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Hey Folks - I took the boat out for the first time this year after de-winterizing. Boat ran like a champ for 15 minutes. We stopped for about 20 minutes and then the boat would not start. The fuel bump was not running (I usually hear it kick in for a few seconds just before it starts). I had tried reseating the safety lanyard, reconnecting the battery connections, and resetting the ignition button on the dash. After about an hour it did start – not from anything that I did. After it was running again I did notice that the tach jumps up and down without the engine changing RPM. I noticed in another post that the tachs have a tendency to switch between 6 and 8 cylinder modes – I can check that. The question is: are these problems related to some kind of electrical problem? Any ideas how to troubleshoot the fuel pump problem now that it seems to be intermittent?
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What year/model of boat? I would start with checking the Grounds on the boat/engine. I have a 95 Sport that had a tach that would jump around but it either fixed itself or I fixed a bad ground... I put in a new stereo system and tightened up all the grounds behind the dash and it was fixed. -
Thanks BIZ - The boat is a 1996 Ski Nautique. I will check the ground connections.Comment
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Might be unrelated problems. I think your tach just might be on the way out. Check the fuel pump relay first and foremost. Easy and cheap to change.Comment
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I concur with both of the above. Check grounds and fuel pump relay. I would just change it they are relatively cheap and if it does not fix it you have a spare.Did the boat crank but not fire or just not do anything. If it did nothing i would suspect the ground at the engine or one of the solenoids/relay either the starter or fuel pump.Nautiqueless in San DiegoComment
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We purchased our 97 with GT40, it had 123 hours on it. We could take it out, run two passes up and down the lake, leave it sit for 10 minutes and like clockwork it would quit on us the next time out (chugging, running very rough and then quit). Very frustrating, go out ski and get warmed up, line up for a second set and the boat would quit, every time.
I talked with CC, PCM and the dealer and they suggested that I attached a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail. When we would start having the problem I noticed the pressure would be down below 20psi. I replaced the high volume/low pressure pump, (the one on the lower front of the engine, not the Low Vol/High Press inside the canister) replaced it with the same spec. pump from NAPA and solved the problem. $125.00 and done. It's been 3.5 years and nearly 200hrs without a hitch.
Hope that helps.Comment
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Bruce_M:
Tell me where you bought those parts. NAPA, like car parts place. I tried to buy an electronic part for my GT 40 and they told be to go to the marine store. I am interseted in your fix. I have a 95 and would like to get the right parts, cheap too, if possible.
Go to my "GT-40 engine cut-out problem" post from July 19 and jump in if you can!Comment
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They have the pump at Skidim.com. May as well support a ski-related store when you can.Comment
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M3 Fan: Thanks for the tip. I called Skidim and they have them. The also suggested to isolate the fuel source with an auxillary fuel tank to get the filter, line and tank out of the equation. If the boat still cuts out (mine is) check the fuel pressure, should be 40 psi.Comment
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Id' say go with the fuel pressure guage on the fuel rail. (I have actually left mine installed). I think a decent fuel press. gauge ran about 30 bucks.Comment
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Just back from the lake...
Boat plain old would not start. I noticed when I turned the key, the fuel pumps weren't pressurizing with that few seconds of ticking. (I learned that one from another thread). I pulled the relays, put them back, in...Voila! 22 passes on the course without a hiccup. I will replace those relays tomorrow.
Next problem: Any remedies for a sore back from too much throw-down!Comment
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Relays might be fine, but the electrical connection to same is the problem. I suggest you apply silicon dielectric grease to the terminals.Comment
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