New to me 2003 Sante. I want to install a T into the water line and have been all through the forum for ideas. I settled on this idea. Install a simple T with no shutoff valves (that i will just insert a plug into when not in use) that can hook up to the garden hose. I plan to place it in the downward hose between the strainer output and before the transmission cooler without any shutoff valves to eliminate the risk of too much pressure. My thought is that with the hose turned on the excess water will flow backwards through the strainer and out the raw water intake. Once the engine is turned on the suction should pull water through the cooling system and any excess can continue to back out the other direction. Anyone want to chime in? I also realize the flush pro is a good solution but have read some reviews that they can fail during boat use and not willing to risk it. Thanks.
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That is basically what I have done, except I only use it for winterization, so it is only on there temporarily. Since you are in PA, I assume that is what you are looking for, too. I used a short piece of clear 1 1/4" hose that attaches to the barb on the strainer. On the other end is a 1 1/4" barb x 1" FPT x 1 1/4" barb that goes to the hose removed from the strainer. There is a 3/4" FPT garden hose adapter in the 1" FPT part of the tee. Simply slide it together - no need to tighten the hose clamps when used temporarily. Lets the excess go back out through the strainer until you start the engine. Just be sure that your garden hose supplies ENOUGH water for the engine. That's why I use the clear hose - I can see it gurgling back up into it occasionally. Works great!
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Thanks! It sounds like it should work then. I may put mine in permanently since I feel like I'm going to snap a fitting when pulling the hose off of the strainer. I will use a threaded plug in the tee when not in use and thread in the garden hose adapter when I need it. If I put it 6 inches or so from the strainer I'm hoping that will be my clear spot to see the gurgling back up. Appreciate the insight.
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Originally posted by SatherG230 View PostThat is basically what I have done, except I only use it for winterization, so it is only on there temporarily. Since you are in PA, I assume that is what you are looking for, too. I used a short piece of clear 1 1/4" hose that attaches to the barb on the strainer. On the other end is a 1 1/4" barb x 1" FPT x 1 1/4" barb that goes to the hose removed from the strainer. There is a 3/4" FPT garden hose adapter in the 1" FPT part of the tee. Simply slide it together - no need to tighten the hose clamps when used temporarily. Lets the excess go back out through the strainer until you start the engine. Just be sure that your garden hose supplies ENOUGH water for the engine. That's why I use the clear hose - I can see it gurgling back up into it occasionally. Works great!
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Good to hear it. You were already most of the way there with your idea. I have been thinking about using it as a permanent solution, but a.) dont want to cut the OEM tubing on the boat and b.) wonder how clear the clear tubing would stay over time. That tubing is tough to get on there when winterizing it because it is cold and stiff, but a paint gun or hair dryer helps. Will need to get the boat out soon!
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Picture?2004 206 Air Nautique Limited - Black with Vapor Blue (family style)
1997 Masters Edition Nautique - Zephyr Green - gone (amazing ski wake)
1982 Mastercraft Powerslot - gone (a primitive but wonderful beast)
Bellevue WA
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Here's the pic. Clear end to strainer outlet, hose removed from strainer (to water pump) hooked up to other barb. Turn hose on and all water flows backward out through the thru-hull the second the engine starts it pulls it all into the cooling system. Took Sather's advice and just kept it temporary. Less places for a leak. Thanks for all the great tips.Last edited by 03SANTE; 05-15-2019, 07:11 PM.
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