Winterize help

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  • Triple J
    • Jun 2018
    • 21

    • Buffalo ny

    • 2001 anniversary edition ski nautique closed. Bow

    Winterize help

    I have a nautique 2001 anniversary edition ski. I was winteriziing it and pulled the water intake hose and sucked up about 2-3 gallons of pink rv fluid. I see it in the water filter and thought I was done with making sure it would be protected from the cold. Then tonight a friend kid about how warm the engine was and I said it was only run for a minute or so. He then said the thermostat didn't likely open so I still have water in the engine. Is he right...I think he is... how do. I resolve this.help

    jim
  • Nautiquehunter
    1,000 Post Club Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 2080

    • Flowery Branch GA Lake Lanier

    • 2008 210 SANTE 67 Correct Craft Mustang

    #2
    Did you drain the water before sucking up the antifreeze?

    Comment

    • 03SANTE
      • Sep 2018
      • 166

      • PA

      • 2003 SANTE

      #3
      I've never believed in flushing because of the thermostat factor . I drain then fill with antifreeze through the hoses. My first year winterizing a boat I verify the pink stuff has made it by loosening the drain plugs for a second to make sure it got to the right places. When in doubt consult the manual.

      Comment

      • CHassmann
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Jul 2004
        • 512

        • Holiday Lakes, OH

        • Current: 2002 Ski Nautique Closed Bow Previous: 1990 Ski Nautique, 1987 Ski Nautique 2001

        #4
        Originally posted by 03SANTE View Post
        I've never believed in flushing because of the thermostat factor . I drain then fill with antifreeze through the hoses. My first year winterizing a boat I verify the pink stuff has made it by loosening the drain plugs for a second to make sure it got to the right places. When in doubt consult the manual.
        Definitely the best way if you want to be certain that are no thermostat issues. Or, you could remove the thermostat.


        Ski on dude!

        Comment

        • Triple J
          • Jun 2018
          • 21

          • Buffalo ny

          • 2001 anniversary edition ski nautique closed. Bow

          #5
          Good advice. First time doing it myself so made a few mistakes. So I didn't drain the water first which is what I planned to do but got distracted. Sucked up 2 +gal antifreeze but the realized thermostat didn't open so that why I posted here. After your advice I went back and checked. Exhaust manifolds had pink. Petcocks on side bottom of block let out....water. Thank all if you for responding. So I went and opened all drains (5) and then took off thermostat and poured in about 3 gal of rv anti freeze. When I saw it come out of both petcocks (pink fluid) I felt better so closed all drains. Next time will. Run engine till thermostat opens THEN will suck up pink fluid. Also that will make the oil drain quicker for which I learned goes very slow when cold. (Duh). Thanks guys. Sad to put it away but I'm winterizing it myself so I can upgrade a bunch of stuff over the winter...new speakers, new perfect pass etc....

          Comment

          • Nautiquehunter
            1,000 Post Club Member
            • Jun 2008
            • 2080

            • Flowery Branch GA Lake Lanier

            • 2008 210 SANTE 67 Correct Craft Mustang

            #6
            1- pull 5 drain plugs drain all water from engine .
            2- pull hoses off raw water pump drain trans cooler and raw water pump.
            3- reinstall all drain plugs
            4- Remove upper raw water pump hose on pump side bend it up install funnel add antifreeze untill it comes out the exhaust.

            No need to run the engine it should take no more than 15-20 minutes. If I were in NY I would use a 50/50 mix of automotive green antifreeze that should protect you to -30F
            Make sure you run the engine and collect it in the spring . Don't just run it in the lake.

            Comment

            • 03SANTE
              • Sep 2018
              • 166

              • PA

              • 2003 SANTE

              #7
              Originally posted by Nautiquehunter View Post
              If I were in NY I would use a 50/50 mix of automotive green antifreeze that should protect you to -30F
              Make sure you run the engine and collect it in the spring . Don't just run it in the lake.
              Just curious, why the green toxic stuff? Pink nontoxic says it's good to -50 and I never mix it. Also isn't it tough to recapture it in the spring without needing to catch a bunch of extra water too? Just wondering, not criticizing. I'm in PA so it can get pretty cold too.

              Comment

              • Tom_H
                • Jan 2014
                • 244

                • Minnesota


                #8
                Originally posted by Triple J View Post
                Good advice. First time doing it myself so made a few mistakes. So I didn't drain the water first which is what I planned to do but got distracted. Sucked up 2 +gal antifreeze but the realized thermostat didn't open so that why I posted here. After your advice I went back and checked. Exhaust manifolds had pink. Petcocks on side bottom of block let out....water. Thank all if you for responding. So I went and opened all drains (5) and then took off thermostat and poured in about 3 gal of rv anti freeze. When I saw it come out of both petcocks (pink fluid) I felt better so closed all drains. Next time will. Run engine till thermostat opens THEN will suck up pink fluid. Also that will make the oil drain quicker for which I learned goes very slow when cold. (Duh). Thanks guys. Sad to put it away but I'm winterizing it myself so I can upgrade a bunch of stuff over the winter...new speakers, new perfect pass etc....
                Please don't do your 'next time' method next time - it's a recipe for having a mixture of water/anti-freeze regardless of thermostat position.

