Common maintenance items

[SilentSeven]

No need to purchase new injectors. Take them to a local rebuilder or send them out to a service like https://witchhunter.com/. Most injectors need a cleaning, new seal and pintel cap and a flow test. If you have a bad one, just replace that one. If you do decide to just replace, I would pull one and take it to your local NAPA or similar. $100 says they can cross it to a standard Ford part and you can avoid the Marine / PCM markup.

Avoid no-name ebay or Amazon stuff....likely to get some chinesium crap stuff.

My 2 cents...

[SilentSeven]

...oh, other stuff to check, especially with a new boat

- All hoses
- I would do the belts just to be safe. Easy, cheap.
- Battery connections for corrosion, top off battery water if that sort of battery
- Engine ground strap
- Change tranny fluid
- Check fire extinguishers
- Add a 'rope's around my prop kit' / dive mask and knife with strap. Never had to use mine but two of my buddies have. Beer price for use on lake is very very high.
- Add a spare fuse kit

...and then there's that darn trailer. Don't be that guy on the side of the road.

- rebuild wheel hubs. New inner and outer seals + fresh grease. Set bearing play.
- carefully inspect / replace shoes or pads. I had shoe rivets fail so the brake material came off and wedged my wheel to a hard lock. .
- fluid flush...rusty? uh oh...time for new wheel or master cylinders. Or maybe you have electric brakes?
- stop test, adjust pads or shoes, make sure they actually engage the hub or the disk.
- light check, grounds in particular are troublesome.
- bunk check, make sure no dry rot or missing bolts
- grease the nose wheel

Go though all that and you'd know what you have.

Have fun!

[beamons]

No need to purchase new injectors. Take them to a local rebuilder or send them out to a service like https://witchhunter.com/. Most injectors need a cleaning, new seal and pintel cap and a flow test. If you have a bad one, just replace that one. If you do decide to just replace, I would pull one and take it to your local NAPA or similar. $100 says they can cross it to a standard Ford part and you can avoid the Marine / PCM markup.

Avoid no-name ebay or Amazon stuff....likely to get some chinesium crap stuff.

My 2 cents...

We actually tried to rebuild ours but they said the cost was greater than the 200 I spent on genuine Ford Racing ones from Amazon. But I guess they could still be chinesium. They worked for us.

[Infinity]

Amazon has some great stuff and I have bought a lot from that site, so not knocking them at all. However on engine stuff for my boat I hesitate, since on 2 occasions now when I did some digging I found that what was being sold on Amazon was a knockoff. The most recent where a set of spark plugs for my ZR409. I did some research after reading some suspect reviews on how to determine if those plugs were OEM or not, once I knew what to look for, it was clear they were not genuine as the ad on amazon stated.

I am sure that is not always the case....and there are probably times where it may not even matter. Figured it was worth sharing my experience tho

[Neptune442]

Thanks for all the great responses! So I finally got around to changing the impeller. Attached is a photo of the old one... yikes! I'm learning on the fly here...from what I'm reading - when an impeller is in that bad of shape, some people seem to suggest basically tearing everything apart to try and find the missing pieces. Others seem to say that if the engine isn't overheating, then don't worry about it. Being that its March in MN, I really won't be able to start the engine and check for overheating for another 1-2 months. I checked a couple of the easier spots that were suggested - the transmission oil cooler and the thermostat. And a couple hoses in between. Didn't find anything. I have no idea when the last impeller change was. Is it possible these rubber pieces might not be an issue? I just don't want it driving me crazy for the next 2 months. Also, when checking the thermostat for pieces - it looked te be original. The gasket was basically non-existent at this point. It looks like a thermostat is only a $30 part - should I just swap it out as long as I'm replacing a bunch of other stuff? And is a thermostat swap as simple as taking out the old/installing the new? I don't know the typical lifespan of a thermostat. Again, thanks everyone!

[GMLIII]

Thanks for all the great responses! So I finally got around to changing the impeller. Attached is a photo of the old one... yikes! I'm learning on the fly here...from what I'm reading - when an impeller is in that bad of shape, some people seem to suggest basically tearing everything apart to try and find the missing pieces. Others seem to say that if the engine isn't overheating, then don't worry about it. Being that its March in MN, I really won't be able to start the engine and check for overheating for another 1-2 months. I checked a couple of the easier spots that were suggested - the transmission oil cooler and the thermostat. And a couple hoses in between. Didn't find anything. I have no idea when the last impeller change was. Is it possible these rubber pieces might not be an issue? I just don't want it driving me crazy for the next 2 months. Also, when checking the thermostat for pieces - it looked te be original. The gasket was basically non-existent at this point. It looks like a thermostat is only a $30 part - should I just swap it out as long as I'm replacing a bunch of other stuff? And is a thermostat swap as simple as taking out the old/installing the new? I don't know the typical lifespan of a thermostat. Again, thanks everyone!

Wow that impeller is rough no doubt. I'm assuming you have a GT 40 engine and if so changing the thermostat and gasket is easy.. For piece of mind go on an change the thermostat; a cheap part to replace.