Piggyback ballast install for Nautique 220

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Payton1
    • Aug 2018
    • 42

    • Raleigh, NC

    • 2008 Nautique 220 TE. Piggyback ballast, Acme 1235, Fresh Air Exhaust, Seadek, Hot shower!

    Piggyback ballast install for Nautique 220

    Hey folks,
    Newbie to the forum here. I searched all over and could not find much info about the install details of piggyback ballast on a Nautique 220. I did mine this weekend, and figured I would post some photos to help anyone else out. The install was pretty easy, once I figured a few things out, but always nice to see a few photos.

    I ordered the kits from Wakemakers - the 600lb front arrow bag, and the 740lb rear locker bags, and the kits included the hoses and fittings. I am first going to say that there is no way they will fill to that capacity on the 220. Maybe on a 230 (for which I notice Wakemakers sells the exact same kit). I bet the front bag only fills to half to its rating, and maybe the back bags 3/4. Anyhow, here it goes.

    I started the front bag first, popping the ski locker hatch. I vacuumed it out to make sure there wasn't any gravel or anything that would wear into the bag first. Obviously, screw in the plugs to the several ports on the front of the arrow bag that you aren't going to use. Keep just the top port on the 'stick' part of the arrow unplugged for the vent hose, and the side port on the 'stick' part of the arrow unplugged for the fill hose. Wakemakers instruction says fill through the 'bottom' port but there is no port on the underneath of the bag. I called them to confirm, the actually mean the 'side' port on the 'stick' part of the arrow facing the stern of the boat.

    I folded the 'arrow' tabs of the bag and slid it into the locker, and then unfolded them once in place.

    Now the fun part - get your skinny friend to worm his/her way up in front of the driver's seat with a screwdriver, and remove the front vent hose from the through hull fitting. Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6096.jpg Views:	1 Size:	46.7 KB ID:	570515
    On my boat, it was a black hose with a green stripe. There is another through hull right next to it, that is the front bilge and it is solid black. You can see which is which as both hoses go to the vent and bilge pump which are clearly visible in the ski locker. The above photo, which is sideways, shows the hoses up under the dash. Then, you want to pull that hose back out into the ski locker. On my boat, that required taking some wire cutters and clipping 2-3 zip ties that hold the vent hose and bilge hose together as they run under the dash into the ski locker. Once those were clipped, I could wiggle and eventually pull the hose through so that that the end formerly connected to through hull was now in the ski locker. Make sure the hose clamp is still on the hose, and using a heat gun, heat up the end of the hose till it is soft (but not on fire) and then stuff the female quick-disconnect fitting onto the hose as far as it will go. The heat gun is needed because the factory hose is a bit smaller than the Wakemakers fitting, and it is almost impossible otherwise.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6097.jpg Views:	1 Size:	47.5 KB ID:	570516
    The male fitting then screws into the side (bottom) of the arrow bag, and snaps into the connector you just installed which connects to the hard tank, enabling the overflow from your hard tank to fill/drain the arrow sack from the lowest port.
    Then, take the new hose from the kit, which will use the quick-disconnect fitting to mate to the top of the bag, and route the free end of this hose from the ski locker back up under the dash, and up to the through hull fitting that is now free. Put the hose clamp on the hose first, and slide it on the through hull port. As a bonus, if you use the Wakemakers supplied tubing, it is about the same as the through hull fitting and it slides on with just some spit instead of the heat gun hassle. I tightened the hose clamp up good with a socket wrench since the screwdriver never seems to allow tightening of these clamps well.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6098.jpg Views:	1 Size:	41.5 KB ID:	570517
    Clip together the quick disconnects as instructed, and that is it. The above photo shows the completed arrow bag project. Green and black hose on your far right leaves hard tank vent, and connects to bottom of arrow bag. Black hose on top of arrow bag (with blue ring) runs back up under dash to through-hull vent. You will see when you do this that the space in the ski locker on a 220 and smaller boat is no way going to let that full arrow bag fill to max capacity, but it will at least use the most of what space there is.