                Regardless of how you introduce the anti-freeze, if you really want to be protected, you need to drain first. Then, you can either pour it in (through thermostat opening or one of the hoses, or suck it up. When you drain first, and then suck up, the thermostat position doesn't matter as it will fill the block through the circulation pump. If you want a warm engine for the oil change, then do that before you drain. My method is as follows:

                1. Warm engine and change oil (or I'll just let oil drain overnight and skip the warm up portion - if you've previously pushed stabilized gas through the engine).
                2. Drain everything (block, exhaust, J-tube, transmission cooler, water strainer, (and v-drive depending on boat)). Probe the drain holes to make sure there isn't anything ostructing the drains.
                3. Add anti-freeze through thermostat housing. I prefer pouring in versus sucking up, as I can generally do it just as fast as sucking up and I can do this in the garage if it's crappy outside.

                If you choose not to use anti-freeze, then stop after number 2. If you run impellers for more than a year, then it's a good idea to pull that from the pump as well, and store in a bag. I put a new one in every spring, so don't bother.

                Comment

                • 03SANTE
                  • Sep 2018
                  • 166

                  • PA

                  • 2003 SANTE

                  #9
                  Totally agree: Run engine, do oil change, run again to fog engine(if not doing individual cylinders) and give oil level a final check after circulating. Then drain water and fill with antifreeze if desired. I've done internet searches to exhaustion and it seems like the consensus is that the important part is getting the water out. The antifreeze dilutes the possible little pockets of water you missed for us obsessive types and is totally optional. Bottom line if you drain the water your engine will be fine in the spring.

                  Comment

                  • Nautiquehunter
                    1,000 Post Club Member
                    • Jun 2008
                    • 2080

                    • Flowery Branch GA Lake Lanier

                    • 2008 210 SANTE 67 Correct Craft Mustang

                    #10
                    The green antifreeze is made for the engine it has rust inhibitors and lubracants the RV may not have. I am old school and have been winterizing my boats for 30 years. When I lived in the north I fogged the engine through the carb. Here in the south the boat is only put up for about two months so I don't fog anymore.

                    Comment

                    • Recker
                      • Oct 2016
                      • 38

                      • Bluffton, IN

                      • 2008 Air Nautique 206

                      #11
                      Anyone know why the antifreeze wouldn’t get sucked up after draining all water first? Seems like there is no vacuum.

                      Comment

                      • Triple J
                        • Jun 2018
                        • 21

                        • Buffalo ny

                        • 2001 anniversary edition ski nautique closed. Bow

                        #12
                        Thanks everyone. That's why I. Love this site

                        Comment

                        • Tom_H
                          • Jan 2014
                          • 244

                          • Minnesota


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Recker View Post
                          Anyone know why the antifreeze wouldn’t get sucked up after draining all water first? Seems like there is no vacuum.
                          Either a leak in your water intake somewhere, obstruction, or your impeller is failing/failed. And if you ran too long with it dry, you possibly killed the impeller anyway. You didn't loosen any belts prior to trying to suck up the anti-freeze, did you?

                          Comment

                          • 03SANTE
                            • Sep 2018
                            • 166

                            • PA

                            • 2003 SANTE

                            #14
                            How were you trying to suck it up? Looking at an earlier post it looks like it worked the first time, correct? Since it was empty, you may need to tap into the water line closer to the raw water pump. I pull the hose from the strainer going to the pump and tap in a section of hose I got at Lowes with a plastic barb. I usually set my bucket up on a step ladder so it doesn't have to fight gravity too much. You can tell instantly if the pump is pulling and shut it off quickly if you are not seeing flow. Maybe give that a try.

                            Comment

                            • Recker
                              • Oct 2016
                              • 38

                              • Bluffton, IN

                              • 2008 Air Nautique 206

                              #15
                              I did not loosen any belts prior to sucking up and all the plugs are in securely. It worked last year....I just can't remember if the block was warm when I did it last year. I tapped in right at the strainer with a 6 ft hose that is submerged in a 5 gallon bucket. Last year the bucket was outside of the boat and sucked up just fine. This year I moved it inside of the boat and still no suck. This is only my second time winterizing this boat and I am really wondering if the block not being warm this year is the problem. Thank You!

                              Comment

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