Rough night -- fried alternator

[mfloski]

Grant, I am about to install one of those same alternators, like you I am going to experience the same issues. The company that i work for has a complete machine shop and one of the older machinest is going to custom fabricate the needed but unavailable pulles (sheaves). My question for you is, did you rewire the entire alternater system for the larger alternator (larger gauge wire across the board)? Also, what about the factory breaker system, mine has a single 50amp breaker. Does this stay in the system? If my alternator is putting out 165 to 210amps, won't i have to replace that breaker or am i seeing this wrong? Any other advise you can give regarding this upgrade? I plan to use the Balmar Alternator and regulator. Thanks in advance!!

[Mikeski]

Mflo,

I will try to answer your Q since the G-man is out of pocket. I am pretty sure he rewired everything at least twice before installing the Balmar. Now he uses big cables hooked directly from the alt to the battery bank and ties his start battery to the bank. I know that he did what the Balmar engineers recommended and that was different that what he was doing before.

[mfloski]

Interesting, I might call him before I do my project...

[lukeduke95]

Mflowski,

I picked up grants older one, and yes he did replace the stock wiring wih 4ga for that alternator, and has since upgraded to 0ga (I think) for the Balmar unit.

Rick-
Make sure that you get a shaft that is threaded regular on one side, and left hand on the other. That was the hardest part trying to explain in hardware stores what I needed. My brother is a machinist, maybe he can machine up some shafts. I would be much happier if mine was an additional inch longer, but its holding for now with not much thread still inside the shaft.

[jhiestand]

Update -- pulled the alternator and had it bench tested. It only could churn out a max of 10.2 volts under load. Not good. Anyway, I'm going to check into either getting it rebuilt, or I'll have to pony up for a new one. This one came from my local dealer as a direct upgrade to the 50amp stock that came with my GT40 and was a little pricey. Anyone have a better alternative for a 100amp alternator that will work with my motor?

I obviously also need to figure out what the heck went wrong with my electrical setup and make some changes.

[Rick]

I have always liked rebuilt if you have it done by a local electric shop. That way you have a local place to go back to.

[jhiestand]

I ended up ordering a replacement alternator and replaced it this weekend. Trial run seemed fine and charging was 13.5+ virtually whole time. I decided not to experiment and didn't run everything at once.

I'm suspect my C100 combiner might not quite be heavy-duty enough for what I was asking it to do and the alternator paid the price. At least for the time being I'll keep from running too much at once, but will eventually either replace the combiner or redistribute my electrical stuff.

[jwhposon]

Rick - Parts list

Do you have a parts list for that bracket - it looks great.

[Grant_West]

Yes Luke thas a sweet alternator adjustment strut. Where can I get one?

I have found that if you have the 2 belts you dont need to have them quite as tight as with one belt.

I agree with mike ski. If you can turn the alternator pully and it spins the belt and not turns the motor then its to loose.

Note: if you are on a compression stroke then No belt is gonna grab but if you can get past the compression stroke and then try and spin it it should have enough grabbing power to spin the motor a inch or 2. Hope that makes sence

[Grant_West]

Didnt see that you were asking a nother question Joe:

I ran the alternator output directley from the alternator to the battery bank. I ran a positive and neg 0-awg wire directley from the alternator directley to the battery bank. Just dissconnect the stock charge wire that runs from the alternator to the 50 amp circut breaker

[lukeduke95]

Alrighty folks, here is a parts list from Mcmastercarrs website.
(You only need to order the threaded shaft from them, I got the heim joints and the jam nuts in both rt and lft thread from my local Orchard for about $12 compared to the $14 each listed below)


Part Number Description Unit Price

4483T401
Ultra-Strength Ball Joint Rod End 3/8"-24 Rh Male Shank, 9544 Pound Load Capacity
$14.38 Each

4483T402
Ultra-Strength Ball Joint Rod End 3/8"-24 Lh Male Shank, 9544 Pound Load Capacity
$14.38 Each

8419K63
Easy-Adjust Threaded Connecting Rod 6" Overall Length, 3/8"-24 Threaded Female Ends
$13.46 Each

Merchandise Total $42.22


Just remember, one side need to be left hand thread and the other needs to be right hand thread in order for it to adjust.

here are some additional pics-
http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1149997475

[Grant_West]

Ok Thank's Luke i just orderd one Thanks for posting all the part #s
I just copyed and pasted on the MCMaster website. Easy Peezey lemon Squeezey :grin:

[lukeduke95]

I just hope with your new alternator, it is long enough. Not sure where your sits in relation to the original bracket.
May need a shorter belt.

Problem with the adjusting rod, they are only threaded for about the first inch and then the rest is hollow. They also come in either 4", 6" or 12". I think 7" would have been perfect for my boat, but they dont have it so I just adjusted it out a bit. Not sure if the heim joints I got from Orchard were longer in the threaded section than the mcmaster ones.

[bobchris]

seems pretty lame you have to get an adjustable brace because you can't adjust the belt tension correctly.

[lukeduke95]

seems pretty lame you have to get an adjustable brace because you canUmmm, do you know how much drag is applied by the alternator under full load? All this does it make it 1000 times easier to adjust it. No need for a long breaker bar to help put tension, simply adjust the middle bar and both sides extend out exerting force. It can all be done with two wrenches and no strength.

I hope you were joking.