Transmission slip or cavitation?

[SatherG230]

Cruising on the lake yesterday with our 2012 SAN 230 when I heard a "tink" noise and then the boat transmission seemed to be slipping - especially over rougher water or in slight turns. At first, I thought we hit bottom or a piece of debris, but there was no additional vibration. Just seemed to slip occasionally and list a bit to starboard. Checked the prop when we pulled it out and nothing obvious to introduce cavitation that wasn't there before. Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting the problem? If there is already a thread on this, I can check that out, too.

[Infinity]

Have you checked trans and v-drive fluids?

[SatherG230]

Yes, but later learned I had checked it wrong. Had engine off and trans fluid was high on the stick. PCM 40 is apparently supposed to be checked while running. Have not checked V drive yet, but all was fine until I heard that "tink" sound. Going to the garage with a flashlight to give everything a look over for any broken/ loose mounts or anything else that may appear out of order. Will check the v drive, too.

[Infinity]

Do you mean the PCM ZR409 engine?
If so in my manual the specs for the "80 series" in the 1:23 or 1:1 (which replaced the 40 series and I assume it would be checked the same)....manual says "trans should be checked cold or at least 2 mins after shutting off engine". You re-insert dipstick but do not screw it back into the threads to check fluid level. Maybe you screwed it back into threads and that is why it looked high?

V-drive likely does not have a dipstick....you will likely see a small, square plug...think 10mm socket on my boat (there is one on each side of v-drive). It may also be slipping if water got in there, don't know if water has been high in your bilge, there is a vent that can allow water in. Check tag and it will tell you what kind of v-drive you have....also check the tag for transmission just so you know in case you need the info.

Hopefully it was just a fluke but better to be safe than sorry and check everything. Look at prop closely too, does not take much to bend these props, even a slight bend could cause it to act differently and it may not be easy to see unless you look at each blade carefully. The "tink" sound is the weird thing and you would think either something was hit or something broke loose somewhere (did it sound like it came from engine area or under boat). Maybe someone else will chime in with more ideas

[SatherG230]

I have the ZR450 engine with the IRM40-1S 1:1 transmission. I read the instructions for the other one, but my book says to check this one while running. I just don't have the ability to check it until I can get it back on the water.

I checked all the mounts and the shift linkage and everything appears fine and nothing appears to have moved or broken. The V-drive does have a little stem to serve as a dip stick. Checked that (without threading it) and the fluid was jclear and just under the full mark. The drive has never been underwater - always trailered with the bilge plug out.

Which, leads me to the "tink" sound that preceeded the issue. Almost sounded like someone dropped a a small wrench in the bilge, but without a "ring" or vibration, if that makes sense. Reminded me of the only time I nicked a rock, closed throttle in reverse, at a boat landing. But that time it vibrated terribly and bent over a blade. Now, it idles and powers up as smooth as ever - just seems to slip occasionally on plane over rough water or in turns. I took a yardstick and put it against the trailer as a reference and it appears that there is a variation of maybe 1/2 centimeter (it was closest to the metric side) when I turn each blade past the stick. Could that be enough to cause cavitation?

[Infinity]

Do you have a spare prop you can put on there to rule that out? Honestly, I am out of ideas...if you did not have the cavitation before then it seems something happened to change how prop operates. Assume you have had boat for a while with that prop and it never happened before?
If fluids are good and you feel comfortable running boat, I would test it again to double check you still have an issue that you did not have before and make sure you did not have weeds or something temporarily wrap around prop that cleared before removing the boat to look at prop.
Spare prop is always a good thing to have too. Nettles Prop in Austin, TX has really good pricing....Wakemakers is also usually decent but call ACME to get best recommendations for a prop based on how you run the boat since they get the most feedback and have a lot of historical data to recommend props. You can also buy from them and they have 30 day replacement guarantee if you dont like the size prop you get the first time....you just pay shipping

[SatherG230]

Yes, I do have a spare prop that I will try this weekend and check for proper tranny fluid level . I have put about 225 hours on this boat and have not had it do this before. I pulled the prop tonight and will take it to the Prop Doc in Minneapolis on Friday. They are the ones that repaired it last time and it ran fine until now. They said they can check it while I wait. You are correct on a spare prop...cheap insurance when on vacation!

[AGGIE00]

I have the same issue when turning hard in my 230. I knew it was cavitation, but it felt like a clutch slipping. Just took a look at the prop and it has a few dings, or minor bends, in it. Is that enough to cause cavitation?


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[Infinity]

I have the same issue when turning hard in my 230. I knew it was cavitation, but it felt like a clutch slipping. Just took a look at the prop and it has a few dings, or minor bends, in it. Is that enough to cause cavitation?


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Any damage to these props can potentially cause issues over time that are worse than cavitation..... I would not run a damaged/dinged/bent prop for long, even if its minor. Don't know where in TX you are located, but Nettles Prop is located in Austin, TX...they do great repairs and also have some of the best pricing on new props.

[SatherG230]

Had the Prop Doc look at the prop on Friday. He put it on the block or jig they use when they repair them and said that a couple of the blades were bent back slightly, but was unsure whether enough to cause a problem. Went out yesterday with a different prop and checked transmission fluid level while running. Level within spec -just above bottom mark. Ran strong and no slipping or cavitation at any speed all the way to 46.5mph. Surfed with all ballast (factory plus add on) full and no problems. Actually happy to say that I am glad my prop is damaged! Cheapest fix, as it can be repaired for $65. Thank you, Infinity, for your input! Yes, these props are fussy. It does not take much to make them act up.

[AGGIE00]

Great information. I need to buy a new one and get the old repaired as a standby. What’s best for surfing and wake boarding? I have no need to go over 30, so speed is not an issue


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[SatherG230]

Depends on your boat and motor. Check out Wakemakers.com. They have a prop selector guide that recommends a prop for your boat and it's use. Also, I believe someone suggested Nettle's as an option for new and repair.

[Infinity]

Great information. I need to buy a new one and get the old repaired as a standby. What’s best for surfing and wake boarding? I have no need to go over 30, so speed is not an issue


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A good question to start with....is what prop do you have on boat now? That way you have a starting point. Prop can also depend on engine,tho not as much...I assume you have the 409 engine in your boat? Being in TX, you probably have no elevation issues which is the other thing to consider.

But if you know what prop you have now, what its doing compared to what you WANT it to do is the best starting point. i believe WakeMakers recommends a #1235 (14.5 x 14.25) for middle of the road...and unless heavily weighted or high elevation this is likely good for most situations and you lose very little top end. The other one which would give you a TON of low end is the #2079 (14.5 x 12)....top speed on this prop would prob be around 35 which I know you said does not matter to you, but it slightly effects cruising speed since you dont wanna run or extended periods over 4000rpm My guess is with that prop, you would be going roughly 25mph @ 4000rpm. The point mostly being that its best to get something that is right where you want it.

Let us know what prop you currently have on boat. You can check pricing and call Wakemakers and Nettle Prop to see what they say to confirm. ACME has a LOT of historical data on these boats too and could give you a great recommendation so you know what direction to go.