    For the rear bags, it was a little more interesting. First of all, removing the divider panels made it easier to get in there, and that is a good time to do some reinforcement. I installed the 'panel savers' although now that I know what they were, a piece of plywood or other stiff material could have done the trick as well. This is what they look like (image is rotated), below.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6110.jpg Views:	1 Size:	26.6 KB ID:	570520
    I just learned that this website times out, so I am going to post the rest of the rear install in a second post in a moment.



    Last edited by Payton1; 10-15-2018, 09:48 PM.
  • Payton1
    • Aug 2018
    • 42

    • Raleigh, NC

    • 2008 Nautique 220 TE. Piggyback ballast, Acme 1235, Fresh Air Exhaust, Seadek, Hot shower!

    #2
    Part II, the rear locker bags. I thought about removing the hard tanks and just replacing them with bags, but I do like the water gauges, so for now I left the hard tanks in and set the piggyback bags on top. Maybe later I will pull the hard tanks.

    The first step is to remove the hose from the overflow vent from the hard tank. Obviously remove the carpet square that covers the tank and the hose is clearly visible connecting to the rear of the tank., Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6103.jpg Views:	1 Size:	32.1 KB ID:	570551
    Disconnect the wire for the water level gauge first to make it easier, and then remove the hose clamp, and pull the hose off.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6105.jpg Views:	1 Size:	21.6 KB ID:	570552
    The water level gauge has an easy quick connect that you squeeze to take it apart. Once the hose is off, you can re-connect it. You are not going to use this hose again, so you can either leave it there (I did) or remove it which would require cutting some zip ties.

    The next thing that needs to be done is to remove the rear tank vent hose from the side through hull fitting. The fitting is in an inconvenient place, to the front of the locker but just far back enough it is hard to get to from lifting the seat.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6104.jpg Views:	1 Size:	52.9 KB ID:	570549
    Here's what it looks like removed. Note the photo is rotated 90 degrees, the through hull barb pointed up in my boat! And, I found that makes things more difficult when connecting the new Wakemakers tubing. So, I ended up loosening the nut that holds it in, and rotating it to point down instead of up.

    Next take the hose assembly that came with the Wakemakers kit and install it. The hose ends are marked to the factory tank, and to the through hull vent so it is pretty easy. Note that the kit also includes some tees and one-way valves so that you don't collapse your hard tanks. It is not a simple 2 hose system like the front arrow bag. I'm attaching the install diagram instructions that came with the kit here also.

    WM-Nautique-Piggyback-Instructions-42501 (updated).pdf

    Those next steps include attaching the new vent hose to the through hull fitting. I ran mine up along the hold hose and zip-tied it in place. Here's the photo of it attached back to the through hull. The hose barb is actually pointing down, I rotated this as I mentioned earlier. I'm not sure you need to but it seemed a lot easier to install the new hose that way.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6107.jpg Views:	1 Size:	55.0 KB ID:	570556
    Then, connect the hose as instructed to the overflow of the factory tank, and the quick disconnects for the fill to the bag bottom rear, and for the vent to the bag top. Obviously, use the plugs on the unused ports.

    Mine looked like this when finished:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image_44256.jpg Views:	1 Size:	26.8 KB ID:	570554

    For curiosity, I blew the bag up with a tube inflator to see what it would look like and it was clear that the 740 lb bag is way bigger than the locker space on my boat. The below photo is partially inflated. With it full, it pushes way out of the locker. The guys at Wakemakers reminded me that it would only fill to the vent level and so would not actually push out of the locker when used with water instead of air.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_6109.jpg Views:	1 Size:	31.2 KB ID:	570555
    Courtesy of Hurricane Florence and then Michael making a mess of things, I have not had a chance to try it out yet, but I will post some wake pics. Already, I am thinking I will go back in there and trim the hoses. They are a bit longer than they need to be for my boat, and I ended up coiling them once before connecting.

    I called Wakemakers a few times during my installation, and I have to say I was able to speak to someone immediately and they were really helpful. The pre-assembled hose assemblies make the job a lot easier. It probably took me 2 hours to do the whole job, mainly just do to the difficulty of accessing some of the through hull fittings, but in general was very easy.

