Dash Wiring Diagram for 1998 Ski Nautique

[Seamonsas1]

I am working on making some custom control panels for my 1998 Ski Nautique, and I can't find any. My boat is so ripped apart right now I can't remember how they go back together. Anybody know where I can get one?

Steve

[NautiqueJeff]

I don't have a diagram for this, but that panel looks great! One question -- since you removed the breakers and added switches, how are you protecting the circuits? Without the breakers in place, have you added fuses or something?

[Seamonsas1]

Yes, I am using a fuse box. And this is where my problems are coming in. The issue that I am having is that I don't know how to get power to the fuse box and how many fuse boxes I need. With the ignition button (breaker) on the panel and the ignition switch, how did it work?

I know that the ignition button is a 20A breaker. But I don't know if it has power directly from the battery that went to the ignition button (breaker) then to the ignition, then the ignition switch supplied the power to the accessories. If this is the case I would need to put a 20A in line fuse to the ignition button. Then run power from the ignition switch to the fuse box for the accessories? Attached is a rough sketch of what I am talking about.

The other question is if the bilge pump needs to run even when the key is off? If this is the case then I need to have constant power to the bilge and it will need its own in-line fuse. (not in the diagram)

Any thoughts?

[NautiqueJeff]

If the Ignition breaker is off, nothing has power. No bilge pump, no key switch, nothing. To run the bilge pump without the engine running, the ignition breaker still has to be on. It is kind of funny. With the key switch off and the ignition breaker on, there is no light on the ignition breaker. When the key is turned to the on position, the ignition breaker light comes on. With no key, but the ignition breaker on, the bilge pump works and the bilge pump light stays on when the bilge breaker is on. Not sure how helpful any of that is, but hopefully that gives you some information.

[Seamonsas1]

That is helpful, but utterly confusing. The ignition breaker must send power to the bilge and the ignition switch. The thing that I can't figure out is if all of that power goes through the ignition breaker, how can it only be 20A? The bilge alone is 35A. There just is not enough juice in the ignition breaker to feed the bilge and the starter.

Makes me wish I had taken pictures or mapped it out when I was taking it apart.

Steve

[Rileylaker]

I have some wiring diagrams for this if you still need it. I'm doing the same thing only I'm replacing all the breakers with new ones. Just about did the fuse/switch set up you have started but found cheap replacement breakers online. I'm also changing out the panel lights for blue LED. Starting the rebuild this weekend and will take some pics. Love to see how your dash came together.

[Rick kurtz]

Did you find a wiring diagram?

[Rileylaker]

I just did the dash without the diagram. Do you have one or do you need one? Here are some pics of mine and the diagrams available.

One thing that I would like to share is that replacing the breakers returned some power to my dash. Either the old breakers, or grounds were robbing the dash of power. After this re and re, I have more volts on the meter.

IMG_5118.HEIC

[Seamonsas1]

It has been a while. I still have a bunch of these. I kind of stopped working on them because I finished mine and lack of interest. But if anyone is still interested contact me and I will build some up for you. I will get some pics of mine and post it. They look really good and it completely modernized the feel of the boat. I put in a push button start on mine but it is a bit more complicated and some people can't get it to work every time. So the ones I am selling are set up to just swap out your current ignition.

[deere_765]

Any pictures of your updated dash? Is there some instruction out there on updating the grounds? Recommendations on a new Bluetooth head unit?

I have my dash out to do a few updates and would appreciate any help or suggestions.

[Seamonsas1]

Here are some pics. Everything is dirty because I had not cleaned it for the season. The tips of the switches light up. The ones that I am selling are a bit different and have the buttons not the switches.

As for the grounding issue. I bought a grounding bar like this one and broke up as much grounding I could and wired it to it.https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Gro...959598&sr=8-22

Steve

[deere_765]

Looks great! How's the push button start work? Any changes you'd make? What's your sale price on the updated switches?

[Seamonsas1]

My 75 year old dad hates the push button start. It feels a little inconsistent. To get it to work we had to do a lot of mods. We added a kill switch and then had to modify an aftermarket push button designed for a car to get it to work. I looks cool and I like it but I would not suggest it. In-fact in the pics (Last pic) that I am showing I rigged it up so that we could use the key so that we could work on other things without having to worry about the push button start.

The panels that I am selling use your existing ignition switch and are a lot more reliable, and they are pretty easy to install if you know what you are doing, but they are kind of labor intensive. I designed the radio panel for a single din radio and forgot about adding the cover. So if you wanted a cover they may take come careful modifications.

I am selling them at cost. It was cheaper to make 6 at once instead of just a 1 off. Cost is $200 for the set of panels. I unfortunately don't have instructions because my set up was so different, but it should be as simple as disconnecting the hots and grounds from the old pan connecting them to the new panel.

[deere_765]

Are you able to send me some pictures of the panels for sale(front and back), or upload them here?

[SilentSeven]

I sorted out the dash on my 97 Ski by adding an ignition switched accessory circuit. This circuit bypassed the factory dash plug harness and I direct powered items like the perfect pass, stereo, accessory/cig plug, etc. I also added a much larger secondary dash ground that again bypassed factory harness. These changes pretty much solved my dash problems. I did have a problem with dash volt meter showing low voltage and @Rileylaker's comments on how the breakers impacted voltage is interesting...could have been my issue. My actual dash voltage tested OK.

Here are a few pictures of the panel I added up high under the dashboard.

Base panel before install. You can see the power wires from the battery feeding the gold non switched bus. The silver bus was ignition switched.



Installed panel under the dash.