Dash Wiring Diagram for 1998 Ski Nautique

[Seamonsas1]

SlientSeven: Nice set up. With our panels we had to add fuses in since the stock switches are breakers/switches. So we have a similar set up underneath, just a lot more complicated with a couple of fuse boxes. We added a large ground bar and ran everything under the dash to it. Figuring the Ohm's law would take care of itself under the dash and only draw what is needed and if I have it properly fused I won't burn anything up. So more flow the better. So far all the systems are running really stable it even lasted through us sinking the boat, and everything (besides the stereo and the push button switch which we had spares) working just fine afterwards.

Deere_766: I will take some pics of the front and back and point out how they are set up some time this week.

[Spudman01]

My 75 year old dad hates the push button start. It feels a little inconsistent. To get it to work we had to do a lot of mods. We added a kill switch and then had to modify an aftermarket push button designed for a car to get it to work. I looks cool and I like it but I would not suggest it. In-fact in the pics (Last pic) that I am showing I rigged it up so that we could use the key so that we could work on other things without having to worry about the push button start.

The panels that I am selling use your existing ignition switch and are a lot more reliable, and they are pretty easy to install if you know what you are doing, but they are kind of labor intensive. I designed the radio panel for a single din radio and forgot about adding the cover. So if you wanted a cover they may take come careful modifications.

I am selling them at cost. It was cheaper to make 6 at once instead of just a 1 off. Cost is $200 for the set of panels. I unfortunately don't have instructions because my set up was so different, but it should be as simple as disconnecting the hots and grounds from the old pan connecting them to the new panel.

I’ve been researching all day trying to do a push button ignition on mine and came across this. I may be interested in buying this from you if you still got them. Is the text already printed? My boats a 93 but I think the panels are the same. I am very well educated on how the dash wiring is, and it makes me mad every time I have to go in and work on it lol.

I see you used a key and push button. I am trying to find a push button that will eliminate the need for the key, but as im sure you know it’s difficult to find one. It needs to be 3 position style (off-ignition-start). Even a rotary switch just without the key would be great. Have you found anything like that?

[Seamonsas1]

Yeah it has been difficult. Here is a link to one that is like what I used but I think would be a lot better. Mine has a Key FOB with it. The Key FOB needs to be a few inches away before it will arm the start sequence. This causes a bunch of issues because it beeps every 10 seconds when it is armed, which is really annoying to have the boat beeping at you when you are powered down and waiting for skiers, and adds inconsistency to the boat starting. This one does not have the Key FOB. What you do trade out for this is the anti-theft of a key. But a boat getting stolen on the water where I am at is not likely.

https://www.amazon.com/EASYGUARD-ES0...74572TMX&psc=1

It is a pretty easy set up with these. The ignition has 5 wires into it. The constant power, the ground, the power to the starter (intermittent), the ACC power, and the run power. I added a kill witch underneath in the cockpit. I ran everything except the clock and the stereo constant power from the kill switch to a fuse panel underneath. Then from the fuses I ran all of the instruments. This is essentially my ACC power (even though the push button start has an ACC setting I found this to be a bit more functional on the boat).

The rest of the push button start is pretty simple. Just connect up the constant power (now from the kill switch), the run power (out), and the power to the starter (out) per the really terrible instructions provided with the push button start. With the kill switch this is all you need push button start to run.

The last trick is to fake out the push button start to think that you are pressing the break. The push button starts are designed for cars, and they are set up to not start until your foot is on the break. They do this by connecting up to your brake lights. So it is quite simple you connect the wire up to a constant power and it will signal to the push button start system that the break lights are on, and then it is ready to start.

I would say this will take you about 2 hours to figure out. But if you have a pretty good handle on it already it will only take 30 minutes.

The panels that I am selling are set up to just swap out the key that you have on your boat already, but this push button start should fit in the same hole. Send me a message if you have any questions.