the future I'll install a circuit panel to make everything a little more organized.
As you can see here by the sharpie mark, that was where I originally planned to drill the hole. When I went under the hull I realized it was on an angle so I had to move it down a couple of inches. When I did that the ball valve couldn't close, so I spun the handle around and bent it 90 degrees.
No that's not a crack, just the reflection of the tarp.
Comment