I have a 2009 SANTE 230 and the other day we were out on the water and it just died. Tried to start it back up but the engine just cranked and wouldn't fire. I know that it isn't getting a spark but I don't know why. This is the first thing that has gone wrong with the boat and I haven't really had to fix anything on it yet. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, how did you go about fixing it? I've been told that it's most likely the ignition module but wanted to get other ideas. The boat only has 258 hours on it as well.
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I have the same situation going on with a 2014 SAN 230. I was in the water this past weekend when the engine just turned off. No error message. I confirmed I had fuel pump and fuel pressure at 55-60 PSI, I swapped and checked every fuse and relay in the block. Everything is getting voltage... but no spark. I even jumped and replaced the lanyard killswitch. I got it to the dealer yesterday and am hoping it’s just the ignition module. Sometimes it can be some other sensor issue or worse the ECM. I’m thinking they are going to throw on the scan tool and start trouble shooting within the next couple of days.
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Thanks for the reply! Sounds like a the exact same issue. All of the gauges checked out and I also tried swapping relays and fuses but no luck. I unhooked the battery to try and clear the fault code but it's still there so there is an actual problem. I have a guy coming to look at it tonight hopefully but he has an OBD2 scanner and I've heard that they do and don't work on PCM motors so we'll see. He seems to think its the ignition module but he hasn't actually looked at it yet. If we do find anything tonight I'll be sure to let you know!
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So after a long night of working on the boat, I ohmed out the coil, which came back with .2 on the primary. From anything I've read this is within the normal range of .2-4. Tried the screwdriver in the distributor cap trick, and saw that there was a tiny spark at the coil plug. So I took the distributor cap off and found that all of the posts had quite a bit of corrosion on them. Also the rotary bug looked to be a little worn. Took the ignition module to O'reilly's and had it tested. I was told that it was toast. So I bought a new module, distributor cap, and rotary bug thinking that my problem had been solved. Installed all new parts only to find that it did the same thing, which is not start. Did the screwdriver trick again and it is definitely getting a spark now from the coil wire. The first question is could the coil still be considered "weak" if it ohms out at .2 which is at the bottom of the range? The second question is could there be a fault code that didn't clear from all this preventing it from starting? I did try unhooking the batteries to try and clear any faults that may be on there.
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I will keep you updated what they find, should have an answer in a day or so. I did not dig into the distributor before I hauled it to the dealer. This being a GM 5.7 based engine, I even searched the auto forums. Ignition module, coil, distributor,crank position sensor,and ECM were all discussed. I even heard the distibutor shaft can break. With it being the week of the 4th, my wife said the sooner I stop working on it and get it to the dealer the better...
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You may even want to wiggle the kill switch a bit if you are not able to test it...I noticed that lately, my kill switch is touchy and 1/8" turn can be difference between it working/not working. So its something to check for sure. I bought a new one, just need to make time to replace it on mine.
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On my boat, The lanyard switch kills everything. No crank, fuel, and Ignition. It’s a 2014 SAN with PCM 343. I jumped, then replaced the switch just rule it out. I have heard from many this could be an issue so it’s worth a look... This engine need 55lbs fuel pressure before it will fire. Test the fuel rail to see. One of the only times fuel may contribute to no spark. I’m still waiting for the dealer to sneak a peek at mine to give you another answer as we are in the same boat... so to speak!
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Yea, it depends how the kill switch is wired in. Typically they're wired to kill the run signal off of the ignition switch, whereas the crank signal can still power the starter, but there won't be any fuel pumping. But if yours kills everything, then it's not the problem, and fuel pressure would be the next thing to check
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