    My main concern with the ballast arrangement is that the port side bag will completely obscure the emergency battery cutoff switch on my boat when full. I don't like that at all. That might be a reason to pull the hard tank and let the bag sit deeper in the boat, if that will keep the battery switch accessible. Honestly, due to the space in that locker, I think having the 740bag in there without the tank it would probably fill to close to 740, but the bag with the tank it may only fill to 500 just due to space, so I suspect weight wise it would be pretty similar.

    I'd love to hear feedback from others that have done this about other details that might be helpful.
    Last edited by Payton1; 10-16-2018, 07:58 AM.

    Comment

    • Payton1
      • Aug 2018
      • 42

      • Raleigh, NC

      • 2008 Nautique 220 TE. Piggyback ballast, Acme 1235, Fresh Air Exhaust, Seadek, Hot shower!

      #3
      Update: divider panel reinforcement. The 'panel savers' divider panel reinforcement were borderline, so I added two additional pieces to reinforce the system. The 'panel savers' are black aluminum u-channel that are mounted on the engine side of the divider panel, in my boat. I bought two new aluminum u-channel bars, 48" long by 1" wide (I could only find aluminum color, not black). I drilled three holes in them to align with the panel savers and bolted through them all. So, now there are two 48" long aluminum channels going horizontally on the locker side that are bolted through to the 'panel savers' channels on the engine side. When you tighten them up, it is pretty strong and holds the panels solid.

      Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_9075.jpg Views:	0 Size:	30.6 KB ID:	581754
      Photo above shows the locker side, with new aluminum u-channel horizontally. The bolts go through into the 'panel savers' u channels on the other side. They use the top set of bolts and a new set of holes I drilled in a middle of the panel. There is a third set of bolts in the panel savers further down that aren't connected to the new aluminum.

      I filed the sharp edges of the aluminum on the ends and wrapped it in duct tape so the ends don't wear on the bags.
      Photo below shows the engine side, with the 'panel savers' u channels.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by Payton1; 04-29-2019, 11:51 AM.

      Comment

      • srock
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Oct 2008
        • 1063

        • Florida

        • 2009 Super Air 230 2005 Whaler Dauntless

        #4
        Thanks for the write up. It was needed.

        Comment

        • Payton1
          • Aug 2018
          • 42

          • Raleigh, NC

          • 2008 Nautique 220 TE. Piggyback ballast, Acme 1235, Fresh Air Exhaust, Seadek, Hot shower!

          #5
          Because you asked...
          Full stock tanks, ~ 600 in each locker, ~ 400 in arrow ski bag. With mission delta Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_9138.jpg
Views:	1085
Size:	117.2 KB
ID:	582014

          Comment

          • Payton1
            • Aug 2018
            • 42

            • Raleigh, NC

            • 2008 Nautique 220 TE. Piggyback ballast, Acme 1235, Fresh Air Exhaust, Seadek, Hot shower!

            #6
            Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7418.JPG
Views:	1110
Size:	34.9 KB
ID:	595404Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_7391.jpg
Views:	1126
Size:	49.7 KB
ID:	595403

            Comment

            • bradscheide
              • Feb 2015
              • 6

              • Washington


              #7
              Thanks for the walk through

              Comment

              • Kevin_B
                • Jan 2008
                • 313

                • Greensboro, NC

                • 2008 SANTE 220 1990 Sport Nautique

                #8
                This is incredibly helpful. Thanks


                Sent from my iPhone using PLT Nautique
                1990 Sport Nautique

                Comment

                • Shonchez
                  • Aug 2020
                  • 43

                  • Windermere, FL

                  • 2006 Super Air Nautique 220 TE

                  #9
                  Thanks for the write up, I’m doing mine right now. Have the heat gun, but it’s very difficult to unscrew the hose clamps at the tanks as they are pointed in the downward direction and aren’t budging. Someone at Nautique 15 yrs ago was not thinking about accessibility when they built mine. About ready to cut the hose off at this point.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X