Complete rebuild of a 2004 SANTE

[JAppler]

I am in the beginning (pricing) stages of a complete rebuild of a boat and I have a couple of questions. Pictures will come once I get the title squared away.

1. Engine Swap: Does it make sense to go with a factory PCM engine, or are there other options (cheaper) out there that are compatible?
2. Can I get rid of the pitot tubes by replacing the gauges (probably completely shot, or does it not really matter if I go with a Stargazer GPS based Perfect Pass? I am on a private lake and have no real need for a speedo if my perfect pass works.. right?
3. I have some minor hull damage to the bow that chipped away the gel coat, and I am wondering which will be a better solution, complete re-gel coat or just fix the small area of damage and repair and seal with clear epoxy (not sure if I can do this or not) but I'm not sure what I'm able to do. I am going to store it on a lift in Florida.
4. I am going to have to pull the floor up to get at the internals etc. and if i do that, will it be worth it to sea dek it?
5. The trailer is well patinaed, but the main members are solid, the tongue portion that controls the surge brakes is not really functioning, do you know if there are replacement portions for this (the entire portion is removable so I figure you can replace it)

Like I said I will post photos once I have the title in hand...

[hal2814]

1. Is it just the long block? You can get marinized long blocks from lots of places. Way back last time I needed a marine long block, I got it from Rapido Marine. That was for a Merc. Not sure if they have your block. There are plenty of other options though.
2. It’ll probably be easier to just plug the tubes if you’re not using them.
3. Sorry, not in my wheelhouse.
4. I personally wouldn’t mess with SeaDek unless I needed to replace the carpet anyway. Just pulling floor panels probably won’t make that any easier.
5. Yes, it’s replaceable. It may even be serviceable depending on the model of actuator.

[Neptune442]

3. I just finished repairing similar gouges to the hull of mine that accumulated over time. For chips/gouges on the sides of the hull that were visible when trailering/etc, I used color-matched Spectrum gelcoat kits. For the underside along the keel/V shape, I used MarineTex. After wet sanding and buffing, it all turned out great.

[JAppler]

Thank you, Neptune and hal for the responses.

Hal, it is a 330 Excaliber, not sure if it's a long block or not. A secondary question is with the PP actuator work with the motor or does the actuator simple work with the PP GPS and the cable is just a simple cable. (meaning do the newer crate motors only work on the fly by wire, not the old school metal wire) I know I'm over thinking it, but figured I'd ask because this place knows everything, or at least I'm sure I can find a person who says they do. HA.

Thanks again!

[hal2814]

Fly by wire isn’t determined by the block. It’s determined by the intake system. The same block could by fly by wire or cable actuated. It could even be carbureted. I was asking what you had to work with. If it’s an empty engine bay there’s a lot of stuff you’ll have to replace. If it’s just a non-working engine then you won’t have as much to replace but a lot more work ahead of you troubleshooting what is there.

[JAppler]

Hal, it's a nonworking engine, but its been sitting out for a couple of years with the block and half the head pulled off, I think there is actually a nest in part of the exhaust pipe. So I'm thinking of a full replacement to give me a motor I know will work and has a warranty. I haven't taken it to a mechanic yet but I'm open to ideas.